Of EGR's and Turbo's......

[eroessler]

I am new to the forum, but have a question regarding the EGR valve. I have a 1989 Chevy Blazer with a 6.2. I am replacing the motor with a military 6.2 out of a Hummer. My first question that I have looked fo in the forum is, if I do not utilize the EGR manifold and re-connect the lines and sensors, will it adversely affect the performance of any part of the vehicle(or give me any check engine lights)? Also, would I just not hook up the connectors or should I remove them?
My other question is in regards to turbo's. I am very interested in turbocharging the new motor, but do not have the funding (or honestly a wife seeing the need to appropriate the funding) for a banks kit. I have read the article on the dual turbo build, but was wondering what would be a good turbo to use. I have found some on e-bay for use on smaller import engines for around $150ish (T3/T4). My question is are these units powerful enough to use on a 6.2 and are these turbos worth the money?

Any help would be appreciated,
Thanks,
Eugene

[john8662]

First off, welcome to TDP's forums!

Engine replacement.

Any time you're replacing an engine consider your replacement engine no matter what it came out of as just a long-block engine. You'll save yourself a lot of grief in the long run.

So, basically strip your military engine down to the longblock, remove the exhaust manifolds (headers), all accessories, The only things I'd leave on the engine would be the injection pump and injectors and lines. But, if your pump on your old engine is known good, swap it onto your new engine, at least you KNOW it's good. Just a note about injection pumps though. The military injection pump will be equipped with a 24v solenoid, easily to ID. Round or spade prongs, round is 24v, spade is 12v, the connection on the center of the top of the pump.

Intake?

Your Blazer used the intake style that uses the CDR valve (tuna can) on the valve cover. So you'll have to remove your valve cover off your old engine for the passenger's side and install it on your new engine.

You want to keep the engine near factory. Your replacement engine will look NO different from what your Blazer's configuration is supposed to be. Makes getting parts and working on it in the future TONS easier.

For the intake though, I'd upgrade to the NON-EGR single plane intake that fits that year range. I can hook you up with one of those if you're interested.

Turbocharging.

Keep your eye on ebay and classified ads for a used Banks setup, it's not just the turbo you're looking for, but the components that mount the turbo to the engine. Things like exhaust manifold, intake pressure chamber and plumbing just to name the key items.

Yep, those turbos you see on ebay might work, depending on the size of the compressor and exhaust housings and wheels. Most are T04B's. Without going into the specifics, it can sure be done. But, do you want a cheap chinese turbo?

J

[DmaxMaverick]

The EGR system on the 6.2's is passive. It doesn't monitor actual EGR function, so as long as you leave the electric components in place, you won't get a code. An alternative is to replace them with resistors. Resistors are very cheap, unlike the replacement OEM parts. The Diesel ECU only sees a resistance at the end of the circuit, and does not monitor temps and gas output (like the gasser O2 sensor). It only has to "think" it works.

[eroessler]

Thanks for the info guys, ya'll have been very helpful.
Eugene