Finally Got My BURB Back

[DA BIG ONE]

Well, I have it back after that accident on 3 July. The body work is not that great, but at a glance its ok I guess. The entire front end suspension, diff case, are new, nerf bars instead of the running boards which it came with, new motor mounts, etc.

I found that the drivers side torque bar is slightly bent and the tension adjuster x-member are slightly damaged. The shop owner says he will pull the x-member but the bar is ok. Question: Should I consider the bent bar ok, and if not, should both be changed out?

I have a transfer case problem now, "a whine sound when in 4wd". This problem is new, and I was told it is because the tow truck pulled it on hooks with the rear wheels on the ground without putting the transfer case in neutral, and causing lockup, then causing tires to spin on the rims (confirmed by tire dealer who did a high speed balance the day before the accident). Insurance company says make another claim because the tow company did the damage after the accident. Question: What else should I be looking at as far as potential damage?

[MTTwister]

"I found that the drivers side torque bar is slightly bent and the tension adjuster x-member are slightly damaged. The shop owner says he will pull the x-member but the bar is ok. Question: Should I consider the bent bar ok, and if not, should both be changed out?"

I would definitely require a new torsion bar - Rather critical component to holding up the front end - Nicked - bent = potential failure.
Too bad not very many do quality work anymore.

Good luck - esp with the transfer case - sounds like another screw-up.

[fogg65td]

I run a tow truck for a living and the correct towing procedure would be to have the transfer case in 2 hi and the transmission in neutral and the rear wheels on the ground or in 2 hi and the front wheels on the ground. I doubt that the tires could spin on the rim and would most likley lock up and just drag the tires. Experience would tell me that the damage was most likely not caused by the towing company as that is often the first places that people look to put blame on, tho its not unheard of. Alot of time i end up showing the customer the procedure that i used. And they understand that we didn't cause the damage. we prob get 2 or 3 complaints a month and but once shown what we did they realize it wasn't us. As a tower i think ive got a bad image but its only a small few that actually operate that way. I don't know how hard your burb got hit but often there is driveline damage in major accidents that is overlooked. the initial impact does alot of flexing of the drivline that can not be scene. hope i was a help.

[JoeyD]

If the crossmember is bent they should replace it, they probably got paid to do it. The T bar needs to be replaced as it will end up breaking. It sounds like you should contact your insurance company about the shop. If the work is crap and not correct they will want to know.

[DA BIG ONE]

Originally posted by fogg65td:
I run a tow truck for a living and the correct towing procedure would be to have the transfer case in 2 hi and the transmission in neutral and the rear wheels on the ground or in 2 hi and the front wheels on the ground. I doubt that the tires could spin on the rim and would most likley lock up and just drag the tires. Experience would tell me that the damage was most likely not caused by the towing company as that is often the first places that people look to put blame on, tho its not unheard of. Alot of time i end up showing the customer the procedure that i used. And they understand that we didn't cause the damage. we prob get 2 or 3 complaints a month and but once shown what we did they realize it wasn't us. As a tower i think ive got a bad image but its only a small few that actually operate that way. I don't know how hard your burb got hit but often there is driveline damage in major accidents that is overlooked. the initial impact does alot of flexing of the drivline that can not be scene. hope i was a help. The owners manual states that the transfer case must be in neutral to tow on a hook no matter what, so, now I wonder if the manual maybe wrong, or?

I guess the tire guy could be blowing smoke up my __s, just so I pay to have the balance redone, anyones guess now.

[DA BIG ONE]

Originally posted by Joey D:
If the crossmember is bent they should replace it, they probably got paid to do it. The T bar needs to be replaced as it will end up breaking. It sounds like you should contact your insurance company about the shop. If the work is crap and not correct they will want to know. The more I examine the work, the more I get pi__ed off, insurance company here I come..

[fogg65td]

The towin g procedure must be incorrect in the manual, my towing manual states different and ive been towing them my way 4 years. Even my own truck and i doubt the surburbans are different. If either your t bar and crossmember got bent they would need to be replaced and your insurance should pay cause that causes a safety issue and they wouldn't want to be held responsibel for that.

[ttpost]

how far did they tow it? when i used to drive tow truck if it was over 5 miles we either pulled the driveline or put them on dollies. you have the right to have any part that was damaged on the vehicle to be replaced. i also heard something about insurance must reimburse you for lost value of the the truck due to being rebuilt. i cant remember the name of the term but you might want to check into it good luck

[DA BIG ONE]

The transfer case is the NP 246 and has 5 positions: 2 HI, AUTO 4WD, 4 HI, 4 LOW, and N, and the manual says mus be in N to tow.

Now my tranny guy says that the tranny may be damaged too, something about towing it in gear will spin the tranny and damage the planitary gears, or, because, something about the tranny fluid will not pump through it while being towed?

[fogg65td]

i think i might be wrong with that transfer case, it might have to be in neutral. I think thats one of those gray areas, beacuse of them being so few made. don't they usually only have 2 hi, 4 hi and 4 low and maybe a neutral depending on the if its eletronic shift or shift on the floor. My guess is cause of the auto feature something is different. I tow my 98 all over and am having my first tranny problems at 150k and with all the plowing and towing i do i got more than expected.

[DA BIG ONE]

Originally posted by fogg65td:
My guess is cause of the auto feature something is different. The auto 4wd feature engages the front diff, but not the transfer case, then uses driveshaft speed sensors front shaft and back shaft to sense loss of traction, when loss of traction is detected (a difference in speed reading between the 2 sensors)a dry clutch engages the transfer case to 4wd HI.

Shifts at any speed via push buttons for 2 HI, AUTO 4WD, & 4 HI, must be 3 mph or slower to shift to 4 LOW.

[TurboDiverArt]

Originally posted by fogg65td:
The towin g procedure must be incorrect in the manual, my towing manual states different and ive been towing them my way 4 years. Even my own truck and i doubt the surburbans are different. If either your t bar and crossmember got bent they would need to be replaced and your insurance should pay cause that causes a safety issue and they wouldn't want to be held responsibel for that. I'd have to re-read my manual but I also believe that it states putting the truck in neutral before towing. Maybe it's got something to do with the electronic Auto 4WD option?

[TurboDiverArt]

Originally posted by DA BIG ONE:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by fogg65td:
My guess is cause of the auto feature something is different. The auto 4wd feature engages the front diff, but not the transfer case, then uses driveshaft speed sensors front shaft and back shaft to sense loss of traction, when loss of traction is detected (a difference in speed reading between the 2 sensors)a dry clutch engages the transfer case to 4wd HI.

Shifts at any speed via push buttons for 2 HI, AUTO 4WD, & 4 HI, must be 3 mph or slower to shift to 4 LOW. </font>[/QUOTE]Correct. I don't think you "have" to be going slowed that 3 MPH to engage 4lo but the manual stated (from memory) that shifting at a higher speed could cause damage. I only used the 4lo once when backing up a trailer on web grass up a slight hill. No problems but I did have to get out the manual to get it out of 4lo. I wasn't putting the transmission in neutral to get it out. I couldn't seem to shift out when the truck was in drive.

[DA BIG ONE]

Well, I have found this t-case rebuilt w/core is $798.+ labor, new is $998 not bad considering the cost of a rebuild on the 4L80E @ something like $3k. Then there is the wear and tear factor I am sure the insurance company will enforce.

Big PITA, but finding another 1999 SUB 2500 HD 6.5 TD 4WD would be a bigger PITA.

[fogg65td]

The electronic auto 4wd makes the difference. Those can't be towed with wheels on the ground. The other ones can be towed as long as the transfer case is in 2 hi and tranny is in neutral. Thats what i figgured out by talkin to some other guys in the area. Prob one option that is easy to overlook.

[DA BIG ONE]

Originally posted by fogg65td:
The electronic auto 4wd makes the difference. Those can't be towed with wheels on the ground. The other ones can be towed as long as the transfer case is in 2 hi and tranny is in neutral. Thats what i figgured out by talkin to some other guys in the area. Prob one option that is easy to overlook. Thanks for the input.

I am going to file another claim for the drive train damage and hope for the best.

I now have a bad leak in the oil cooling lines, going to clean that area up and examine it. If I remember correctly someone stated the oil cooler lines can be a problem anyway, something about hard lines cracking. This burb looks like it has sections of soft hose between the cooler and the adapter so I am wondering if this is the type that fails anyway, or?

[TurboDiverArt]

Originally posted by DA BIG ONE:
[QUOTE]
Thanks for the input.

I now have a bad leak in the oil cooling lines, going to clean that area up and examine it. If I remember correctly someone stated the oil cooler lines can be a problem anyway, something about hard lines cracking. This burb looks like it has sections of soft hose between the cooler and the adapter so I am wondering if this is the type that fails anyway, or? Do a search. There is an article out there titled something like "the last oil lines you'll buy" or something like that. Basically you take the hoses off. Cut off the metal constriction crimps and old hose. You're left basically with a nipple hose end. Insert your favorite high-pressure line and put on double hose clamps and you're done.

Art.

[DA BIG ONE]

Originally posted by TurboDiverArt:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by DA BIG ONE:


Thanks for the input.

I now have a bad leak in the oil cooling lines, going to clean that area up and examine it. If I remember correctly someone stated the oil cooler lines can be a problem anyway, something about hard lines cracking. This burb looks like it has sections of soft hose between the cooler and the adapter so I am wondering if this is the type that fails anyway, or? Do a search. There is an article out there titled something like "the last oil lines you'll buy" or something like that. Basically you take the hoses off. Cut off the metal constriction crimps and old hose. You're left basically with a nipple hose end. Insert your favorite high-pressure line and put on double hose clamps and you're done.

Art. </font>Well thank you for this one, I will apply it!

[Diesel Dan]

Regarding towing information.
Just checked both manuals for my '99 S-blazer and '00 crew cab. The manual on the blazer states that electronic t-cases using sling style lift needs the other set of wheels off the ground.

Both manuals state that manual shift t-cases be towed in NEUTRAL. It does not state trans position but I would recommend the trans in park or manual in gear. When towing from the front unlimited distance at whatever legal speedlimit.

Here is the reason for the t-case in neutral. The t-case has an oil pump that is driven by the output shaft, so when being towed in neutral it will still recieve proper lube to the gears. If the t-case is left in gear and the trans in neutral the output of the trans will turn, without lubrication. The oil pump of the transmission is on the input shaft, not the output. This is how damage to the trans can occur, lack of lubrication.