hydraulic clutch maintenance

[Hubert]

97 K2500 5spd.
I recently had a problem with my clutch not disengaging. I bled it a little and seems to have cured the problem for now.

I was reading another thread and someone said you should drain the clutch fluid (and brake fluid every 3 years) - said brake fluid is hygroscopic (I am not sure exactly what that means but I take it water will build in system and cause problems).

I asked one mechanic yesterday after I had bled some crappy fluid out and he said he would not recommend draining the system its hard to get all the air out.

So looking for others opinions. And what is the best way to change the clutch fluid if I should.

[RCourtney]

Hubert -
I was going to try and do mine today, but I think I'll wait a while to see if you get any replies. I was thinking of trying the DOT 4 fluid if I can find it, since DOT 5 seems to be a bad idea. As far as getting the air out after changing - here's what my 1995 Helms Service Manual says about "Hydraulic Clutch System Bleeding":

1. Disconnect the push rod from the clutch pedal.
2. Remove the actuator cylinder from the clutch housing.
3. Remove the reservoir cap.
4. Slowly depress the actuator cylinder push rod to the bottom of the bore.
5. While holding the actuator cylinder push rod, fill the reservoir with GM Delco Supreme No. II Brake Fluid; Hydraulic Clutch Fluid or equivalent that meets DOT 3 specifications, if needed.
6. Slowly release the actuator cylinder push rod.
7. Depress the push rod into the actuator cylinder with short strokes of 5-10mm (.2-.4 in)
- hold the push rod against the palm of your hand in a position which allows the actuator cylinder to be lower than the master cylinder
- watch the reservoir for air bubbles
- stroke the actuator until the air bubbles are no longer entering the master cylinder
8-12. (add fluid if necessary and put things back together)

Sounds more complicated than I thought it should be, but do-able. Update the post if you try this - I'll do the same. Good luck!

Rob