View Full Version : Aluminum intercooler to intake turbo tube
edmanion
12-11-2007, 07:40
Anyone know of an on-line store to get the Aluminum intercooler to intake turbo tube? Mine has a hole in it and needs to be replaced.
I have no performance issues but the MIL comes on after warm up and the PCM is setting the code for boost performance. This is when the hole was found.
Doing some on line research has turned up the down pipe (Exaust to turbo) but no intercooler to intake.
The dealer wants $350+.
Local junk yards do not have one.
Thanks,
Ed
DennisG01
12-11-2007, 09:42
Can you just patch it with JB Weld or epoxy? Maybe just use a piece of aluminum from Home Depot that is big enough to cover the hole and glue it in place. Or a band clamp and some gasket material? Even if I used some type of epoxy, I'd probably still use a band clamp just for piece of mind that it doesn't blow off.
DmaxMaverick
12-11-2007, 09:58
Welcome to the Forums!
Fuel line at the filter rub a hole in it?
Anyway, you don't have to replace the entire pipe. It can be repaired by patching or cutting it and installing a silicone coupler hose.
Have a look HERE (http://www.siliconeintakes.com/) for silicone hose stuff, and HERE (http://www.boostcontroller.com/) for aluminum tubing (they have some silicone hose too). I'm sure there are other sites, but I had these handy.
edmanion
12-11-2007, 10:22
Thanks for the quick replies.
Yes, that is it exactly, the hole was rubbed in the pipe by the fule line by the filter housing.
I will have to take a closer look tonight. I will be either patch or cut and replace.
I've been reading this site since before the 2001 duramax was released and have posted a few times in the past, I just could not remember my old login name. This site is what got me to buy the then new 2001 2500HD Crew Cab 8 foot box allison trans. I've got 177,000 miles so far. Only had to replace 2 park/neutral switches, a fuel pressure regulator, 3 sets of u-joints, Front Left front Wheel bearing (left side will be replaced soon), and rear axle seals. On my 2nd set of brakes and 4th set of tires (including the OEM).
Thanks again and I will post the results.
Ed
DmaxMaverick
12-11-2007, 10:33
Patching isn't pretty, but can work. Many options to do it. IMO, the best repair would be to have it patched/welded. Any good machine/welding shop should be able to do it. You could also use a patch, matched to the radius, JB-Weld it, and place a clamp around the pipe at the patch. Ugly, but it would work, and would be the least expensive.
When installing the pipe, rotate it a bit where it connects to the intake plenum pipe and it will clear. The only reason they get the hole there is the pipe installation, which is easily avoided if the installer knows about it.
Duramaster
12-11-2007, 21:08
I had one in the shop one time with the hole rubbed in it. I had a fellow tech weld it for me. Everytime it got hot, the hole would grow. I think it cracked. Anyway, he managed to get it welded closed. I vowed to never again go through with that. The finished product wasn't pretty. :rolleyes:
mark45678
12-12-2007, 17:20
I had one in the shop one time with the hole rubbed in it. I had a fellow tech weld it for me. Everytime it got hot, the hole would grow. I think it cracked. Anyway, he managed to get it welded closed. I vowed to never again go through with that. The finished product wasn't pretty. :rolleyes:
sounds like some one needs to practice on there TIG welding skills......
Duramaster
12-13-2007, 00:06
That would require a TIG welder which our shop has not. We have a wire feed, an aluminum wire feed and an ARC welder as well as a gasoline powered arc welder that the S/M used for jumpstarting, but that is another story. :rolleyes: :p
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