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View Full Version : Motor Mount Replacement Tips?



joed
09-17-2007, 07:52
Seems as though my 82 could benefit from new motor mounts as I'm noticing some vibration at idle.

I've been dreading this as it seems near impossible to access the bolts that mount to the frame bracket. I think there are 3 bolts?

Any tricks/tools that would make it easier to get to these? Does the starter have to be removed for the pass. side?

Thanks in advance.

Joe.

DennisG01
09-17-2007, 08:07
I'm guessing your 6.2 is going to be the same as my 6.5. Assuming that's the case, yes you are right - 3 bolts. As far as how to do it, I can't help - I replaced mine while my engine was out - it was just a wee bit easier!;)

Robyn
09-17-2007, 08:35
I have done it with the engines in the truck and it usually causes colorful expletives to cross my very prim and proper lips. :eek:

If you can get a helper its much easier.
Pull the main cross bolts from the mount assemblies and then lift the engine with a hoist.
I dont recommend jacking on the pan, even with a plate of board across it as it can cause damage if you get at all rough.
Remove the hood and lift the engine with a chain fall or other suitable device.

The bolts are accessible and with a helper you can get them out fairly easy. Be careful when you lift the engine not to mash the vacuum pump into the firewall.

Once the load is off the mounts and you have a little room they come right out.
If you dont mind a little more work, removing the exhaust manifolds will give you a buttload more working room and make getting wrenches on the bolts easier.

Good luck

Robyn

joed
09-18-2007, 06:45
Thanks for the tips. I'm still a little confused on how you can access the nuts on the backside of the frame bracket - not much room between it and the actual truck frame. I'm sure both the nuts and bolt heads will want to turn together, necessitating wrenches on both sides.

Maybe the mounts aren't that bad after all....

Joe.

Robyn
09-18-2007, 07:33
Thats what the helper is for :D

You will probably need to use an extension and a wobbly socket to get on the nut/bolt depending on how they are installed.

Be patient and you'll get it.

Robyn

DennisG01
09-18-2007, 07:50
Yup - wobbly socket or a universal socket that you wrap some tape around. Even with the engine out, I still needed a helper for some of the nuts. Use a flashlight and shine it up into the frame to see where you need to put the socket.

wthif
09-18-2007, 12:04
On a 4WD there is plenty of room underneath for an air-ratchet, but yours is 2WD. I was able to remove all three bolts with out help, just had to be creative, but then mine is 4WD and might be easier than 2WD.

dieselbegreat
09-18-2007, 12:28
better check your harmonic balancer and make sure it's timed correctly and looks good. I had one score the crank and go out of time, which shook pretty bad at idle.

joed
09-18-2007, 15:08
Thanks again.

Right about the 2wd - it does make it more of a pain to work on the underside. Last year I did the rear main seal - what an ordeal trying to get the oil pan off and on.

I also thought about the harmonic balancer - it looks to be okay.

I think I may have found the culpirt(s). I had my injectors tested - 3 were out of spec.

Hopefully that will smooth things out.

Joe.

DennisG01
09-19-2007, 05:26
I think I may have found the culpirt(s). I had my injectors tested - 3 were out of spec.


Just a side note - a local, reputable, diesel shop once told me that injectors will spec bad after only a few thousand miles of use - even if they are actually still quite good. Basically he meant don't change injectors simply based on specs - base it on performance and mileage. Now, maybe yours are VERY out of spec - in which case I hope you have found your problem. Either way, good luck!:)