LLY Turbo Problem/Question

[brianmoberg]

Today I was towing 15k (moderate outside temperature, engine temp 210F according to the gauge, 65k on the odometer) when I heard a loud pop and my truck and trailer were fairly well enveloped in a black cloud of smoke. It took me a few minutes to figure out what had happened but soon found that the flexible coupler on the output side of the turbo had failed and allowed the metal pipe down to the air cooler to come free. As these things go I'm of course several states from home in a fairly small town. I'll try my luck with the small town dealer in the morning. What should I be aware of? Is this a common failure? (I searched but couldn't find anything.) I inserted the pipe back in the rubber coupler. The engine sounds perfectly normal however I have not towed since the failure and only tried very low throtle operation. What is the risk of contamination and major problems down the road? Should I pay the deductable to have the dealer look at it? What will/should he do besides simply refitting the coupler and clamp?

Thank you in advance for your help and your patience with my limited knowledge.

[JeepSJ]

Put it back together, tighten the clamp and roll on down the road. While you are there, make sure the rest of the clamps are tight. I would not say that it is common, but I have heard of that happening before. You didn't damage anything. All the dealer is going to do is put it back together and send you on your way. Save your $$.

[DmaxMaverick]

The two options you have, you've already considered. Hook it back up and drive on, or go to the dealer. I've heard of hoses blowing off, but it's not common by any means.

There is a 99% chance you can hook it up and never have an issue with it. However, that 1% can haunt you. If you take it to the dealer, pay your deductible, and have them take care of it, any other problem that could have resulted from it will be covered, even if it's a year later. Documentation is your only course with the dealers. Chances are, the dealer will just reconnect it and charge you for their shop minimum. Judgment call. Flip a coin, or whatever.

Now, if you decide to do it yourself, be sure to thoroughly clean the pipe and hose. Use some brake cleaner (on a rag, don't spray it) to ensure absolutely clean contact surfaces. Use OEM or similar constant tension clamps and NO LUBE. Regular worm screw clamps (radiator hose type) will not stay put over time, and any lube will cause the same problem later. Inspect the inside of the pipe. Be sure no debris is evident. The separation is downstream of the turbo, so anything that could have entered will normally get caught and stay in the plumbing or CAC, or just pass through the engine harmlessly. The turbo is what you have to worry about. There is a possibility of turbo overspeed, but it should have been making some noise by now. If it's running fine now, you probably don't have that issue. Another good reason to go to the dealer, just in case the turbo has a fit later. If you still have warranty (sounds like you do), it would be cheap insurance.

[Duramaster]

Hey!!! I work at a "DEALER" and I can tell you that if you brought the truck to me, I would follow the bulletin repair which is to clean the joints and apply sealant P/N 90067801 to the joints and then reassemble. After letting set for about four hours, all should be ok. :cool:

[DmaxMaverick]

Hey!!! I work at a "DEALER" and I can tell you that if you brought the truck to me, I would follow the bulletin repair which is to clean the joints and apply sealant P/N 90067801 to the joints and then reassemble. After letting set for about four hours, all should be ok. :cool:



No offense intended. You are obviously the exception, and not the rule.

I agree with the sealant, to a point. From GM's point of view, using sealant is the way to go. If you had to do it, knowing you will be the next person to deal with it later, your opinion may be different. A properly prepared and clamped CAC connection will work dry, and there's no sealant to mess with when you voluntarily disconnect it at a later time.

[Duramaster]

Yeah, notice that there were no problems with the LB7. The oil in the CAC from the closed PCV obviously doesn't help much. ;)