HEATH DIESEL - Turbo-Master MODEL GM96 Boost Control

[Jochen Woern]

Hello,

I am in the process of getting the HEATH DIESEL MAX-E-TORK PCM Upgrade together with the HEATH DIESEL TURBO-MASTER.

- Have any of you installed the HEATH Turbo-Master on your 6.5's and does anyone have any pictures as well as installation instructions?

- Is the installation pretty easy, fairly sinmple?

Below is the Product Description as well as Part Number off of the HEATH DIESEL Website.

Many thanks in advance.

The factory vacume operated turbocharger control system on these 6.5's is not a good one. Designed to alternately apply then release the vacume signal, the system causes the turbocharger to continually speed up then slow down which results in fluctuating boost output pressure. The system is powered by a failure prone vacume pump which is known to lock up and ruin the serpentine drive belt. These failures seldom happen in the garage.

The Turbo-Master Model GM96 is a simple, bolt on replacement for the troublesome factory setup. It combines with the turbocharger waste gate valve to create a smooth working, fully adjustable turbine inlet pressure (drive pressure) relief valve system. Up to the point of bypass, this system retains precious turbine inlet pressure to drive the turbocharger resulting in a vastly improved turbocharger performance. The engine appreciates the nice steady boost pressure and responds with improved driveablity even without other modifications.

The Turbo-Master is the perfect companion to our Max-E-Tork re-programmed ECM. The two will transform your 6.5.

Not recommended for use with the factory computer programming.


Brand: HDP Performance
HDP Part Number: #HDP1246

[DennisG01]

It's an extremely easy thing to do and it comes with a good set of instructions. Don't over think this one - it's really just as easy as it looks.

If you don't want to get rid of the vacuum system, Kennedy sells a very nice plug-n-play boost fooler. He also can program his ECM so you don't need any extra boost things (other than the stock vacuum system). Both companies have good programs for their re-flashed ECM's (and personally these are the only two I considered). I would suggest you actually talk to both and make up your mind based on those conversations, not just what some of us will say.

[Kenneth]

I have Heath's turbomaster on my 94. My vacuum system was going bad so I just took out the pump and installed the turbomaster. It took me about 15 min to install. I am happy with it. I do agree with DennisG01 that if you want to keep your vacuum system talk to Kennedy. Both Kennedy and Heath are the best for chips or a reflash. Talk to them both and comapre the costs. I think Heath sells good quality products and I am happy with my turbomaster.

[Robyn]

I have the turbo mastewr on my 3500 Dually
Its simple and works great.

The adjustment is such that a simple twist of a wrench will adjust the boost pressure to the desired level within the range of the fuel charge being delivered.

I would not return to the vacuum system on a bet.

The vacuum system is probably the best solution for a factory rig thats being used by basic drivers that dont understand anything about whats under the hood.

My estimation of the vacuum system is that its too much complexity to do a job that a little spring can do..

Bes
Robyn

[Davis]

I agree with the other members. I have a turbo master and the Max E Torq chip on my 94 C3500. It was a straight foward install. It works very well and you will not loose boost when you need it like during a hard pull or passing. My vac pump went out so I removed it and installed a belt for a 93 truck and works just fine and a lot less costly.The 92 and 93 6.5`s did not have vac pumps. Good luck. Davis

[Mark Rinker]

Vacuum system: One purpose on the 6.5L diesel. Wastegate control.

Potential points of failure or maintenance: 4. Vacuum pump, lines, actuator at wastegate, solenoid that interprets ECM signals and converts to vacuum 'pulses'.

Heath system, points of failure: 1. Spring.

My opinion? Remove and trash with great prejudice all vacuum related JUNK from under the hood, use the TurboMaster, and replace your serpentine belt with the shorter '93 version. Done! Forever. No more troubleshoot boost related issues unless the turbo pukes.

Diesels shouldn't make vaccuum under their hoods. Its just wrong. I think the same idiot that designed the 6.5L vacuum controlled wastegate system got kicked out of the Camaro division after designing the vaccuum underhood controls on the 1979 and 1980 Z-28s...

[Jochen Woern]

Ok, so if I understood all of you correctly, you are saying the following:

- HEATH Turbo Master is recommended.
- Installation is easy.
- Remove the Vaccum Pump and install the Turbo Master instead.

DID I GET ALL THIS CORRECTLY? IS IT DIFFICULT TO REMOVE THE PUMP OR IS THIS ALSO CLEARLY DISCRIBED IN BILL HEATH'S INSTRUCTIONS?

Do I need any other parts or just the Turbo Master? How easy is it to adjust the spring on the Turbo Master, how will I know when I have the correct setting?

Thanks all

[Kenneth]

Heath sends pretty good instructions with the kit that tell you how to set the spring for certain boost settings but they do not tell you how to remove the vacuum pump. My vacuum pump was not hard to remove, it just took a little time. Although, your pump may mount differently than mine because your's is a 96. IIRC from 94-96.5 the a/c compressor is directly above the vacuum pump while the 96.5-2000 models have the alternator above the vacuum pump.



- HEATH Turbo Master is recommended.
- Installation is easy.
- Remove the Vaccum Pump and install the Turbo Master instead.


Yes. Like I said before it took me all of about 15 to completely install the turbomaster. I didn't remove the vacuum pump until it was time to replace my serpentine belt, then I installed a 93 belt.

If you are getting the maq E torque with the turbomaster then you should set the spring to approximately 2" to get around 12 psi of boost (I would not set the boost anymore than 12 psi unless you have a intercooler). The 2" is just a starting point. Watch your boost guage on hard uphilll pulls and you can fine tune it from there. Read the instructions you get from Heath. They are well explained and the installation and tunning are easy.

Hope this helps.

[Mark Rinker]

Also, you can leave the vaccum pump in place - you don't have to remove it as part of the installation, it simpy serves no purpose after the TurboMaster is installed.

[Jochen Woern]

Thank you all very kindly.

[Jim Faire]

Is your engine an "F" or an "S" ?

The vacuum pump also rund the EGR system, which the "S" engines are equipped with, and if you simply remove the vacuum pump without dealing with that, you'll get lots of codes about a failed EGR.

As was mentioned, you can also leave the vacuum pump in place, plug the wastegate vacuum hose, and leave the EGR system plugged in until you figure out how to remove it and get an "F" reflash and intake.

[97-6.5TD-F]

Good point, I will mention that I have my 97 K1500 converted to an F computer, deleting the egr and maf. was as easy as swapping the computer for a 3/4 ton F model, then unplugging/removing the maf and egr systems. My check engine light is never on anymore!

Btw, keep us posted as to how you like the Max-Etork kit. I am seriously thinking about buying the kit with the comp, ho injectors and turbomaster, and would like to hear some real results before i drop the cash! Thanks!

[Jochen Woern]

And how would I find out if I have the "S" or "F" engine?

[DmaxMaverick]

And how would I find out if I have the "S" or "F" engine?

It's the 8th digit of your VIN.

[Jochen Woern]

Thanks very much.

Just checked the VIN # and mine is an "F" engine, so I should not have a problem, right?

[Kenneth]

Yes, if you have vin F you don't have anything to worry about. My 94 is a vin F. All the vin F means is that you have an L65 motor, which is the heavy duty emissions, which means you don't have an egr.

So, like mentioned before, you can leave your vacuum pump on until you have time to remove it and replace the belt with the 93 belt (shorter). I left my pump on for about 3 or 4 months before I removed it. Just make sure you plug the vacuum line with the plastic ball that Heath supplies in the kit.

The whole process is very simple. good luck and let us know how the chip/reflash is. I am looking into Heath and Kennedy when I get my chip and am interested in your results.