Why did I need a boost?

[jasondmann]

I've got a unique situation with my truck. The other day after having driven on the highway for about 2hrs I parked it of about 1hr. When I went to start it the engine cranked very slowly, I proceeded to drain the batterys while trying to start it then got CAA to boost me, started no problem. I drove for another hour after the boost and then parked it for a few days. Went out tonight to take a look at it and it fired up no problem (it was plugged in, block heater and two battery blankets). I went for a drive and the voltage is at 14V on the dash. I was thinking of checking voltage with a meeter off the alternator and checking my battery cables (including ground straps and down to starter).

It has been very cold here recently (-30C) but it has always started good when plugged in and has been fine for at least 2 or 3 hours after runing and I run 0w30. The glow plugs are good, I did a resistance test. The batteries are brand new last weekend, same brand and model. Don't ask me my cranking speed because my tach doesn't work.

Am I missing something obvious, could it be the starter, or maybe just a fluke? Thanks for your help.
Jason

[Hubert]

Side post terminals are questionalbe in old age and a common problem on these trucks. Double and triple check them. Passanger side postive post has a spacer that needs to be removed and cleaned both sides it also works loose occasionally. Grounds are problematic on the truck too. You almost have to be fanatical about side posts to be sure of good connectivity in old age. Have you seen or read of the stud conversion plan?

[rustyk]

Yep - a quick-and dirty test is to turn on the headlights and crank it - if the headlights dim a great bit, it's usually battery posts (or other large-gage wire connections).

[xtrempickup]

0w30>? arent diesel trucks supposed to be running a minimum of 15W40

[rustyk]

0W/30 is marginally OK if there are cold-cranking issues at low temps (such as those he's enduring; if it were I, I'd try 10W/40. One thing that keeps the 0W/30 from being an issue is that when an engine warms up and is running at road RPM, the lube requirements are less than at idle.

But I agree - 15W/40 is to be used unless, as I mentioned, cold-cranking problems ensue, but then the suggested remedy is a block heater, not changing to a lower-vis oil.

[97-6.5TD-F]

I find my 6.5 cools off very quickly when its -30c :rolleyes:.

The first thing I would test is the batterys, as when its that cold battery performance drops signifigantly. To test them properly you have to separate them from each other. Another thing to keep in mind is that when your batteries become discharged the acid basically becomes water and once that freezes, they are toast.

If the batts check out I would perform a starter draw test to see if it is the culprit. I have gone through 2 starters on my 97 in 100k km. Of course a good visual of the cables is always a good idea also.

I run 0w40 in mine, basically the standard for this time of year up here. The new fords burn (lol) 10w30 now in there new 6.4l diesel.

[jasondmann]

Thanks for all the replies. I see that one typing mistake caused a lot of discussion. I actually run 0w40 oil, fully synthetic Shell Rotella.

Well like I said the batteries are new, I checked all the connections again and they are fine, I did not check the connections at the battery though. The alternator is charging fine, 14.68V@idle. there is no parasitic (sp) losses when the truck isn't running.

The truck has been running fine for the last couple of days, I've only been shutting it off at home, just in case. I wonder if maybe it was colder than I thought and after cycling the glow plugs a few times I just didn't have enough juice.

Jason.

ps: I am familiar with how to convert to top post connections but unfortunately these new batteries are only side mount.

[Hubert]

OK but keep in mind the side posts can fool you. I missed the spacer between the passenger side. I gently try to tightening up side post connections but worry I am going to strip them. Its not a top post conversion. Its a tip somewhere on the page and also other websites to make a stud bottom it out in battery then use a jam nut to set it. It helps catch a couple more threads in the battery. Then stack on washers terminals washers and nuts as desired. Smear on petrolatum to avoid corrosion.

Can also run extra grounds to either frame, body, or engine from each battery.