Radiator Support Removal tips & tricks Please

[wthif]

I'v removed all of the bolts holding the radiator support to near by pieces and can move the radiator support a few inches back and forth at the top and a little less on the bottom of it. One of the rubber isolator bolts will not come out; got bottom part of rubber isolator off, but center section is still there. Even if the bolt was out I don't think I could get enough room to get the radiator support out from between the fenders.

So need suggestions on the rubber isolator bolt and how to maneuver the radiator support out from between the fenders.

Thanks

[john8662]

Your talking the center "core" support, part that holds a/c, radiator, headlights etc.

There are quite a few of those little bolts you gotta remove to get support off. Double-check that you got them all, some that like to hide are located on the engine side of the core, some even up underneath the lip towards the top.

The two isolated rubber bolts that you're talking about are the large ones that mount to the frame. They should both come out. An impact is recommended, sometimes they break off tho.

For removal, angle the core support at the top towards you (standing in front of vehicle), the bottom should be the last to come out.

Whatcha removing the core for?

[wade-ve7trw]

removing rad support on what:confused::confused:

[wthif]

Your talking the center "core" support, part that holds a/c, radiator, headlights etc.
Yes


There are quite a few of those little bolts you gotta remove to get support off. Double-check that you got them all, some that like to hide are located on the engine side of the core, some even up underneath the lip towards the top.
Got them all, at least I'm 99.9% sure


The two isolated rubber bolts that you're talking about are the large ones that mount to the frame. They should both come out. An impact is recommended, sometimes they break off tho.
I got the nuts off without a problem. The first bolt was a little hard to get to come out and the second doesn't even want to budge. I'll try to take some pictures to show you my problem.


For removal, angle the core support at the top towards you (standing in front of vehicle), the bottom should be the last to come out.
Thanks


Whatcha removing the core for?
I'm putting a 4bt in and decided it would be easier to fab up motor mounts if the radiator support was out of my way. If I was just putting in an engine I wouldn't bother, too much trouble.


removing rad support on what
Removing the radiator support on my '82 GMC. The '51 looks to be a lot easier, but it will have to wait another day.

[wthif]

Driver's Side with bolt removed.
442

Passenger Side with bolt.
443

After looking at the picture I got some ideas on how to remove the bolt. The bolt appears to be rusted to the metal piece in the middle. I think I will put some vise-grips on it and try to turn the bolt again to see if I can break it loose.

Any other ideas?

thanks again

[wade-ve7trw]

wd-40 the bolt;vise grips; skinned knuckles should do it. After buy new. Did you get the bolts under the battery boxes down in the corners-outer fender to rad support

[ccatlett1984]

if your going through all that trouble, pulling the fenders would make your life a lot easier. Been there, will pull the fenders first next time.

[john8662]

Got room to get your favorite hammer in there? Perhaps a 1/2" ratchet extension and then hammer to get in the spot.

Should just knock right out, WD or PB Blaster would work too.

4BT?

We probably need to talk about whatcha thought of the TE06H and stuff you had mounted. I've got the turbo, just don't want to mod the downpipe and take the time to install it, curious...

J

[wthif]

We probably need to talk about whatcha thought of the TE06H and stuff you had mounted. I've got the turbo, just don't want to mod the downpipe and take the time to install it, curious...

J

Loved the turbo on my engine, made great boost when you put your foot down, with little to no smoke. Egts were good never went above 1000, never towed a load with it though. Had enough power where I didn't want to turn it up more. My waste-gate is shimmed a bit to make it open later, I think it is fully open at 17 psi, but could peg out a 15 psi gauge with out a problem.

When the Cummins 4BT is in I would be possibly be willing to get rid of my old down-pipe if I haven't cannibalized it. It isn't the most pretty looking down pipe because I've refitted (welded) at least twice to make it clear things better. Probably wont come close at the bottom end though. I made my exhaust from scratch.

[wthif]

Things are better now:
446

Thanks for all the help. Didn't even have to give blood this time.:D

[john8662]

Thanks for all the help. Didn't even have to give blood this time.:D

Aww, don't ya know. It ain't worth doing unless it's worth bleeding over!

Progress indeed. So, what happened to the 6.2?

J

[wthif]

So, what happened to the 6.2?

J

The engine had a lot of blow by for some time, but still had power so I drove it for a while longer, until one day I decided it would leave along the side of the road and I didn't want to ruin an other wise perfect record with my truck so I stopped driving it. That is until I needed to pick up the 4BT and some metal. When I was coming back from the metal yard within 5 miles of home the engine tried to runaway a couple of times. Very high RPMs (acceleration too) for about 30 seconds then engine speed would come back down. I pulled over an shut it off before it ate all of its oil. Popped the hood and there had been so much crank case pressure that it shot the dipstick out by the MC there was oil all over. Long story short it started to die and I had it towed home.

I'm thinking of doing a postmortem, but haven't decided yet. I don't think the extra power was the cause of the problems, but it accelerated the demise of the engine.