Needed 14Bolt SF Rear Differential 6-lug axles.

[john8662]

I'm now looking for a complete rear differential out of 88-99 pickup that is a 14 bolt semi-floater with 6-lug axles in it.

I'm looking for it to be equipped with the G80 and 3.42 gears.

Reasonable price I'll certainly pay to have it shipped.

I'm in need of this for my '82 Shortbox pickup as I've SHATTERED the differential in it, a 10-bolt differential is not capable of handling the HP/TQ the new engine combination I'm running in the truck.

Broke the rear end at the dragstrip, BANG!

J

[More Power]

Wheel flange to wheel flange measurement on the 90's axles is wider than the 80's trucks. You could use wheels produced for a 90's backspacing.

The light-duty 2500 series axles used in the 2000-2006 GM trucks is a 14-bolt SF 8-lug with disc brakes. The axle shafts could be changed to a 6-lug. :)

Jim

[DmaxMaverick]

Or....

Use a mid-late 70's 12 bolt from a 4x4. It's a SF and has 6 lugs and will be a direct fit for up to 88, including all the brake hardware. Pinion angle, offset and length is the same, so no shaft mod (very likely with a 14 bolt). I replaced my disposable 10 bolt with a '78. Tried to break it for over 250K, unsuccessfully.

[vr1967]

the 8.5 ten bolt is an extremely stout reat end, it has the same pinion diameter as the 12 bolt Chevy car rear, which has a bigger pinion that the 12 bolt Chevy truck rear.
Was the 10 bolt equipped with a Gov Loc? Or an Eaton type clutch posi? The Gov Loc is not designed to function in a dragstrip or any other HP environment.
The 14 bolt SF Gov Loc is not much stronger, as I have 2 shattered in my scrap pile. Only the 14 bolt FF Gov Loc has any strength to it.
If high performance is what you are looking for, I would look into a clutch type posi.

[john8662]

Doing some more thinking here.

1982 chassis.

Thinking of acquiring an 82-87 14B SF rear end out of a 3/4 ton that is 8-lug and swapping out the axles out to 5-lug, which was available in the 454 SS 14B SF axles they came from factory. The question (that I may have to call Randy's R&P or others about) is whether the older differential assembly will accept those axles.

The old rear end that I broke was setup with 3.73 gears (aftermarket) and what I call an old-school true Posi that only has the clutches and no governors and that stuff, just the spring in the middle. Had been working fine. I suspect that this may be the item that failed internally as well. I'm pretty sure that the carrier is broke because the axle on the driver's side slid out, or it's broken itself as well. When the trans is in gear, just the driveline rotates with the beautiful sound of teeth bararly catching somewhere in side, sound of marbles grinding.

Probably have to just build this custom rear-end to fit, just need to find out what components are compatible to start from.

I was told by a local yard that measured both rears, the 10-bolt and the 14-bolt with 6-lug that the center-to-center distance was the same, just the pads and shock mounts were in different locations, which can be resolved with some cutting/welding.

[wade-ve7trw]

I would ship you a complete one from a 82 2500 gmc with only 47k on it but Northern BC Canada is too far. The freight bill would be rather large. If We can figure out a way to get it to you, it will make a heck of a xmas gift

[vr1967]

John,
Sorry, I was thinking the 82 still had an old Gov Loc in it. That is what my 82 had, and I did the same, upgrading to a clutch type posi.
I ran a 589 hp/454 thru the 10 bolt 8.5 with good results. But with my situation, I could not get enough traction to damage the rear.
Virgil

[arveetek]

When the trans is in gear, just the driveline rotates with the beautiful sound of teeth bararly catching somewhere in side, sound of marbles grinding.


I had the same thing occur on my old '96 Ford E-350 with a limited slip rear end. Turns out the carrier w/ring and pinion were just fine...it was just the limited slip spider gears that were shot. The clutch pack was too tight, causing the spider gears to slip, instead of the clutches, thus wearing down the gears. The spider gears on the limited slip are much smaller than on a standard open diff, at least on this Dana 70. Since I didn't need limited-slip, I installed a standard open diff, that looked much, much beefier.

If you pull your diff cover off, you might be surprised to find a simple fix...

Casey

[john8662]

Got the cover off and I didn't see much other than the remnant stub of an axle and the c-clip for the driver's side axle.

I jacked up the rear end of the truck on the trailer and removed the driver's rear tire and slid the axle out of the tube, it's twisted off good.

Once I got the many pieces of the broken axle out I was able to rotate the other side, and start the truck and put it in gear and see the one remaining wheel spin, so the posi is still doing it's thing. No clue why it didn't at the track. Probably cause it wanted to keep me safe, cause the axle woulda flown out and lost a tire anyways.

I'm searching for a replacement axle to patch this differential up for the time being.

I figure it won't be too hard to pull the other axle out, pull the carrier, thus removing the inner bearing/race out of the housing and then clean out all the remains, magnet only get's the big chunks.

I need it back together so I can drive the truck around some more and take it to the strip a few more times to see what I can get it to do in the 1/4 mile after the last bit of mods, most racing is done for the season at many tracks.

I'll just not stall it up as much at the line.

Pictures as soon as I find my camera :rolleyes:

Still making plans and searching for components for the 14B SF 9.5 build.

J

[DmaxMaverick]

John

I have a couple good 6 lug axles for the 10 bolt. Yours for the cost of shipping.

[john8662]

John

I have a couple good 6 lug axles for the 10 bolt. Yours for the cost of shipping.

Greg,

Thanks for the offer.

I was originally looking for a 14b SF axle with 6-lug axles in it because I had thought that was one of the only other configurations besides the 8-lug on that axle. I now know it can be had in 5-lug as well. I was about to convert to 6-lug wheels in the back.

The truck is a 2WD 1/2 ton that has 5-lug axles, so I'm looking for a replacement 5-lug version.

I also have a line on a 12 Bolt out of a 79 2WD pickup with 5-lug axles, tempting to snag it if it'll make a bolt-in replacement for what I've got and be stronger or strong enough. Most in the racing community swear by the 12-bolt.

John

[DmaxMaverick]

OK. They're just taking up space in my barn.

You won't be disappointed with the 12 bolt. I know the 10 bolt is fine in 1/2 tons for gassers, but it was a bad idea for Diesels. I've blown up the carriers, stripped the axles/side gears, etc. All this with an Auburn L/S. The Auburn is awesome in the 12 bolt.

[john8662]

Well, I got the rear end back together and FINALLY got the truck back off the trailer.

Here is what broke, which one part actually saved my butt by sacraficing it's own.

One axle broke, in a bad way, getting the metal pieces out was really fun. I ended up just taking the thing nearly all the way apart, The only thing left in the axle was the pinion gear. Both axle shafts had to come out to facilitate removing the carrier and ring gear, and make sure I could clean the housing well.

http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/photopost/data/504/P1010036_1.jpg

http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/photopost/data/504/P1010039_1.jpg

Here is the stuff left over in the housings

http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/photopost/data/504/P1010121.jpg

Finally, the part that saved my butt. The reason why the truck refused to move in any direction and the reason for the noise inside was a failed spider gear. Just popped the tooth right off the gear. The tooth managed to fall into the bottom of the housing without passing through anything else.

http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/photopost/data/504/P10101191.jpg

You can also see the remaining piece of the axle shaft, the splines that were still in the carrier with the C-Clip still attached.

Since the rear end is back together I'm not going to be so harsh on it until I get something stronger underneath. I want to keep this truck together until I can get it down to the Chassis Dyno and see what the HP/TQ the current configuration is making.

:)