why not solid axle?

[Keith Richards]

I'm just curious to see how many of you guys would prefer a solid front axle on your HD trucks to the IFS systems we have.Personally its my biggest complaint about my otherwise fantastic truck.I've had to have alot of mine rebuilt and dont do a lot of serious offroading.Mainly jobsites and beaches.I've had enough problems and a lot of money in this,to wish GM would start making solid axles on at least the 1 tons,then see how people react.I bet they'd sell an awful lot to ford and dodge guys,and chevy guys for that matter.I'm gonna drive this thing till the wheels fall off,and I hate to say it but I'll probably buy a ford or dodge if chevy isn't offering a solid axle.Please tell me how you guys feel about this.I know it rides very nice, but in a 1 ton?

[rjschoolcraft]

No thank you. I like the IFS and wouldn't want the solid axle. I have 1972 K10 heavy... It rides like a buck board wagon.

Next thing... Folks will say, "You don't work your truck..." I beg to differ. 215,000+ miles. All original ball-joints. Only parts replaced are pitman arm and idler arm.

[eracers999]

IFS hands down, its a tough durable set up. Love the torsion bar set up. Lot more maintenece on a straight axel. Straight axel can not compare to IFS when it comes to ride, tractability and clearance. Plowed snow many many years in MN with them both and my only complaint would be the actuator motor on the IFS would give you trouble from time to time. Nothing a good spare wouldent cure. If i were going to rip on a IFS it would be the FORD, those were towed in regularly with the left front collapsed and a steep repair bill.
Kent

[JoeyD]

I am just hitting 100,000 miles and my front end is going for a rebuild. I plow commercially with it, I sled pull it and it's seen plenty of 4 low driving. I can't complain it's held up to the test. I know plenty of Ford guys who have had multiple ball joints and other crap changed out.

[markrinker]

IFS all the way. Used to 4-wheel my '83 S10 4WD (yes, with the 2.8L) on the low side in 2nd. Would outclimb all the Jeeps and old Ford Bronco's due to better front wheel traction. Have been sold on IFS since for trucks.

[Keith Richards]

Wow.Thats surprising,but I really havent heard any complaints,so I guess it shouldn't be.All my trouble has been after 100'00 miles,idler arms pitman arm,front axle shaft.I never had a lick of trouble with my '86 chevy front axle 250k+.Good to hear yours have worked so well.I dont even plow.I guess I'm the only freak who wants a solid axle.As I said,the ride is very nice though.

[JoeyD]

Kieth, I am not saying I dislike solid axles. I will be swapping one in my truck one day. I am after a lift and wheel travel though. Yes you can lift the IFS but it's limited in overall height and very limited in wheel travel. I always had my doubts about the IFS when I bought my 1st new truck in '96 but I have changed my opinion on them. In stock form they are hard to beat and it comes down to opinion.

[Dvldog 8793]

Howdy
My '89 welding truck has about 250,000 miles on it. These are all hard miles to include 4x4, snowplowing, field spraying and other misc farm work. The only problem I have encountered is the idler arm seems to be a chronic problem. For awhile I think I replaced it about ever 40k miles. The last one I put in was a Moog HD unit for a light duty 3/4 ton. This has lasted for 70k miles so far. Over all the IFS has been amazingly trouble free when I compare it to my '78.
I hope I can as much about the front end in my 99 3500 when it gets that many miles on it. It has about 150k and had NOTHING done to it.
L8r
Conley Janssen

[Keith Richards]

Joey, I am also interested in a lift,mainly larger tires.Iwant to keep the 4.10 gears an put 33's or 35's on it.IFS is very involved to lift,as you know.So I am a little biased in my opinion,plus the 1500.00 invested in parts and labor doesn't help.I am definately not bashing IFS, the family enjoys riding in my truck on weekends as much as I do.I should be good for another 100k after this work done though.Maybe I can crank up the torsion bars and add helper leaves or a (small)block in the rear for the desired height.Probably not the best solution,does anyone have experience with that type of setup?I suppose I could keep everything stock and trim fenders,(scary) though.Probably have to pay an experienced body shop alot of dough fot that too.You see my dillemma? I am lokking forward to lower RPM's as well.

[rjschoolcraft]

Kieth,

This discussion went around about 8 months back with a decidedly different consensus. I was one of the lone dissenters who liked the IFS. My cousins argue against it all the time, but are notably reluctant to change anything! (even their underwear! :D )

The key is an agressive maintenance schedule to keep the ball joints and linkage greased. I still had to replace the idler and pitman arms, though. One other thing to look out for...

Keep oil in the front diff. I just had to replace the carrier in mine because the oil level got low due to a leaking drain plug and wore the bore for the left side gear oversize. The spider gears turn all the time in the IFS front diff, so you have to keep oil in it. I was lax on my checks and messed up (213,000 miles on the unit when it happened, but still...).

I really like the IFS. As with Mark Rinker, I was first exposed to it in an S-10 Blazer. I had a 1986 T10 (4wd) with the 2.8 and Borg Warner T5 five speed (the 2.8 broke its crank shaft and I re-engined with a 4.3 v-6 and put the guts out of a Z-28 Camaro T5 in my truck T5 housing).

[Keith Richards]

My post was a little deceiving.$1500 has been toward front end work,IFS lift is more like $3000

[Keith Richards]

Thanks for the informed input.

[Andy Chesek]

I picked up a Dana 60 reverse cut high pinion (no balljoints, just kingpins) from a 1979 Ford F-350 that I plan to throw under my truck. There are some other things on the list first, but it was nearby and I couldn't let such a hot axle slip away. It's part of my plan to lift the truck. Soon...

[JoeyD]

Keith, I just did an install on a IFS lift in a newer HD. It was fairly easy as it was a spindal lift. It took me and my brother around 7-8hrs. This includes set up time and giving everything a look over as we did it, since it was my brothers truck. We have never done an IFS lift before but have done plenty of solid axle lifts and modifying them.
Total cost for lift was around $1600. Tires and wheels were $2400, they are Weld Forged Aluminum andf BFG MT 35 X17's. If you had to do ball joints and everything the cost would add up say $400 for 4 ball joints, idler and pitman arm, tie rods. Plus add the time it takes to do it all.
Solid axle lifts are costly as well, here is my list,
Dynatrac HP 60 with 35 splined outer shafts detroit and lock out hubs, dual piston calipers and rotors, ABS sensors installed ready to plug in, $5400
ORU spring brackets to bolt it in $850,
Leaf springs, National spring or Deaver Spring $800
Custom Tom Woods driveshaft $400
Bistien 5150 shocks $250
Crossover steering ORU $1000
Brake lines $100
This is my list of how to do it and have it functional all the time. You could cut corners with the axle but pinion angles and ABS need to be dealt with.

[Andy Chesek]

I recently ran into the guy I purchased the Dana 60 from. He has a front Dana 70 out of a '74 International, offered it to me for $400. The pumpkin is on the passenger side, so it wouldn't work as easily as the Dana 60 I have.

I don't know what that Dana 70 would take to be completely refreshened, or what its good and bad points are. I just know that a lot of hi-strength aftermarket Dana 60 parts are derived from Dana 70 parts.

[Dieselboy]

My 85 has a solid front 10 bolt with a kingpin D60 in the works. I love its easy maintenance schedule and rugged simplicity, but...

The 96 of course has 4wd IFS, and has a much better ride than my truck.

That said, IFS does an excellent job in every situation except when oversize tires and low gearing are added in the hopes of improved off-road performance.

Solid axle for 4 wheeling, and IFS for when when I get a salary job and need to run around town/tow more often.

[norm]

My last work truck was a 1985 K30 dually with 454. Cool truck with D60 front and D70 rear, TH400, NP205, and would burn rubber at both ends on pavement yanking rolloffs around at my remodling jobs, but now in my more "civilized" service work, I am liking the quiet, smooth ride of the '95 with the IFS - no complaints, no stucks.

I am planning to install the manual axle actuator from PosiLok - anyone tried this??

[rjschoolcraft]

I havn't, but I have an aversion to that kind of backwards step. I installed the updated stepper motor actuator right after I bought my Suburban at about 60,000 miles. Works great, nearly instantaneously and hasn't caused a problem. I'm over 215,000 now. I would recommend doing this before you give up and go to the Posi-Lok.