Brand new BIG turbo installed

[Slim shady]

First things first, I want to thank Hank148 for fabricating the essentials for my turbo upgrade, Hank148 made the turbo mount and an adapter plate along with the down pipe and flange to hook to the current exhaust system,

We tried to make this install a drop in replacement :confused: and we succeeded in that endeavor. I will post pictures in the next day or so. I just finished the install tonight and have driven the vehicle about 60 miles.

I have to say that the truck is hands down better than it was before, boost is smooth and peaks at around 18 with no load and the throttle to the floor. The engine breathes so much better and gets from 2000 to the redline in a quick second. The turbo makes boost 14 PSI all the way to the redline.

The truck used to make 5psi of boost at 70m and 2400 rpm now it makes 3 psi at the same speed and rpm. When accelerating the truck is much smoother and more responsive and much less diesel noise.


The turbo is a Mitsubishi Heavy industries TDO-7-22a, I have all of the Turbo specs such as the A/R, and trim for the compressor and the turbine wheel but have not did the math to put the numbers together.

The exhaust housing is a double scroll with one side much narrower than the other. This facilitates quick spool up and the larger side helps at top end.

My truck has 4.10 gear sets so this turbo was put together for 1700 rpm and up for the way I drive.

[Slim shady]

Here is the link to the pictures of the installed turbo.

http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/photopost/bulkupload.php?ppaction=addphotos&do=preview&photopath=9327&upuser=&notify=no&rating=&comments=yes&defcat=2&deftitle=BIG+Turbo+install+pictures&defdesc=BIG+Turbo+install+Pics&defdesc=BIG+Turbo+install+Pics&keywords=Turbo&numprocess=10&processall=no&dthumbs=

[john8662]

I can't see the images, would love to! :confused:

[DmaxMaverick]

Try THIS LINK (http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=9327).

[Slim shady]

Try THIS LINK (http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=9327).

http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=9327



Thanks DMAXMaverick

I forgot to add my images to my gallery, I had a long day and was tired.

The link above should work now, if not let me know. I will post more and at some different angles if there is interest.

[gmctd]

Congrats, dude - that is slick - that dual-flow scroll is the way to go on the 6.5 for low-rpm Boost and hi-rpm flow - didn't even know those existed - good job

[Robyn]

Nice looking job
Great pix, thanks for sharing.

How is the exhaust note?? what pipes are you running??

Robyn

[Slim shady]

Congrats, dude - that is slick - that dual-flow scroll is the way to go on the 6.5 for low-rpm Boost and hi-rpm flow - didn't even know those existed - good job


Thanks, the dual scroll is the best of both worlds. The fuel mods work great with this turbo. Thanks for all of the fuel tips.

In regards to Robyn's question

The exhaust is a little more noisy than it was but the vehicle has much less diesel noise at highway speed. I have the Jardine Exhaust and the exhaust really makes a difference now. I never realized how restricted the turbo was. Overall drive-ability is much better and the throttle response is much better.

[Hubert]

Thanks for sharing. Its always good to read. Even if no one posts many are interested.

I thought going from stock to 3"dp and 4" exhaust improved throttle response over stock pretty good. Would you say it was a comparable improvement to that? If so man that must be a pretty peppy feeling truck.

How about EGT's. Do you know the vehicles that turbo came from? Availibility?

[Slim shady]

Thanks for sharing. Its always good to read. Even if no one posts many are interested.

I thought going from stock to 3"dp and 4" exhaust improved throttle response over stock pretty good. Would you say it was a comparable improvement to that? If so man that must be a pretty peppy feeling truck.

How about EGT's. Do you know the vehicles that turbo came from? Availibility?

Changing to this turbo made the truck much more drive-able. By that I mean it is smoother and it almost is like driving a gasser, entering the freeway with 4.10 used to be an adventure, now it is a blast, gets up to the 3000 rpm mark and above before I know it. Have to be careful now, also at cruising speed of 70 it is much smoother. The truck also coasts if I let off the pedal where, it used to slow down considerably faster before. The only thing I can relate it to, is like having removed a Jake Brake. Maybe not that bad but similar.

I am just plain satisfied all around with the install and as you can see it retains all of the factory components. The only real problem was making the oil drain back tube since the turbo sits slightly higher than the stock turbo.

As for availability I am not sure what it came off of, I am not positive. I believe the turbo was used on some heavy equipment and a FUSO inline six cylinder. That is about as much as I know. The FUSO six is 460 cubic inches and the power band for the motor is in the 1700 rpm range, very close to our 1800. The gut feeling was that the turbo would fit my need for 2200 rpm to 2700 rpm perfectly.

I was quite pleased that I didn't lose the lower rpm power either, that was an unexpected plus. I know the dual scroll helped out there. Mitsubishi did their homework when they designed this turbo.

The exhaust gas temps are about 50 degrees lower at the same cruise than they were before. The motor also seems to run cooler although I don't have hard specs on that yet , I will after I hook up the scanner and check intake air temp and running coolant temp.

[Slim shady]

Thanks for sharing. Its always good to read. Even if no one posts many are interested.

I thought going from stock to 3"dp and 4" exhaust improved throttle response over stock pretty good. Would you say it was a comparable improvement to that? If so man that must be a pretty peppy feeling truck.

How about EGT's. Do you know the vehicles that turbo came from? Availibility?

Changing to this turbo made the truck much more drive-able. By that I mean it is smoother and it almost is like driving a gasser, entering the freeway with 4.10 used to be an adventure, now it is a blast, gets up to the 3000 rpm mark and above before I know it. Have to be careful now, also at cruising speed of 70 it is much smoother. The truck also coasts if I let off the pedal where, it used to slow down considerably faster before. The only thing I can relate it to, is like having removed a Jake Brake. Maybe not that bad but similar.

I am just plain satisfied all around with the install and as you can see it retains all of the factory components. The only real problem was making the oil drain back tube since the turbo sits slightly higher than the stock turbo.

As for availability I am not sure what it came off of, I am not positive. I believe the turbo was used on some heavy equipment and a FUSO inline six cylinder. That is about as much as I know. The FUSO six is 460 cubic inches and the power band for the motor is in the 1700 rpm range, very close to our 1800. The gut feeling was that the turbo would fit my need for 2200 rpm to 2700 rpm perfectly.

I was quite pleased that I didn't lose the lower rpm power either, that was an unexpected plus. I know the dual scroll helped out here. Mitsubishi did their homework when they designed this turbo.

The exhaust gas temps are about 50 degrees lower at the same cruise than they were before. The motor also seems to run cooler although I don't have hard specs on that yet , I will after I hook up the scanner and check intake air temp and running coolant temp.

[More Power]

A bigger turbo makes a big difference!

Something to consider is that the NA 6.5 will produce a torque peak at 1800-2000 rpm. On a turbocharged 6.5, the torque peak will generally coincide with the boost pressure peak/rpm. The marine non-wastegated turbo 6.5's at Peninsular produce a torque peak in the 2600-2700 rpm range - at least according to the engine dyno graphs I've seen. This isn't a problem for towing with an on-road 6.5 as long as the boost pressure is close to what it was with the factory turbo in rpm range you normally tow at. A more free flowing turbo will free up some hp, and as you mentioned, you'll see lower EGT's, especially at higher rpms.

Jim

[Slim shady]

I am interested to see how it performs in the hills and grades on I77 in Virginia and West Virginia. Some decent grades to try and I want to see if fuel mileage stays the same or goes up. I just have to keep my foot out of it to tell.

I am real happy with the outcome, and the fact it went in without a substantial list of modifications to the existing equipment. I also need to get the math on my A/R number and the trim on the exhaust turbine and the intake compressor.

[rustyk]

Who cares how it runs - it looks great! Now you need to replace the hood with one of clear plastic so your handiwork will show! :D

[Slim shady]

Thanks, I like it also, I didn't want to have a hack job. Loooks like a real truck under the hood.

[HANK1948]

Look great Slim Shady, Iam glad everything worked out and I could help.

It looks like I will be doing another one as well for mine!!

[DA BIG ONE]

TDO7-22A-17CM2 This turbo seems to be hard to find....................

[Slim shady]

I am sure that the internet resources and the people on this forum can figure out where the turbo can be purchased or where there is a replacement, if it is discontinued.

Maybe someone will chime in.

[Slim shady]

OK I did some preliminary work and I may have found a supplier for the turbo I installed. The company informed me today that he may be able to supply them if there is an interest in them.

If you are interested pm me and I will let you know. I am not in the business of selling the turbo. The price negotiation is between you and the company, I am in no way affiliated with or making any commission or monetary gain from this venture.

The buyer will need to mod the turbo.

[john8662]

The truck also coasts if I let off the pedal where, it used to slow down considerably faster before. The only thing I can relate it to, is like having removed a Jake Brake.

Exactly what I was thinking!

Well, the Jake Brake comment!

[Slim shady]

I couldn't figure out how to relate the feeling except for a Jake Brake.

I spoke with the company today that sold me the turbo. They are going to check and see if they can get more of the turbos. They may post something here about the availability. They are an excellent company to deal with, very customer orientated. The Turbo mods can be performed by a competent machinist.

I can't explain the difference it has made in the truck, much more fun to drive and the engine seems to breath much better. The double Scroll is the way to go in my opinion

[hockeyGTP]

I couldn't figure out how to relate the feeling except for a Jake Brake.

I spoke with the company today that sold me the turbo. They are going to check and see if they can get more of the turbos. They may post something here about the availability. They are an excellent company to deal with, very customer orientated. The Turbo mods can be performed by a competent machinist.

I can't explain the difference it has made in the truck, much more fun to drive and the engine seems to breath much better. The double Scroll is the way to go in my opinion

What all would need to be done in order to get this to fit onto the truck?

[Slim shady]

What all would need to be done in order to get this to fit onto the truck?

The turbo is a TO4 mount and our trucks are a TO3 mount, The TO 3 is smaller and the TO3 bolt pattern will fit inside the TO4 bolt pattern.

You either need to make an adapter plate from the smaller TO3 to the larger TO4 mount on the new turbo or have someone machine the mounting holes in the new turbo.

After that the turbo will bolt right up, the Turbo opening is only .300 thousands larger from front to back and approximately .250 thousands wider from side to side. You then need to have four mounting holes for the exhaust down pipe machined into the exhaust housing on the turbo, a down pipe to mate to the original exhaust,just like the stock turbo, an extension for the original oil drain back tube and an adapter for the oil feed.

If someone made all of the mods and sold it retail it would be a drop in replacement, this was what Hank1948 and I wanted was a drop in replacement. If you looked at the pictures that is what we accomplished, using existing stock air box, exhaust down pipe oil feed line and drain back tube. it doesn't get easier than that in my opinion.

I just put another 150 miles on the turbo with no problem and man does it run well, I won't know about fuel mileage until I kill a tank. I don't think it will be accurate though because I am always stepping on it now, highway cruising is fun, merging in traffic is fun and overpasses with the exhaust being more throaty are a blast.

[Slim shady]

Another highway update today, merged onto the freeway today 1500RPM in fourth gear, shifted in to fifth and accelerated ( pedal to the floor) made 14 psi boot and stayed 14 psi boost untill I let off at 3200 rpm. I was at 100mph on my speedo.

I think I will try and get a the truck put on a dyno, so there are some hard facts, not just seat of the pants.

[HammerWerf]

Slim,

Your new turbo sounds teriffic.

You sig line mentions an electronicly controled wastegate. This might be just as interesting for some folks. Would you describe, please.

HammerWerf

[Slim shady]

Slim,

Your new turbo sounds teriffic.

You sig line mentions an electronicly controled wastegate. This might be just as interesting for some folks. Would you describe, please.

HammerWerf


The new turbo is great, the waste gate controller is a a micro potentiometer with a forward biased zener diode to attenuate the voltage signal from the map / boost sensor. The forward biased zener diode keeps the voltage from going above the zener diode value, no matter where the potentiometer is set. This in essence makes the adjustment closer to stock at lower map/ boost signal voltages, and keeps the voltage from going above the forward bias rating of the zener diode. The diode grounds through a 1000 ohm resistor for the load and to keep the diode from being damaged.

It has worked well for me so far. I need it with the new turbo and the sustained boost levels above the stock computer settings. I don't have a chip in my truck yet.

[Slim shady]

I towed a little over 12,000 pounds yesterday with HANK1948 to give the new turbo a work out. The turbo worked great, sustained boost of 14 to 15 psi under full throttle acceleration and the exhaust temps don't exceed 1000 degree pre turbo under full throttle acceleration.

The coolant temps were normal, I did not get a chance to measure intake air charge temps, although the intercooler was not hot or warm to the touch after the test.

The exhaust note under acceleration was more like a glass pack on a gasser than a steady diesel drone. Still looking for a dyno, to get real world numbers.

[Shikaroka]

Still looking for a dyno, to get real world numbers.

I wish you were closer. I'd give you a couple free runs just to see for myself.

[Slim shady]

I wish you were closer. I'd give you a couple free runs just to see for myself.

If you are serious I would be willing to travel. I have plans to go to North Carolina in the very near future. PM me and let me know.

[ratman]

Slim, I am very impressed, -very very nice work. The cleanliness of the install is top notch, -I got a lot of respect for that.

It's great news to hear it's working so great. I just know I'm going to be up against the wall on my setup really soon. My 18:1 motor is on the final stretch as far as being done, -and the little GM4 simply isn't going to cut it.

As far as your WG controls go, -I got lost in the first sentence! An electronics guy I am not. I can handle all the machine work though, -piece of cake.

Awesome job man.

JD is gonna slaughter me, -I said motor!

Rich.

[Shikaroka]

If you are serious I would be willing to travel. I have plans to go to North Carolina in the very near future. PM me and let me know.

Sure! I still need to get an optical pickup, so I can do diesels. I should be doing that soon. Just let know when you'll be heading this way.

[Slim shady]

Sure! I still need to get an optical pickup, so I can do diesels. I should be doing that soon. Just let know when you'll be heading this way.


I will contact you by PM, to let you know the details. Find me a good hotel and a good place to eat. Count on it.

[Slim shady]

Slim, I am very impressed, -very very nice work. The cleanliness of the install is top notch, -I got a lot of respect for that.

It's great news to hear it's working so great. I just know I'm going to be up against the wall on my setup really soon. My 18:1 motor is on the final stretch as far as being done, -and the little GM4 simply isn't going to cut it.

As far as your WG controls go, -I got lost in the first sentence! An electronics guy I am not. I can handle all the machine work though, -piece of cake.

Awesome job man.

JD is gonna slaughter me, -I said motor!

Rich.

Well THANK YOU for the compliment. It was a team effort by Hank1948 and I.

The waste gate controller is real simple. In layman's terms which I always talk in except here at times. The controler is a variable resistor with a diode that opens and dumps to ground when the voltage on the boost sensor reaches 3.2 volts on the boost signal.

The diode then closes when the voltage is not enough to keep it open. I really probably didn't need the variable resistor but, that was the design the Honda Guys were using.

I tried to find the web site to give credit to them because it wasn't my idea.

[JohnC]

... the waste gate controller is a a micro potentiometer with a forward biased zener diode ....


OK, I'll bite. I've looked at the photos and can't find any evidence of a wastegate. Are you running the turbo unwastegated? If so, I'm guessing the electronics are just there to fool the PCM so it doesn't set the overboost codes, no?

[Slim shady]

OK, I'll bite. I've looked at the photos and can't find any evidence of a wastegate. Are you running the turbo unwastegated? If so, I'm guessing the electronics are just there to fool the PCM so it doesn't set the overboost codes, no?

I apologize for the over site I was not trying to be evasive: JohnC you are correct. The new turbo is not a waste-gated turbo, the controller is only used now to fool the pcm so it doesn't set the over boost code.

I started with the boost or waste gate control when I had the Gm_8 turbo on the truck, so I could fool the pcm into seeing a lower voltage signal and by varying the voltage signal the pcm was seeing it intern controlled the amount of waste gate actuation.

I continue to use the boost fooler because I still need to modify the boost levels ( voltage signal) the PCM sees. With the setup I am able to modify the voltage input to the PCM from the boost sensor, at idle or leave the voltage levels normal until ( boost levels / sensor voltage input to the PCM, hits the voltage level that opens the Zener Diode.

I currently have a 3.2 volt diode in the boost signal return line to the PCM. The most voltage the PCM will ever see is the voltage value of the zener diode 3.2 volts even though the sensor is capable of showing the PCM 4.8 volts.

It is the same as adding a variable resistor to modify the voltage the PCM sees in regards to manifold boost.The problem with modifying the voltage signal with a variable resistor is that it affects the voltage signal to the pcm throughout the whole operating range. With a zener diode and resistor it only works when the diode has reached the set voltage of 3.2 volts.

So if I set the variable resistor at no resistance, the sensor sees the normal boost signal up to the 3.2 volt range then the diode opens and dumps voltage to ground through the load (1000 ohm resistor) fooling the PCM.

If I set the resistor at 500 ohms resistance the voltage signal is modified at all times. If the voltage level is modified enough the zener diode voltage value is never reached the zener diode part of the circuit never works.

I hope this makes sense. I don't know how else to explain it. Maybe someone with more electrical experience would be able to give a clearer example

[moondoggie]

Good Day!

"Maybe someone with more electrical experience would be able to give a clearer example..." I'm probably not that person, but maybe I can add to what was written.

A perfect diode allows no current flow when reverse-biased. In other words, if you put + voltage on the band end of the diode & - voltage on the non-banded end, no current flows. In a real diode, a current does flow, but it's way smaller than most of us can measure.

A perfect diode allows infinite current flow when forward-biased, with no measureable voltage drop across the diode, so zeners are almost never used in this mode. In other words, if you put - voltage on the band end of the diode & + voltage on the non-banded end, infinite current will flow. In a real diode, the current flow is limited (often with a resistor), & a silicone diode will have ~ 0.7 voltage drop across it, which means if you put your DVM across the diode, you'd measure ~ 0.7V.

A zener diode is a real cool device. When forward-biased, it acts pretty much like a normal diode. When reverse-biased, however, this changes. Below the voltage the zener is rated for, it acts pretty much like a normal diode; at or above the rated voltage, the smoke inside the diode changes & allows current flow, limited mostly by the attached resistor. The smoke inside the zener keeps the voltage measured across it right close to its rated voltage, the rest of the voltage above this will appear across the resistor.

You can see how handy this is. In the case described in this topic, he has a resistor connected to the MAP signal & to the banded end of the zener, with the non-banded zener lead grounded. So, he's allowing all MAP signals below 3.2V to go to the PCM essentially unchanged - the PCM is still seeing exactly what's going on with his boost. When the boost is high enough that the MAP signal exceeds 3.2V, however, the PCM never sees it - the zener (& the PCM's MAP signal) stays at 3.2V, & the voltage above that appears across the resistor he's chosen.

In reality, it gets WAY more complicated than that, but maybe this might help a few folks understand what he did. Kudos, by the way - this was a VERY imaginative use of a zener. Now, of course, the only control on the grenade is his footfeed & his eye on his boost gauge. :eek:

Hope this helps; Blessings!

[JohnC]

I actually got the zener part. I was thinking that when the diode conducted it somehow opened a wastegate, putting a ceiling on boost. When I went to look for the mechanical side, I found nothing...

Sounds like a good project for someone else...

[Slim shady]

Good Day!



Hope this helps; Blessings!

THANK YOU Moondoggie!

Excellent explanation,could you also explain the reason for the variable resistor and how it modifies the Boost signal / waste gate actuator. I don't know if people know, there are two systems working in conjunction to modify and limit the amount of boost the PCM sees.

Like I said it wasn't my idea, it came from a Honda web site and I failed to book mark it to give credit to the inventor. I liked how you can play with an infinite adjustment of the waste gate up to the boost limit,or just limit the top end boost.

[JohnC]

Stop calling it a waste gate!

;)

[moondoggie]

Good Day!

"...could you also explain the reason for the variable resistor and how it modifies the Boost signal / waste gate actuator..." Nope. Your explanation of your zener circuit was so good I simply tried to fill in some blanks; I've never seen how folks do this with a pot (variable resistor / potentiometer). I can, however, guess.

I think all such devices are "boost foolers" & as such modify the MAP signal to the PCM in such a way that the PCM thinks the engine's getting less boost than it actually is. Remember, the PCM is programmed to reduced boost if it's inputs tell it that a dangerous condition, such as overboost, exists; it does this by reducing vacuum to the wastegate actuator. So:

1) It may be that the pot is being used as a variable voltage divider. If so, the MAP sensor output would go to one end of the pot, the other end grounded, & the PCM is connected to the pot's wiper. (I consider this the most likely-used circuit.) In this way, adjusting the pot adjusts the portion of the MAP signal that is passed on to the PCM.

2) It may be that the pot is wired as a variable resistor, wired in series between the MAP output & the PCM input. In this way the pot is working in conjunction with the MAP output impedance (fancy word for resistance, in this case) & the PCM input impedance. (This would be a REALLY poor way of doing this, hence it's unlikely this is what's being done.)

"Stop calling it a waste gate!" I gladly defer to your better knowledge base: what are we supposed to call it? :confused:


Blessings! :D
(signature in previous post)

[More Power]

1) It may be that the pot is being used as a variable voltage divider. If so, the MAP sensor output would go to one end of the pot, the other end grounded, & the PCM is connected to the pot's wiper. (I consider this the most likely-used circuit.) In this way, adjusting the pot adjusts the portion of the MAP signal that is passed on to the PCM.


The above is how we did it in a published a tech story in 2000. :)

Jim

[JohnC]

So what should we call it?

A wastegate is a mechanical device that shunts exhaust gasses around the turbine section of the turbocharger, reducing the drive force and hence the boost. The PCM controls the wastegate based on the signal it gets from the manifold pressure sensor.

What is happening here is the turbo is running without a wastegate. Nothing other than turbo design and sizing is controlling the boost pressure. The electronics only fool the PCM into thinking it has control. Neither the sensed pressure nor the modified signal seen by the PCM has any effect on the turbo output.

Call it what you will; it ain't no wastegate! ;)

[Slim shady]

A wastegate is a mechanical device that shunts exhaust gasses around the turbine section of the turbocharger, reducing the drive force and hence the boost. The PCM controls the wastegate based on the signal it gets from the manifold pressure sensor.

What is happening here is the turbo is running without a wastegate. Nothing other than turbo design and sizing is controlling the boost pressure. The electronics only fool the PCM into thinking it has control. Neither the sensed pressure nor the modified signal seen by the PCM has any effect on the turbo output.

Call it what you will; it ain't no wastegate! ;)

Ok here goes,

When I had the control/ signal modifying device on the truck with the old GM-8 turbo which had a waste gate and a mechanical device which by virtue of a electrical device that in term varied the amount of vacuum supplied to the afore mentioned device. The signal modifying device controlled the mechanical device which in term made modifications to the mechanical waste gate position in the turbo either increasing the turbo's potential for boost or decreasing the turbo's potential for boost by the modification of the map / boost signal.

Now any time you can control with reasonable accuracy or modify a devices pre programed normal state of operation it becomes a control or modification of the said devices normal operation. Hence it becomes a boost / waste gate ACTUATION modifier.

With all due respect to all parties concerned, in my humble non professional opinion.

:D:eek:

[gmctd]

A wastegate bypasses exhaust gasses, such that they don't pass thru the turbine wheel - it is a mechanical device used to control gas-turbine output power, which controls compressor output - the MAP sensor is part of a closed-loop system, where PCM measures Boost in the manifold to control a solenoid which meters vacuum to the wastegate servo actuator - the actuator is nothing but a diaphragm in a closed cylinder with a pull rod, which is connected to the wastegate arm - the other end of the cylinder is open to Baro pressure - thus, Baro pressure aids exhaust pressure on the flapper valve to operate the wastegate - it is a closed-loop servo system - the Boost fooler only offsets system parameters -the 'F' Baro sensor can also be used to offset system parameters in the same manner as the 'fooler on the MAP

A Boost-fooler in a non-wastegated system only offsets system parameters so PCM won't set a DTC and pull fuel - it cannot control Boost because the control element has been removed - the mechanical wastegate valve.

Only method of Boost control in a non-wastegated system is your right foot - ease off the pedal when the motor starts smokin' and knockin' and steamin' - the Boost-fooler may offset the parameters, but that PCM between your ears is required for the resultant control - knowwhuttimean, jellybeans?

[moondoggie]

Good Day!

As often happens, I forgot part of the picture - the topic is about an engine with a non-wastegated turbo, some of my stuff was about trucks with intact wastegate systems. Oh, well... The principal of how to fool the PCM remain, however. ;)

Blessings!
(signature in previous post)

[DA BIG ONE]

Been lookin at a new TD0-7-22A-17CM and can't figure out how exhaust down pipe would attach?

[Slim shady]

Been lookin at a new TD0-7-22A-17CM and can't figure out how exhaust down pipe would attach?

Send me a pm and I will give you the details if you are inclined to do the machine work yourself. If not I can have hank who fabbed mine do yours so that it is a direct bolt on.

[DA BIG ONE]

Lookin at that TD0-7-22a-17cm as part of a compound setup using the GM-8 in its stock location. Boost control would be through the GM-8's adjustable gate w/conservative boost levels of compound system through the IC thinking it should yield some nice performance if I can get past the bottle neck downpipe issue.

Maybe 3" downpipe from turbine w/another pipe say 2" down from turbine gate into a 4" exhaust system.

[HANK1948]

Maybe 3" downpipe from turbine w/another pipe say 2" down from turbine gate into a 4" exhaust system.

I made a 3" 90 deg mandrel bend elbow to bolt right up to the factory downpipe

[Slim shady]

We will have some Dyno data soon thanks to a diesel page member. Then the facts (good or bad) will be concrete.