Hummer take out motor some advice please.

[rugger]

I just bought a take out 6.5 humvee motor from the government auction. THe sticker on the valve cover reads "RS Maine maintence center. Its a "506" block with a date code of E078. I got it home and pulled the heads, which had previously been pulled by the military. There apears to be no cracks in the heads pistons. and besides some light surface rust the cylinders still look very good with a nice cross hatch pattern. I did find some oil in the coolant passages and sludge in the oil pan from water. I inspected the mains today without pulling the crank and they appear to be uncracked. I plan on pulling the crank tomorrow for a better inspection. If there are no cracks i plan to put new main bearings, and oil pump in and reassemble to motor and put it into my CUCV. I plan on putting on ARP head bolts, and felpro gaskets, along with the folwing new/rebuilt parts i have laying around:injection pump, injectors,balancer, and timing chain. so i have the following questions.

-Is there anything i have to do besides remove the plug on the block to get oil from the 6.5td's stock location?

-Does anyone know if there is any difference between these and the civilian blocks?

-Is there anything else i should take care of or look for before puting it back together.

I appreciate all information and advice you have, I don't want to miss or forget anything.

Cheers, erik

[Dvldog 8793]

Howdy
REALLY look for cracks in the piston oiler areas of the mains. Upgrade to the 1997+ cooling system. Get the most from your pump and injectors. Hope this helps....
Good luck!
L8r
Conley Janssen

[rugger]

Pump and injectors are of the high performance varity. I had them rebuilt buy Accurate Diesel, and he did some magic on them, also have the dual thermostat housing all set up and ready to go. I pulled the crank every thing looks good with no cracks and good bearings. While i have the pan off I am going to install a stud girdle kit from DSG, can't hurt. I will have the complete engine back together this week and plan on running it on the engine stand prior to installing it into the vehicle. i will post updates then.... but so far it looks like 400 dollars well spent.

-anyone have an idea on turbo oil point on the block? I think if i remove the plug thats in it i should be able to get oil from it.

[DA BIG ONE]

I am not the expert here, but I read an article about cracked blocks that referenced that number series as between the bad blocks and the revised blocks, however, it is a GM block. Not too long after your number the blocks were being manufactured by AM General.

I'm thinking this is what I read........

[Eduardo]

This link may give you some answers

http://www.amghummer.com/Diesel/No8Cyl/CrackedBlock.htm