A-Pillar Gage mount for EGT, Boost and Transmission Temp.

[Jochen Woern]

Looking to upgrade my 1996 Suburban with the following Gages:
- EGT
- Boost
- Transmission Temperature

I would like to mount these on the A-Pillar with the proper Plastic Pillar attachment piece.

The Interior of my Truck is TAN.

- Could anyone advise where to buy a descent set of these gages, with the matching TAN attachment piece?

- Anyone have any pictures of how this is suppose to look like, keeping the original factory look? (I sure do not want any white Gages, would certainly like something that matches the existing Instrument Panel).

Thanks in advance.

[DA BIG ONE]

Buy. best gauges you can afford; as for the tan you generally have to paint these pillar mounts to match existing colors.

[Jochen Woern]

Anyone got some pictures of this A-Pillar mount with gages?

Any suggestions as to WHERE to purchase these gages at WHAT cost?

Thanks!

[DennisG01]

My Suburban has the tan interior and I also have a 3 pod. I bought tan spray paint "for plastics" at Home Depot. It's not a perfect match, but it's awful close.

[trbankii]

Several of the Diesel Page vendors offer the mounts as well as gauges - even as "kits" with the mount and gauges sold as a package.

[DmaxMaverick]

Anyone got some pictures of this A-Pillar mount with gages?

Any suggestions as to WHERE to purchase these gages at WHAT cost?

Thanks!


Go HERE (http://www.thedieselpage.com/reviews/gauges2005.htm) for pictures, and HERE (http://www.thedieselpage.com/vendors/main.htm) for products.

[JohnC]

Check the parts stores for spray cans to match the interior.

[Jochen Woern]

Good evening All.

First off, thanks for the information. The local hardware store shall supply the correct matching TAN plastic color in a spray can to match my Interior.

In the meantime, I have done some research myself, and found the following Gauges at www.usdieselparts.com:

Pic1: AUTOMETER
Pic2: ISSPRO

Now, I have some more questions which you can hopefully answer:

1.) Do these Gauges usually come with clear as well as precise Installation Instructions?
- I have seen Installation Instructions on the site here for the PYROMETER, so I am pretty clear on that.
- How do you install the BOOST GAUGE?
- How do you install the TRANSMISSION TEMPERATURE GAUGE?

2.) PYROMETER: Measures the Engine Gas Temperature (EGT), CORRECT?
- What is the "hottest" allowable EGT one should allow on the 6.5L? I think I read somewhere around 1250 degrees Fahrenheit max.? Is that correct?

2.) BOOST GAUGE: How do you measure the BOOST? What should the Gauge read under normal driving conditions? Does it change/should it change when towing?

3.) TRANSMISSION TEMP. GAUGE: How hot should this temperature be? What is the max. allowable here?

Sorry, some of these questions may sound dumb to you, but I need some help here.

Thanks in advance.

[Jochen Woern]

Could anyone please provide some info in regards to my earlier questions about the above mentioned Gauges and how they work.

THANKS!

[DmaxMaverick]

1. No. Boost gage only needs to be tapped into the intake plenum. Remove the top, drill, tap. Run tubing to the gage. Some folks tee into the sensor fitting, but the drill/tap method is better. Tranny temp, remove the pan and have a bung welded into it to accept the thermocouple. You could tee into a line or thread into the pressure port, but these locations are very sporadic with the readings. The pan will be stable, and offer a good average of the tranny temp. Don't use the threaded bulkhead type fitting. It WILL leak.

2. Correct. 1250° is a good limit to stand by, PRE TURBO. Post turbo will be 2-300° less. I recommend pre turbo, but others won't agree. Drilling/tapping the manifold is easy and doesn't require removal.

2. (again) Normal conditions depend on your driving habit and condition of your truck. Normally, you won't see higher than 8 PSI stock. Highway cruising, you should see 2-4 PSI, empty/unloaded. 10-12 PSI is about the limit for a chipped engine with stock parts. More than that and you should have an intercooler, among other upgrades. This is where the pyro comes in. Keep an eye on it. Larger than stock exhaust is highly recommended if you exceed stock output.

3. This depends on conditions, tranny health, and fluid type. For dino fluid, 240° is a hard limit. 300° for synthetic. These limits are for short periods. Extended use at these temps will kill the fluid in a hurry. Ideal operating temp is 160°. Less will be as bad as more (within limits). Normal driving with no load should be 150-180°. 200-220° for heavy towing. Higher temps for longer periods should dictate your service interval.

Nope. No dumb questions. Very good, actually. Problem is, most of the values you seek are dependent on too many variables not consistent with everyone's driving style. Gages are best used for tracking trends rather than hard data. Autometer and Isspro are good gage brands. I use Isspro, mounted in the overhead console in billet aluminum. Very nice, but a PITA routing the wires/tubing.

[Jochen Woern]

Thank you very much DmaxMaverick, you answered all my questions with much detail, very much appreciated. :)

Thanks again.

[enforcer233]

I was looking at the links to the guage information in the earlier post and I like the looks of the windshield triple guage pod that goes above the rear view mirror, but WHO MAKES IT? I could not find it on the ISSPRO site.

Thanks

[sturgeon-phish]

Sorry for late post, been busy.
Here is a pic of my instal
http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p81/sturgeon-phish/Truck/000_0020-6.jpg
Boost tap
http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p81/sturgeon-phish/Truck/000_0015-5.jpg
http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p81/sturgeon-phish/Truck/000_0014-4.jpg
Trans temp tap
http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p81/sturgeon-phish/Truck/000_0009-5.jpg
EGT tap in crossover pipe
http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p81/sturgeon-phish/Truck/000_0003-6.jpg
Back of pod
http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p81/sturgeon-phish/Truck/000_0013-7.jpg
Do a search and I had step by step instruction that made the insallation very easy. I went to Autozone and got the paint for the paint. If you can't find the post, I look for the file where I wrote out the instructions
Jim

[Jochen Woern]

Thank you very much Jim for the awesome and very detailed photographs, very much appreciated.

[sturgeon-phish]

I've got more if you need them glad to help
Jim

[Jochen Woern]

Hi Jim, how are you?

If you got more pics as well as the "step by step" instructions and if is not too much trouble for you, I would gladly take all the info you have.

Thanks very much in advance and good day,
Jochen

[Nobby]

Hey Jim,
I am just doing this myself and trying to figure out the securing method for the gauge pod. Mine came with 3 somewhat cheesy little plastic barbs and the instructions said to drill holes and then just push these barbs in. Is this how yours attached if not what make was your pod. Or did you figure out a better attachment method. Those barbs also look a pain for future removal for maintenance etc.

cheers
Nobby

[DennisG01]

Mine came with 3 somewhat cheesy little plastic barbs and the instructions said to drill holes and then just push these barbs in. Is this how yours attached if not what make was your pod.

Yup, that's how they attach - actually pretty easy to do and works well. Although, you might want to use 4 or 6 of them for a pillar mount. You can buy these things at auto stores. If you're worried about removal, get a different design - maybe the kind that sort of "screws" in.

[sturgeon-phish]

1. Lay replacement pillar pod on top of existing pillar and mark on existing pillar where replacement pillar comes to.
2. Remove original pillar post and cut original pillar providing excess material on original pillar for replacement pillar to cover.
3. Replace cut down original pillar into position
4. Paint pod pillar if needed
5. Arrange gauges in pod in desired order and level to horizon the gauges in the pillar
6. Secure gauges to pod
7. Push boost gauge tube, EGT & Temp plug from under the dash through hole at base of pillar
8. Pull leads out ~ 24” (as far as top gauge plus a little)
9. Make wiring harness for gauge lights leave loop between connectors and extra wire at base of pillar
10. Tap into fuse #14 at door panel with add a tap
11. Connect hot light wire to fuse tap
12. Attach ground for light wire to ground
13. Plug in light harness connections and gauges sending connectors to each gauge
14. Test lights
15. Place pod pillar into position (do not secure at this time)
16. Slice a 1” slit in boot where steering column goes through firewall
17. From inside cab feed wires from Trans temp and EGT modules and boost gauge tube through slit at steering wheel boot
18. Ensure enough lead wire at pillar and secure Modules to floorboard with double face tape and sheet metal screws
19. Connect EGT and Trans Temp probe connector and Boost Gauge tube to appropriate gauge
20. Test fit pillar and adjust connections as need for fit
21. Drill hole in through top of pod to the piller and secure with a screw. (tried using tape with no success, gets hot and falls off)

EGT Probe Installation
1. Obtain a ¼ x ¾ bushing and a ¼ plug NPT
2. Cut the bushing where ¼ threads stop at shoulder of bushing
3. Grind a fish mouth on the bushing where cut to closely match profile of crossover pipe.
4. Mark crossover for location for probe
5. Remove exhaust crossover; may need to heat bolts to loosen
6. Drill hole where marked on crossover
7. Install ¼ plug into bushing
8. Weld bushing in place
9. Remove ¼ plug and install EGT probe with antisieze on threads
10. Connect probe end to EGT lead
11. Connect EGT lead terminals to terminal from gauge matching colored wires
12. Connect to power source and ground
Transmission Temperature Probe Installation
1. Set Emergency Brake and chock wheels if not already do so.
2. Remove the two bolts holding the shift mechanism and pull slightly away from transmission to gain access to inspection plug.
3. Remove the plug from driver’s side of transmission behind shift mechanism. No fluid should come out.
4. Replace plug with trans temp probe into hole and tighten
5. Connect probe end to trans temp lead wire
6. Connect to power source
Boost Gauge Tap Installation
1. Remove the flexible boot strap closest to intake manifold
2. Remove the six bolts holding the upper intake manifold to the lower manifold
3. Remove turbo / intake bracket
4. Disconnect the connectors to the flow sensor and the little black thing
5. Carefully remove the upper intake taking care not to tear the gasket
6. Place something over lower intake to keep debris from entering engine
7. Secure upper intake into a vice
8. Drill pilot hole then drill larger in steps. Intake is very soft material
9. Tap hole (1/8 – 28 NPT) going easy and using kerosene or diesel fuel as lube
10. Test fit for fitting
11. De-burr inside and out
12. Clean out debris from drilling tapping
13. Inspect intake inlet for debris
14. Install boost gauge threaded connector
15. Inspect gasket and replace if needed
16. Reinstall gasket and upper manifold
17. Torque using opposing pattern to 17 ft/lbs.
18. Replace flexible connector clamps and bracket
19. Connect tube from boost gauge to fitting
To provide electric for gauge lights and gauges
http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p81/sturgeon-phish/Truck/000_0011-5.jpg
I brought all the connectors here for ease of future work if needed
http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p81/sturgeon-phish/Truck/000_0015-4.jpg
Trans probe in place behind shift linkage
http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p81/sturgeon-phish/Truck/000_0021-2.jpg
Trans temp and EGT modules mounted on floor under dash drivers side
http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p81/sturgeon-phish/Truck/000_0013-8.jpg

[Jochen Woern]

Jim,
Thank you so very much for providing all this additional information and pictures.

Totally awesome, really! Thanks a million.

Regards,
Jochen

[FLSTSS]

Jochen,
I see you got the paint, But if it is not to your liking You my try this. I have tan interior also. What I did was I took the triangular piece from behind the the mirror (it just pulls off) on the door and brought it to a local auto body paint supply store and they matched it perfect in a spray bomb, it was about 20 bucks. If you want I can send you pics of the pod.

[Jochen Woern]

Thanks Scott, pictures would be great.

Regards.

[jpgreen]

Would also like to thank you guys for the tutorial. I will be doing the same thing next week.

[FLSTSS]

Jochen,
here is a picture of my gauge set up.

[sprice]

SSdieselsupply.com has an awesome collection of performance parts, and they are a little cheaper than some of their competitors like Kennedy Diesel. They also have a great tech support department. My bully dog gauges with pod was around $375. I was trying to find a packaged deal so I wouldn't have to search out everything and wonder if it was going to work or not. It looks and works great. I also had to knock a bigger hole through the firewall and put a grommet in to keep things tight and ease installation.

[Jochen Woern]

Thanks a lot for the picture Scott, looks great! What gauges are you using?

Thanks again.

[Nobby]

Jochen,
I see you got the paint, But if it is not to your liking You my try this. I have tan interior also. What I did was I took the triangular piece from behind the the mirror (it just pulls off) on the door and brought it to a local auto body paint supply store and they matched it perfect in a spray bomb, it was about 20 bucks. If you want I can send you pics of the pod.


Better still use the fuse cover on the side of the dash. No need to go pulling trim off then.

cheers
Nobby

[FLSTSS]

Thanks a lot for the picture Scott, looks great! What gauges are you using?

Thanks again.

I am using Isspro gauges--- boost, trans temp, and exhuast temp. I put it in pre turbo. These gauges also come with the orange/red needle to match the stock gauges. "egauges" is where I got the pod.

[Jochen Woern]

Thanks very much Scott and Nobby.