Pulling front IFS diff

[DA BIG ONE]

Well, after many problems with the shop that did my gear change (never returning my good removed gear sets), and installed my air locker in my front diff I've decided I'm going to remove my front differential myself to replace the mounts/bushings which were damaged by the shop.

The shop "BROWARD POWER TRAIN" in Ft. Lauderdale had refused to replace or repair things they screwed up when working on my burb, to include axle/cv assembly, bump stops (airlift) along with items mentioned herein. So, be warned.

Other things I found to be an issue is the diff seal at axle flange drivers side leaks, and the metal slinger that protects the seal and flange shaft is missing. This is the side where the axle flange came out while I was on the road between AZ and FL, and just after this shop did the work, or as I'd like to call it screwed up the work!

I don't know how they screwed up the bushing/mounts but somehow the center section where the mounting bolt goes through which is designed to standoff about 1/8th" at each end no longer does. It looks like the a-h___ who pressed them or used a hammer to knock them in forcing the center section and bushings to one side causing metal to metal contact of the diff mount tabs and chassis.

Then there are the wheel studs (3) and lugs they stripped because they were too damn lazy to thread the lug nuts on by hand first. These studs were all new when they damaged them.

What is best way to remove axle flange on drivers side? It has a wire snap ring that is attached to axle flange and when flange is inserted into diff it locks in place.

[ 01-14-2006, 11:01 PM: Message edited by: DA BIG ONE ]

[rjschoolcraft]

The book method is to use a slide hammer.

I just grabbed a hold of it and gave it a good jerk with my hands. Wound up with a mashed thumbnail on one occasion, but the flange came out.

[rjwest]

I have not found many competent mechanics in Florida. They usually break more than they fix...

[DA BIG ONE]

Got the front diff unbolted and sitting on tranny jack, but have to pull steering center link to get it out from under truck. Today hopefully I can have seals and bushings done so I can put the diff back in.

Found the morons who worked on truck did not reinstall the washers at end of driveshaft/cv joint assembly. Only the very corners 1/16th" (points)of the 6 point nut held everything together.

[rjschoolcraft]

If you roll and twist the front diff as you bring it out, it will come without removing the steering center link.

[DA BIG ONE]

Originally posted by ronniejoe:
If you roll and twist the front diff as you bring it out, it will come without removing the steering center link. I tried this but, needed to disconnect it at the pitmen arm and then disconnected the outer tie rod ends to finally get it out. Figure it was about 20 minutes extra work.

Thinking now it will be easy to do the motor mounts w/poly replacements.

Everything was new, the diff case, bushings, almost all inner diff parts except the axle flanges before I took it for gear change and air locker.

[stingthieves]

How/why did you pick the air locker over a cable or electric lock device???? Rick

[DA BIG ONE]

Originally posted by stingthieves:
How/why did you pick the air locker over a cable or electric lock device???? Rick It was the only locker to be had at the time for the GM 14 bolt IFS diff. Then there is the extra feature of an onboard compressor for airing up tires now.

It works great, everyone is in shock how well a 2500 burb does off road now.

[DA BIG ONE]

I find no one wants to tackle pressing out the bushings/diff to chassis mounts, so, I will use a motor crane and treesaver strap to hold the diff in place then move my press into position and do it myself.

The GM parts guy sold me the wrong flange seal and deflector, need the one for K30.

My son reminded me that the shop claimed they had trouble getting the diff back in after they did the locker. We find the bushing damage is the reason! Somehow, someone pressed the center shaft of the upper bushing out to one side making the bushing too wide to fit into the chassis bracket, when they finally forced it in "there was only diff to chassis contact, bushing no longer did what it was supposed to do".

[stingthieves]

http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/atd-8696.html
Would this help you? ;)

[DA BIG ONE]

Originally posted by stingthieves:
http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/atd-8696.html
Would this help you? ;) Cool, Just exactly what I need!
Thanks

[stingthieves]

http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/atd-8697.html
don't forget the adaptors! hehehehe

[Diesel Dan]

Leave the steering column unlocked and turn the wheels all the way too one side and you can get the diff out without dropping the drag link. I have done many axle seals in these trucks when I worked at the dealer. The 9.25" diff and 6.5 or 7.4L were the tightest fit of them all.

PS, rethink the poly mounts. A friend installed them on his 350 powered pickup with a manual trans. They transmit alot of engine vibration. If you buy new rubber mounts buy factory ones, I bought some aftermarket ones for less once and they didn't hold up very well.

[DA BIG ONE]

Originally posted by Diesel Dan:
Leave the steering column unlocked and turn the wheels all the way too one side and you can get the diff out without dropping the drag link. I have done many axle seals in these trucks when I worked at the dealer. The 9.25" diff and 6.5 or 7.4L were the tightest fit of them all.

PS, rethink the poly mounts. A friend installed them on his 350 powered pickup with a manual trans. They transmit alot of engine vibration. If you buy new rubber mounts buy factory ones, I bought some aftermarket ones for less once and they didn't hold up very well. My burb has the C6P option 8,600 GVWR axles, and GM gave me the wrong seals, waiting on them. I thought my carrier was leaking at the axle flange seal. However, it's the bearing adjuster that is leaking which has a large diameter o-ring and I don't really know how to adjust this bearing adjuster if I remove it. Do I just set the adjuster back at the same spot and amount of turns, like if it is 5 turns out then 5 turns back in when adjusting, or?

I'd hate like hell to screw this one year old carrier up for lack of knowledge.

[Diesel Dan]

Originally posted by DA BIG ONE:
My burb has the C6P option 8,600 GVWR axles, and GM gave me the wrong seals, waiting on them. I thought my carrier was leaking at the axle flange seal. However, it's the bearing adjuster that is leaking which has a large diameter o-ring and I don't really know how to adjust this bearing adjuster if I remove it. Do I just set the adjuster back at the same spot and amount of turns, like if it is 5 turns out then 5 turns back in when adjusting, or?

I'd hate like hell to screw this one year old carrier up for lack of knowledge. I never had to setup a front R&P on these trucks. But that sounds about right, mark the adjuster to the case for position and then return it there. Without seeing a blown up view of the diff or someone saying otherwise that's how I'd do it.

Just remember, there is nothing you can break that money can't fix :D !

[DA BIG ONE]

Got the IFS diff back in fairly easy.

Have some torque steer in 4wd high, thinking alignment maybe needs tweeking.

[Barry Nave]

Now its done right,Good job :D

[DA BIG ONE]

Originally posted by Bnave95:
Now its done right,Good job :D First time I did one, all things considered, I'd do it again if necessary. Took awhile because I decided not to rush.

The one thing I will remember when ordering parts for the front differential is that the vin number is not enough because parts listing shows wrong parts, so the rpo is needed too to acess parts in the K30/35 section. I remember having this problem w/frt drive axle cv joint part number, somehow GM has it listed for 2000 and up.