industrial injection turbos lb7

[linchhummmer]

has any one heard anything about the industrial injection turbos for the lb7's

[Jake99Z71]

Yeah, the Silver Bullet.

[linchhummmer]

dose anyone have one what kinda boost dose it put out what is the power range
dose it spool up fast

[Jake99Z71]

It spools faster than stock. Once lit watch out the truck won't be going straight down the road. Runs upward of 50-55psi depending on the tune and fuel system. Supports around 600hp at the rear wheels.

[linchhummmer]

do you have a 62 or 64

[Jake99Z71]

I think both of them are the 64mm.

[linchhummmer]

did you have to buy direct

[Kennedy]

linchhummer,

Send me the Boost valve and I'll check it out. They absolutely DO work.

What are you seeing for boost and what are you using for a gauge?



02 lb7 two stage k&n with afe filter, thermo tech, hot edge with attitude, 75 ddp injectors, ats protorque propane, bd manifold, mbrp, ats waterboy, 150 fass, tie rod end sleeves, and a Kennedy diesel boost valve that doesn't do anything

[linchhummmer]

i bought the boost valve from yall in i think December of last year once i got it i threw it on my truck with the arrow facing the wastegate before i put it on i was getting about 22 pounds in hot #6 on my edge chip reading the pressure from my edge gauge and from my ats boost gauge (tapped into the compressor housing) after i put it on i was getting the same 22 psi so i screwed the two ends together which did nothing. i then called yall and you said that you hadn't had that problem and that if i had put it on backwards it would be building too much boost you said maby it wasn't getting enough fuel. so i changed the fuel filter and cleaned the air filter and tried again getting the same results. i then called again and could not get anyone to call me back about. so then i took the boost valve and turned it backwards and pluged the hole at the end with a piece of a welding rod that fit the hole. it prity much it just acts as a plug and the wastegate is inactive my fix builds about 35 pounds of boost but i could have just bought a .35 cent plug. i have heard very good reviews from friends but ive had no luck. Scott Osborne

[DickWells]

:)Scott - Just read J K's post on the Advertiser's Forum. You might want to go there if you haven't already done so. Makes me realize how un-important my diesel issues are. I called John last summer with a programer question, not having read that post. I'm surprised that he can function at all with all that stress.
FWIW, D W

[linchhummmer]

thanks jake that explains a lot and now i know why he dosent have the
Diesel Pull Off 2005+

[Jimmie J]

I was interested in hearing of someone else having a low boost issue wither their LB7. I have a 2001 GMC LB7 and was considering adding one of John’s boost valves too. After visiting his site I thought I would take his advice and add a boost gauge and while I was at it I might as well see what it was doing stock. Sorry, I don’t want to ramble… long story short, stock I am lucky to see 4 to 5 pounds under normal flat land driving and 7 to 10 if I am over ½ throttle going up hill at 2,300 RPM. So I decide to do a short test dive with the hose disconnected and plugged. That only gave me about 5 to 7 pounds light throttle but 15 to 20 on the same hill test. Wow what a difference but how would you ever get it to boost the bottom end and what is a safe top limit? I have read that you can peak to 25 to 30 without problems. And if you can peak to 25 to 30 why do I need one of John’s boost valve? I can’t get near that for some reason. I am still running stock exhaust and stock intake. Does this seem normal? I have pressure checked the gauge and it is on the money.

Thanks for the input!

[linchhummmer]

I was interested in hearing of someone else having a low boost issue wither their LB7. I have a 2001 GMC LB7 and was considering adding one of John’s boost valves too. After visiting his site I thought I would take his advice and add a boost gauge and while I was at it I might as well see what it was doing stock. Sorry, I don’t want to ramble… long story short, stock I am lucky to see 4 to 5 pounds under normal flat land driving and 7 to 10 if I am over ½ throttle going up hill at 2,300 RPM. So I decide to do a short test dive with the hose disconnected and plugged. That only gave me about 5 to 7 pounds light throttle but 15 to 20 on the same hill test. Wow what a difference but how would you ever get it to boost the bottom end and what is a safe top limit? I have read that you can peak to 25 to 30 without problems. And if you can peak to 25 to 30 why do I need one of John’s boost valve? I can’t get near that for some reason. I am still running stock exhaust and stock intake. Does this seem normal? I have pressure checked the gauge and it is on the moneyThanks for the input!

ill sell you one for half whatever he sells his for its a kd boost valve

[More Power]

There are two forces acting on the wastegate valve located in the turbocharger's exhaust housing. Those two forces are boost pressure via the wastegate actuator and turbine drive pressure. Turbine drive pressure is the exhaust backpressure developed as the engine's exhaust is forced through the turbine. Drive pressure can approach 2 or more times the level of boost pressure developed.

As the engine is put under load, both turbine drive pressure and boost pressure rise. These forces are each trying to compress the spring in the wastegate actuator and open the wastegate.

A boost valve prevents boost pressure from reaching the wastegate actuator till that pressure reaches whatever pre-set value the boost valve is set to. So, when equipped with a boost valve, the only force trying to open the wastegate is turbine drive pressure, up to a point. A boost valve allows the turbocharger's wastegate to remain closed until the pre-set maximum boost pressure is achieved. Then, it'll allow the wastegate to open.

Depending on how the valve is calibrated, it allows the max boost pressure developed by the turbocharger to build quicker and somewhat higher, depending on the preset adjustment. I've seen this on the two engines I've experimented with.

I've heard of a few factory turbochargers grenading when using a wired-shut actuator, which produced a max boost pressure at or near 40-psi. I limit mine to 35. On Lil Red, I also have a Banks Big Head adjustable actuator. On this truck, simply adding a boost valve allowed a quicker and more predictable boost response, and it increased max boost pressure a couple of psi. This is a 600+ rwhp truck that is running the factory turbo.

Just driving around unloaded in normal and legal fashion, you'll not likely see any difference when installing a boost valve, and I wouldn't recommend one for that type of truck use. A boost valve benefits those who use a power product and tow moderate to heavy or for competition.

Jim

[Kennedy]

One BIG key to remember here:

ALWAYS tune your boost with the largest tune available, and when it stops gaining stop adjusting. Unhooking teh wastegate or turning up the valve beyond regular gains may not hurt you, but if you add more fuel, the boost will likely go up.

I have quite a few of these valves out there, and I know and my customers know that they work. The valve in question works as I checked it myself. Unfortunately, the owner feels that it does not work and it looks like he wants to tell the world in his signature...

[DmaxMaverick]

ill sell you one for half whatever he sells his for its a kd boost valve

I'd jump on that deal, unless it's been modified or damaged in any way.

[Jimmie J]

Thanks for the input! I think we are getting a little off track though. I wasn’t asking if the Kennedy boost valve works, I see the principal behind it. My big question was if it is normal for a stock LB7 to be incapable of producing more than 25 pounds of boost and what would be a safe cut-off point for the boost. Remember I unhooked the hose from the actuator and plugged it so I didn’t lose any boost and tried driving tests and could not produce more than 22 to 25 pounds under any condition. I’m even talking about flat out 4 mins of pedal to the floor on a 15% grade and then only to about 23 pounds and had made it through all of the gears and hit 80+ mph.

I this normal stock? I am not looking for more performance just maximum efficiency for max MPG.

If I go to a bigger exhaust do you think that would increase turbo performance? If it did I would absolutely want a boost valve installed, I just can’t get it near the danger zone on it’s own!

Thanks,

Jimmie

[Kennedy]

If you have stock fueling then that is likely all teh "huff" that you have. Adding a chip will help drive the turbo. At a point you will likely set a code for going too far if you don't have proper tuning though.

[linchhummmer]

I'd jump on that deal, unless it's been modified or damaged in any way.

like john said it works just fine and is good as new ill sell it for 47.50 plus whatever it costs for shipping.

[DmaxMaverick]

like john said it works just fine and is good as new ill sell it for 47.50 plus whatever it costs for shipping.

Sold. PM or email me an address and shipping amount.

[Kennedy]

like john said it works just fine and is good as new ill sell it for 47.50 plus whatever it costs for shipping.

and a Kennedy diesel boost valve that doesn't do anything
:rolleyes:

[DmaxMaverick]

and a Kennedy diesel boost valve that doesn't do anything
:rolleyes:

I dunno. I just need to know the total and where to send the check. Maybe he wasn't serious? I am.

[DmaxMaverick]

Well, he was serious. I received the KD boost valve in like new condition. Thanks Linchhummmer.

I put it through a rigorous and thorough test. It worked perfectly, as advertised. Details of my test procedure and results are available upon request. The end result was very pleasing, and surprising. My boost gage goes up to 30 PSI, and with the valve at full adjustment, the boost was rocketing past that in a hurry. However, at stock fuel levels, there was almost no discernible gains I could tell. Perhaps a little, but it could easily have been within a margin of error, and due to changing conditions. Adding fuel was the key, and had profound results. An added benefit was, as the boost climbed quicker, EGT's climbed slower. A very nice side effect.

Although this little, unimpressive looking device is quite expensive for what it appears to be, it delivers in a big way. It's probably one of the best investments a you can make, if your goal is to increase available boost, beyond what your fueling programmer or box provides. I would have had one long ago, if I wasn't turned off by the price and appearance. Had I known then what I know now..........

[Mark Rinker]

The combination of JK's tune on my 2002 LB7 and the boost valve have produced the best overall towing mileage numbers of all 5 Duramax powered trucks I've owned. 275K miles of daily towing and winter snow plowing - under 1500 miles per year (up to deer camp and south to pheasant hunt) unhooked from the trailer. The combo simply rocks, and saves $$$ each tankful.

It takes more fueling to see the boost valve function propertly. It was very valuable in tuning diesel/propane/air mixtures on my previous 2001 - where 28-32psi nominal under fully loaded towing was commonplace...:eek:...with only 1200 peak egts, 900-1000 nominal.

That truck would pull 12K# of boat and trailer straight up, if you could find a road that steep... :)

[Kennedy]

Thanks for the heads up. Unfortunately, he'll probably keep the negativity in his signature...

[Kennedy]

Just disappointed that someone would publicly condemn a fully functional (and mfr inspected/tested) product without testing on another vehicle.

Oh well, Dmax Mav got a heck of a deal...

[SoTxPollock]

Just goes to prove you can please some of the people, all of the time. You can please All of the people some of the time, but you can't please all of the people all of the time.