Where is the relay?

[vernj4]

When I return from the store, I stop the truck. Than I remember, I must check the mail so I turn the key and nothing happens. And I note that the MIL is not illuminated. I leave the key in the on position and lo and behold, in 30 seconds to 5 minutes, I hear a "click", like a relay has shifted, the MIL comes on and I can now start the engine.

My manuals say nothing about a relay but it sure sounds like one has reset all by itself. Any ideas what may be the problem?

[moondoggie]

Good Day!

I can't directly answer your question; in fact, I don't think there's a relay involved. Our 95s are notorious for bad ignition switches. I haven't had trouble, but I've also removed my 95s keys to their own keychains, so there's virtually no weight hanging off the ignition switch. I guess next time you might try wiggling the key, banging on that monstrosity the steering wheel / ignition key / turn signal switch stalk / etc is in, etc etc.

Good Luck & Blessings!

[JohnC]

Don't worry about the key ring; the switch is remotely mounted from the lock.

('course, you may wear out the lock...)

Oh, no relay...

[gmctd]

Ditto on both ^ ^ - bad Ign switch is notorious for failure, likely culprit with your symptoms - what you hear is gp controller and other stuff turning on when switch contacts eventually make connection

[vernj4]

First of all, thank you all for your inputs. Purchased the "switch" from the local Chevy dealer for $225 + sales tax. Having the shop manuals for the truck, I felt I should be able to install the switch.

The first problem encountered was the need for a 'Snap-on' inverted torx....in fact there are 2 sizes needed. These little shooters will set you back $17 for each one!

The second problem was encounted at the end of the job; I found that I could not remove the ignition key since the key could not be rotated past the off position. Removed the key lock and re-inserted the assembly but this time, before pushing the assembly completely in, I rotated the key to the position where I could remove the key.

One other note; once the upper and lower column covers are removed, use a long 1/4 inch extension to remove both the screws hold the 2 halves of the connector as well as the screw that holds the connector to the body. Reduces the amount of time one has to lay on the back looking up.

I could not resist opening up the old switch; WOW what a complex design. There is a long cylinder which has 5 or 6 cams; each has balls and springs to assure contact. All contacts are gold plated.

I understand this general design is used in many of GM's vehicles. A local mechanic says when 100,000 miles has been reached, he finds the switch needs to be replaced. The symptoms are generally erratic behavior of the various systems; no dash lights; turning on heater blower causes the antilock light to illuminate; the cruise control operates intermittently; and in my case, stalling.