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thejim662
12-31-2007, 03:03
Hi All,
Seasons greetings!
Well i finally got my rebuild finished and installed (early 6.2 n/a) into my little land rover 90 and after some fuel priming issues she fired up really easy.
However i did have an oil cooler line burst after approx 15 mins run time.
I think the rubber hose is just a little too close to the exhaust manifold so I would like to go to stainless steel pipes for the first 8-10" so does anybody know what size the oil port threads in the block are?
Also she smokes just a little (barely visible) I am guessing that this maybe due to all the amount of lube in the motor when i rebuilt it.
I also put approx half a pint of two stroke oil in 5 gallons of diesel to help lube the IP as I am told the diesel in the UK does not lubricate as well as in North America, is this a good idea or not worth doing?
Any opinions probable causes of smoke are greatly welcomed
As always great thanks to all the knowledgeable folks on this site!
Jim

john8662
01-05-2008, 20:21
Busted an oil cooling line? Yep, have to make up some more-better lines. I'd recommend the steel braided 5/8" ID teflon insert variety.

The Block thread size for the oil cooler lines is 3/8" NPT for all 6.2L's.

For the smoke at idle, some of it is break-in, but the most of it is fuel quality and most likely the timing.

Not sure on your fuel lubricty requirements, it does not hurt to add additives, just make sure it's of the correct amount as instructed by the additive producer.

Congrats on getting it rebuilt and running!

J

thejim662
01-06-2008, 03:54
The oil cooler line is now sorted I had a local hydraulic service shop make me some pipes up which have worked great.
The smoke issue is a little strange as I have tried advancing and retarding the timing but neither really made much difference.
What does seem weird is that the motor surges and misfires occassionally and smokes much worse when doing so, I should add that the smoke is very light in colour and I am certain it is unburned fuel not lubricating oil.
I am guessing that I may have a sticking or faulty injector as I foolishly neglected to get them serviced / replaced when I did the rebuild.
What is the general opinion on the quality of the remanufactured / new injectors available on e-bay?
I will probably have the pump rebuilt or replaced at the same time so I will need to find a Stanadyne specialist here in the U.K. or ship one in from the States
Once Again many thanks
Jim

john8662
01-06-2008, 14:29
I bought a set of n/a 6.2L injectors from a seller on ebay for around $160, they worked fine.

The misfire that you're getting could be injectors, but I'd make sure you're getting air-less fuel too, install the clear line on top of the injection pump on the return and observe it running.

J

thejim662
01-08-2008, 08:31
Well , I took the injectors down to my local diesel injection shop and had them checked out - they were in pretty bad shape with some leaking , some opening at too low a pressure , and a couple that were sticking pretty badly.
So they are going to rebuild them once the parts arrive and I think that my engine should run a LOT better when theyr'e done!
thanks
Jim

Robyn
01-08-2008, 09:40
Sounds like you have things well in hand. :D

I might suggest that you speak very kindly to the fellow thats rebuilding your injectors and ask him if he will pay special attention to the pop pressure when he rebuilds the injectors and make them all as close to the same as he can and to keep the pressure up near the top of the spec.

Having them all the same makes for a much smoother running engine. The reason for this is that if you have a wide spread on the pressures the timing from cylinder to cylinder can vary some and the engine will not be quite as smooth.

Having the pressure up to the top of the spec will also allow for a nicer spray and better cold starts.

Good luck

Robyn

thejim662
01-12-2008, 08:45
Thanks for the Injector advice Robyn, I have spoken to my injector service guy and he will try and set them as close as possible to each other in pressure.
Also thinking of fitting a DSG stud girdle and a fluid damper before I finally put my truck back on the road.
The block was in good shape with no cracks before the rebuild so i would like to keep it that way!
Anyone got any views on the worth of a stud girdle and fluid damper?
Is it worth me doing or not?
All opinions welcomed as always
Jim

ccatlett1984
01-12-2008, 23:21
if your lines are still good, go to a local race shop and get some fireproof sleeves. its aluminium wrapped heat resistant fabric, good up to 2000F radiant heat, 900F direct contact. thats what i have on my lines.