Cold weather problems

[ckt]

I have an 06 lbz. Over the last week I have had problems when it reaches -10 or so. The engine cuts out and the cel comes on. I had been running #2 with stanadyne addative. The first time it happened, I warmed the truck up good and it snapped out of it. I then topped off the tank with #1 and added more addative. The next day it happened again and so I warmed the truck up in the shop overnight and changed the fuel filter, and also added more addative and topped off the tank again with #1. The next few days were good, until last night when it reached -15. Same problem. Any suggestions?

[DieselMonk]

change the filter again? Get the codes read and post it.

[Mark Rinker]

Are you running the winter front? Get #1 in it for this severe weather.

[Todd T]

I'm appalled GM owners put up with this.

Folks we shouldnt have to run $30 worth of additive in our tanks just to keep the trucks running in cold weather. Its a poorly designed fuel system that stems from filters which are exceeding the cold filter plugging point of fuel especially now with 10-15% bio at most pumps.

They need to redsign the filter to not be so restrictive or better yet, put a preheater in our existing filter bases.

I refuse to do it. I just park it, call the dealer and squeal as loud as I can everytime my truck goes into limp mode in cold weather. If the problem is not presented to GM everytime we have it, then all is well...........for them.

[lb7lbz]

all gm owners do not put up with this. i have an 01 with over 200,000 miles and have never had it gell on me,and yes it gets cold in maine. in fact i've traveled in 40 below before,as far as my lbz goes the coldest it has been here since i bought the truck is 10 below and no problems. I'd check your fuel source

[Duramaster]

Sounds like you need to do some shopping for you additive. $10 for the Stanadyne performance formula in the 16 oz bottle. ;)

[linchhummmer]

waxing can happen to any diesel its not gm's fault its yours for not running winterized diesel

[chessy56]

I dealt with something similar to your problem not too far back. My local dealer tech mentioned that 99% of the time the problem lies in the filter- they can plug up fast in cold weather and any moisture will add to the problems. There will not be enough moisture to set off the water-in-fuel indication (you've got to be "swamped" for the float to rise to that level). If you can see crystalized water on the top of the filter after spinning it off, you'll have problems.

I can't speak to the bio fuels- haven't had the stones to try that stuff yet. I run Power Service in my fuel (white jug, not the silver jug) and it appears to help. The heater element in the filter head is tiny however (it's a wonder it works to help keep the fuel above the gelling point, if at all). This leads to Todd's point regarding something more substantial for a fuel heater which may not be a bad idea.

Given some of the posts I read a year or two back regarding the need to filter the begeezes out of the fuel, for fear of degrading the injectors, I'd rather not use a larger micron filtration. Besides, as the filter gets dirtier, smaller and smaller particulate is trapped (until it ultimately gets really plugged!).

Once I replaced my filter and got some blended winter fuel, I've had no other problems with gelling and it's around -10 in my parts of S.E. Wisconsion about now. Good Luck!!!

[ckt]

Would you guys say that using stanadyne addative and straight #2 diesel fuel is not enough protection against gelling?? My understanding was that addative used with #2 was adequate. Do I still need to blend some #1 in there??

[DmaxMaverick]

No. You do not need to add #1. You can, and it will help when nothing else does. Depending on where you get your fuel, it may already have a % of #1 in it. It is cheaper than adding additives (to the supplier), but your mileage will suffer. The lubricity is lower than #2 ULSD, so you should still use an additive or other lubrication solution. Many suppliers of #1 are not certifying it ULSD, so the PPM sulfur may be a problem for the latest engines.

I haven't heard much good about Stanadyne cold weather protection. There are others that are proven, such as FPPF and PowerService. Straight #2 with the right amount (not too much or too little, read the label) of a good additive should protect your fuel down to -40°F.

Another thing that can help is using the block heater, and allow a longer pre-start cycle, to allow the filter heater a chance to get warmed up before cranking. Turn on the key and wait for the WTS lamp to go out. Cycle the key off, then on, to repeat. Any truck with a healthy starting system won't have a problem with this. The winter front cover and blocking the fuel cooler will go a long way to prevent issues after you get started. And, letting the truck warm up (use high idle, or your foot) a little before driving off will keep the fuel flow volume low, long enough to get the system warmed up.

[Gapper_ca]

well it reached -40 over night and then during the drive to work wind chill put it at -51. no problems at all. i run a stainless winter front insert. the GM one would be better but at $500 + a little sttep for me. i run winter diesel and use Plus4 additive from DSG. not the winter stuff tho as i run winter fuel. No problems at all , same as with my 6.5l TD best thing is to plug the truck in for at 4 hrs and let it warm up for 10-15 minutes then to drive slowly for the first few miles letting engine and trans warm up. only time i have seen any diesel freeze up is when they have summer fuel in the filters and tank and can not get the anti-gel thru the system fast enough. then big problems...