Post surgery update. Driving impressions.

[Randee of the Redwoods]

Recap-random, nonrepeatable electical problem that would shut down the entire truck and all processes there-in. After all my troubleshooting efforts, I ended up replacing the main power lead from the passenger's battery to the junction block on the firewall. I also replaced the battery cable from the passenger's battery to the starter.
So, it's been a week. Little jaunts around town were fine. No drama. I had no choice but to take it to work one day. That's 54 miles each way. No problems. In fact, I have had no problems since the repair. I'm not yet convinced it's fixed yet since I can't repeat the problem at will. But, so far, so good. The replacement power lead that went in was of a thicker gauge. I've noticed a difference in the voltmeter readout. The glow cycle also seems longer and the truck starts quicker. Not only does the starter spin faster due to the new cable, but the engine in general takes less time from turn over to run. It never started this quick before. Weird weather lately, temps in the high 30's low 40's overnight. Not using the block heater, the motor will start in just a couple seconds, rather than roll over several times and take sometimes over 10 seconds before it would start. There's also less smoke on cold starts.
I inspected the original main power lead and it LOOKED ok. I won't get into details. I also rehabbed the positive connections at the passenger's battery.
Overall, so far so good. I'm not complaining. Maybe it's running so good because the computer was disconnected for 5+ hours. Beats me. But I am starting to think the problem may have been in the connections at the battery, not in the power lead. But the old lead was in bad shape anyhow.
Now, if only the seats were more comfortable.

[markelectric]

If you think those seats are bad, go sit in a second generation Dodge for a 400 mile trip.
Gives a whole new meaning to backache.....

[Barry Nave]

Add you almost gave up tongue.gif
This is good to hear though. Have been keeping track of your ordeal. All the work you have done is some thing to keep in mine. Guess there could always be some if's, but it may have came down to the start,Battery conection,cables,power leads.
Now be brave and drive ;)

[Randee of the Redwoods]

And be brave I did. The following Monday after the surgery, as my commuter car continued to fail inspection, all I had left to drive to work was the truck so toss all my trust in it I did. Went off without a hitch. It'll take a while before I can really rely on it again as everytime before when my reliance would build, it would break down or otherwise pis me off. But I learned some valuable lessons this time as well. Most notably in the troubleshooting department.
The surgery was fairly involved including removing parts that did not require removal for the sake of making the job easier. Wouldn't have done it any other way. The passenger's inner fender, battery, wheel, the starter, main power lead, main starter cable, ground strap, glow plug harness, battery connections and some other stuff I can't remember right now were relocated, removed, or disconnected as such so I could work. I learned a lot about the truck as well. When this thing goes, it will be a sad day. There's nothing like just unbolting the inner fender and having the whole motor side at your service.
Based on what I found, saw, and corrected, I can offer some tips. Whether they help anyone or not I can't say. The 2 biggest pointers I can offer are A) make all battery connections as SIMPLE as possible. The fewer pieces and connections involved, the better. And B) when diagnosing an electrical problem, identify the MAIN power feed to the fuse panel. Because when that goes, everything goes.
For pointer A, I had a wahoo setup that I really don't have enough room to describe. One cable was squashed in a bolt on replacement side mount battery terminal. The main power feed had been spliced once(by me). There was a second lug on the battery for another connection and on and on and on. Now, both large cables are lugged, shrinkwrapped, and terminate in the same place with a direct connection to the battery terminal.
That right there probably eliminated most of my troubles since there was easily 5 or more physical contact spots for everything to get into the battery. Now there is one.
As for B, I had been tracking the symptoms but not really sat down long enough to put them together. So, it cost me a new ign key, a toggle switch that was to be used hotwire the shutoff solonoid, spool of wire for said switch, several hours in the dark one night(I was motivated) to replace the key, several hours of adding new ground straps to the motor, adding one ground strap to the firewall that now makes it almost unbearable to drive since I can HEAR EVERYTHING under the hood and so on and so on. And these were things were not even necessary.
I will still say right now so far, so good. I waiting for some actualy winter weather to return to really test it out. Cold weather always made the problem worst which is why I though it was a bad battery.
And some wisdom for all: while diagnosing your electrical problem, reroute and replace that main power feed. There's no reason it needs to be at the bottom of the block next to the starter. I think that was part of my problem. It was just worn out.

[Barry Nave]

reroute and replace that main power feed. There's no reason it needs to be at the bottom of the block next to the starter. I think that was part of my problem. It was just worn out-

I thought the main power was from battery to fuse block by the brake booster.
What main feed is by the starter?

[Randee of the Redwoods]

In my truck at least, there are three connections at the passenger's battery positive. One goes to the starter, one goes to the driver's battery, and one smaller one goes to the junction block under the plastic cover next to the radiator overflow canister. From there, battery postive(+) is split some whole bunch of times(like 7 or so) which go about their separate ways. One thick red one goes to the glow plug relay. One or two, I can't remember, go straight down and into the cabin by way of the computer harness. There is at least one that runs the length of the firewall to the large plug near the master cylinder which is the fuse panel harness interface. I don't know which one(s) those leads are, but, at least in my 94, my fuse panel (seems to be) is fed from that junction block near the accumulater, over top the overflow canister. The power lead I removed HAD to be original(even though I had spliced it once before) because it was still in original loom/tape bundled with the solonoid wire from the key back into the main harness to reappear at the junction block. How do I know it was original loom and tape? After removing the starter, the loom disintegrated in my fingers as I tried to remove it.
From the batteries, from what I can see(in my truck that is), the fuse panel feed is broken down into at least 2 parts.

[Barry Nave]

OK, All that must of changed in the 95 for I don't have all those wires going every where.
94 set up does sound like a PITA.
On the pass. side battery, I only have one power lead going to starter plus the power cable that ties the two together. Driver side,power lead to fuse block,Alt and pass. battery.

[Randee of the Redwoods]

Well there you go. Looks like it took GM until 95 to actually get the wiring right.