starter short?

[bleucrew6.2]

This weekend I tried to start my truck, and no go. After the glow plug light went out, I turned the key and heard an odd sound- kind of like a bump. The starter did not work at all. No click, no spin, nothing. I smelled that dreaded hot wire smell, and traced the smell to the wiring harness over the fuse block. Is it possible that my starter has a dead short? I have not had any difficulty with this starter before. I'm wondering if the bump sound I heard was the starter shorting and locking up.

Thanks for any and all help.

[Robyn]

Howdy

You need to drop the starter and check it out of the truck with a set of jumper cables and see whats going on. If the starter works fine then you need to be checking the trucks wiring for a short somewhere.

Could even be a coroded or loose battery cable where it bolts to the starter solenoid or the starter/solenoid has gone south



Check it out and let us know.

Good luck

Robyn

[bleucrew6.2]

Thanks Robyn.
I already started removing the starter and ran into some difficulties. I can't seem to move the starter out enough for it to clear the bellhousing. I removed all bolts on the bellhousing, but can't get that out of the way because of the transmission lines. After this bit of fun, I crawled out from under to get 12 ounces of patience from the fridge. I haven't had time to get back to it.
Incidentally, the batteries are fresh, and everything else works.

[93GMCSierra]

There is a third bolt on the starter, it bolts to the exhaust manifold.

[HH]

There is a third bolt on the starter, it bolts to the exhaust manifold.

My third bolts to the block.

[bleucrew6.2]

I'm not sure what third bolt you all are talking about. Is this a difference between starter mounting on a 6.2 versus a 6.5? I had no trouble getting the starter loose of its mount, I'm just having trouble getting it on the ground. It doesn't have enough room to slide out all the way clear of the bellhousing.

[Robyn]

I am assuming your rig has an auto tranny. Drop the bellhousing cover off the bottom and the little creature will fall on the ground.

Robyn

[ccatlett1984]

on my truck with a TH400 the trans lines where in the way of dropping the inspection cover. you should have enough play in the lines to bend them just enough to get the cover out.

[bleucrew6.2]

Not sure which transmission is in the truck, but the cooling lines are definitely my hang up. They are quite resistant to bending!

[bigeasy]

The third bolt......
It is actually a stud at the front of the starter up high ( feel for it ).
It hooks the weight of the starters nose to the block.
usually you have to take it loose at the block end of the strap, to get the starter out.

[Robyn]

The easy way to get the front starter hanger loose is to remove the right front tire and go in though the opening in the fender well that has the little rubber flap on it.
This gives very good access to the wiring and the front bolt.

Robyn

[bleucrew6.2]

Okay. I've been looking at replacement starters on ebay. I see the mounting stud at the front of the starter. I did not need to remove a nut or support strap at this location to get my starter loose. I understand that this stud/strap helps support the weight of the starter, but I don't seem to have one. I know this is an important part, and I guess I'll be visiting the Chevy dealer for the parts unless someone knows a better source. Maybe the friendly Air Force motorpool mechanic thought it wasn't needed...

Is there a particular replacement starter I should look for? Are the gear reduction starters a good thing, and are they as universal as the add claims?
My local NAPA store shows three different part numbers, all different prices, and I'm sure the one I want is the most expensive one!

[Subzilla]

Not only does the strap support the weight but it really functions to keep the starter from torquing around and breaking the bolts. You want this in place!

[bleucrew6.2]

Okay, here's the update. The starter is on the ground. It has the remains of the motor support bracket attached to it. The other half is still attached to the block. Yippee. Either I weld the two pieces back together, or let the local Chevy dealer have their way with my wallet. I'm sure they will consider this a most valuable piece, and price it accordingly..
On the ground, with the starter and solenoid separated electrically, the starter wouldn't budge with jumper cables applied, and neither would the solenoid. After rotating the starter motor with a screwdriver a bit, it ran like a champ, but still no go with the solenoid...
Maybe the motor had a little crud in it and was stuck, maybe the solenoid is the issue- who knows? I don't think I'll be putting it back in the truck though.
Dmax is suggesting a local rebuild over an over the counter or "new" gear reduction unit. He makes some good points (see "which starter" post).
Anyone else want to weigh in on this?

Thank you all!
Bleu

[wthif]

It has the remains of the motor support bracket attached to it. The other half is still attached to the block. Yippee. Either I weld the two pieces back together, or let the local Chevy dealer have their way with my wallet. I'm sure they will consider this a most valuable piece, and price it accordingly..


The part is cheap, IIRC about $2 or so. If they don't have them I have one I will part with for the same amount, just PM.