Looking at buying 82 k20 scottsdale...

[Darren5531]

I might be going to look at this truck tomorrow depending on how the day works out. I have been reading up and trying to find information about what to look for in these trucks but I haven 't been able to find a good "tell-all" thread. It does have a little bit of rust and needs some work but nothing to major.

3/4 ton 3.73 gears 6.2 and I'm assuming th400 auto. Appears to be bone stock and it has 120k miles on it. Said the filters were changed a year or two ago and doesn't have very many miles on them.

What would be some reasonable things to look at/ ask about? I don't wanna check a bunch of things and crawl under the truck and do this and that if I don't have to.

He is had an offer of $1100 for it with money being paid in a couple weeks, but he said that money talks and bull**** walks so I will offer him $800 on the spot if I don't find any problems.

Thanks in advance for the help,

Darren

[Darren5531]

Anybody? I know to check for frame rust and engine block cracks.

[twaddle]

Hi Darren,
Look for signs of oil or coolant under the truck, not just under the engine but under the transmission and the axles (and transfer box if it's a 4WD). Lift the hood and pull the transmission and engine dipsticks, check the color of the oil, is the transmission fluid a reddish or golden color or is it milky or dark and burnt smelling. If the trans oil smells burnt there may be a slipping clutch, brake band or torque converter. Not the end of the world but you can haggle a bit to allow for it.
The engine oil will probably be jet black, that's OK, if it is milky or the filler cap has a white scum there may be water in the oil.

Check the coolant level and signs of antifreeze. Make sure there is no oil in the coolant.

Check the crankshaft damper, if the truck has been lying a while the rubber can perish as can the tires so check them as well.

Engine should fire up quickly after the glow plugs cycle and settle into a fast idle with no smoke after less than a minute, if the engine temperature sender is still connected up to the fuel pump fast idle should cut back to a normal idle speed once the engine warms up. Check for any external leaks and also ensure the oil pressure is showing on the gage. You're looking for around 40psi at around 2000rpm when warm. Be careful the gage may not be working properly, if at all.

The transmission should change up through the gears form cold, listen for any rumblings from noisy bearings along with any whines from the rear axle and if it's a 4wd the front axle too.

If you buy the truck first thing to do is change all filters and all oils including axles and grease prop shafts and steering jooints. It is money well spent, then check the levels regularly in case there are oil leaks or oil is transferring between compartments (in the case of a 4WD model).

Regarding corrosion the chassis may have surface rust but is heavy enough that this should not be anymore than surface rust. If it's a pick up truck check the mount points at the cab where the bolts go up into the cab and the lower rear corners of the cab are prone to catching all the mud and road spray which leads to corroded areas.

Good luck, it sound like a good buy.

Jim

[DarylB]

Check around the steering sector mounting bolt-holes. Those tended to be a weak-point in the 1973-1987 Chevrolet pickup frames. Sometimes they break there when abused.

[Darren5531]

I ended up walking away from the deal after learning it has been sitting for a year and a half. He grinded the starter trying to start it, poured out white smoke all the time even after running for awhile. Tires were close to flat tried to fill them but couldn't find a decent air compressor at a gas station.

Driving it is a whole other story. Put a the pedal down a lil the rpms just go up then all of a sudden it catches and you jolt forward. Doesn't do it all the time but those few times it did worried me. Went to hit the brakes found out they were about gone. Pushed the pedal down all the way possible and just started to slow down enough to come to a stop from 20-30 mph. Combined with **** leaking from everywhere. Not even sure what it was leaking but the bed was probably rusted completely through under the rubber mat.

Overall really discouraged about 6.2's in general. I talked to a owner of one for a couple hours tonight and he said that unless you have a manual they are pretty much worthless for power. I had my foot to the floor trying to pass a car at 25 and I couldn't do it at all. I might have to start looking into Fords:(

Can't afford dodges...

[neo]

I don't think you should let this incident discourage you. While it is probably a general consensus (from what I have read) the 6.2/6.5 don't hold up to the C4bt or C6bt, they are way more affordable and very good for lower duty needs. I am vey happy with the one I have in an 89 burb (3/4T V2500) and find it has plenty of power for my needs, is cheap to keep, and very straightforward and easy to work on. In fact, the original reason I purchased it was to pull the engine and tranny and slap them in a 89 wagoneer. After getting the V2500 running and driving it for a short bit, I found it was awesome, and could not kill it for its engine.
The 6.2 has its quircks, but is a very affordable light/medium duty diesel that gets great mpg (relatively)- like 21 in my 3/4t V2500! Injectors are cheap and parts are plentiful. Don't give up. There are loads of them out there, that can be had for a few hundred $$. I paid $800 for my V2500 and just bought a 6.2 mil engine from camp lejuen for $80. Unfortunately, I put a ton into machine work on the mil engine, but it will be well worth it. Good luck and keep us posted.
Neo

[DmaxMaverick]

I would have jumped on that deal in a heartbeat, despite your first impression. With a few $ and a couple hours, it's likely to have been a sweet runner. The price is very good for what it is at a first glance. This is what I see, from your description.

Tires will be tires. No surprises here. They are good or bad. You'll have to buy a set sooner or later.

Smoke and starter. White smoke is easily diagnosed. Probably bad glow plugs or GP controller (reason for "grinding" the starter). The continued smoke is likely from sitting for so long with poor fuel (water?), plugged filter(s), timing off, etc. All of which is easy and cheap to remedy. While you are looking at the GP's, do a compression test. Easy, and it's nearly free.

RPM's and shifting. Probably needs a tranny service. Sounds like it was down on fluid and/or some stuck valves. Easy remedy. Always consider a tranny service on any used vehicle you buy. Even so, TH400's are cheap and easy to overhaul.

Power. Plugged filters, poor fuel quality, fuel pump (mechanical) and/or timing. Simple to remedy. Filters should be replaced a lot more often than the owner claimed he had on them. The 6.2L has very good power for what it is. It's only rated for ~140 HP in that trim. Torque will be good and MPG will be outstanding. It is what it is. It won't win any races, but it will get from point A to B w/o spending much time at the pump. Driving around on flat tires will also have some impact on power (probably more than you think).

Brakes. They are what they are. Let any vehicle sit for a couple years, and you are likely to have brake issues. A brake job is another given on any used vehicle. The rear brakes are probably frozen and not even working now.

Leaks. What was leaking and from where? Most leaks are easily fixed.

Did you see bed rust, or assume it because it has a mat? You don't need CSI to investigate that one. Not difficult to repair or replace. The beds are available and not too costly.

The truck is worth every penny you are offering. It's worth more than that in parts and scrap. You are looking at an old truck that's been sitting for a while. For ~$1000, you are lucky to find one that even runs. You'll probably spend more on front end repair than anything, and you didn't mention anything about steering problems. If you want a free lunch, don't ask to see the menu. That truck will in all likelyhood be an excellent starter. For the money you are talking about, expect no more.

[wade-ve7trw]

Is This K20 scottsdale going to be a daily driver( with no work) or a project 4x4 or a starter diesel truck? As DmaxMavrick pointed out all things are relevant. With a little TLC you will have a sweet ride. Parts Alone are worth ever penny you plan on offering. I Know-Many times i have bought a piece of junk (Other person's words) just for some good parts to put on another project. If you look in the picture posts section you can see the latest toy on it way to the shop-(motor and tranny have 5000km on them)--paid 2500cdn. I estimate that when it gets on the road I will have put another 2500cdn into it, just to get it into the condition that I want it in. What part of the country do you live in--someone on the TDP may have some parts that you need or more important help and knowledge. Above All: Don't Give Up

[Darren5531]

I would be buying it as a part time 4x4 project that I will lift and put some 33-36" tires on and do some wheeling/mudding in it. I know for the price and my application I should just go buy a gasser and be happy with it, but I need to be able to afford to just drive it sometimes. I live in central Iowa so trails and wheeling areas are hard to come by. Along with decent trucks.

I know that truck was probably worth the money but coming from me it wasn't. I have been looking for about 5 months now. To say the least its the first truck I have looked at and drove. I was originally going to buy a fsj truck(j-20) but gas mileage really worried me. Read about some people swapping in 6.2's in them so hopped on this board and have been reading ever since.

With my limited knowledge and money I felt it was to much of a project for me. With all of the problems being nothing that I have researched.

How much would replacing all the filters and plugs be? Rough estimate 300-500 dollars. Another $100-$200 for a glow plug controller.

Brakes: Not exactly sure on what would all have to be done. At worst new brakes for all 4 wheels used. Guessing 300-500 dollars again

Tires I know I would have to get new ones anyways so not a big deal.

Tranny: I would have tried swapping in a 700r4 anyways so maybe its not that big of deal. I would rather have a manual anyways.

As for the leaking I don't even know. It has a big tank filled with who knows what, cement blocks, random other stuff in the bed that was all covered in sticky oily substance. I couldn't exactly see where things were coming from but it was dripping all over the pumpkin on the axle. Then there was some liquid all over under the brake fluid container. He said that a guy that looked at it put some more in and when he put the lid back on some spilled out. After crawling partly under the front end. It looked like right by the transfer case was completely covered in a black sutt (sp?). Almost looked like it was caked on oil but I wasn't sure. It looked it like it had been leaking but then the oil was dry after he moved it.

I think after a good long cleaning in and out it would be a decent truck. I have been thinking about buying it then trying to clean it and flip it for a profit. If I can get it for cheap I may buy it. I will call him again next week to see if a guy came up with the money or not.

Overall here is what I am thinking money wise:

Filters, Plugs, controller, etc. $400

Brakes: New brake lines maybe drums from junkyard depending on the problem $200

Transmission: Take out the 350 and put in a 4 speed manual $600-$700 for everything also a lot of time work and not so professional outcome.

Tires: Might be able to fill them up good enough to drive for a while. If not cheapest tires i can find that will fit. $100

I will probably be unhappy with the power so adding a turbo another $500+

So figure $1200-$1700 before I can even do what I want it for. Plus purchasing the rig for $800. So I've basically put in $2k+ into a rig that I could have just boughten with a manual saving me 1/4 of the price.

Plus body work, lifting, tires, steering, etc. So basically 4k which is way more then what I can spend on a 4x4 project right now.

I really thank you for posting up your advice, I hope that you can give me some more advice on what I should do. I apologize if it feels like I am being so pessimistic about everything.

Thanks again for all your help,

Darren

[john8662]

Another tip on a used project truck.

Don't consider one if you don't plan on doing nearly all the work yourself. That is, if you doing it on a budjet, because otherwise the deal starts looking less and less "economical."

Around here, if it's a "truck" and it runs, it's worth $1500.

Maybe go drive on that's priced in the 5k range to get one that runs good enough to see if you like the power output of the 6.2L.

[jf-schaack]

Darren,
Although the truck didn't work out for you, it did for me. I live in Des Moines where the truck was located. I saw the truck advertised locally and saw this post the night I went to look at it which was nice because some excess questions I didn't have answered already were by others. I ended up 'stealing' the truck for $700 cash. I figure it will cost me about $400 to get it in fully reliable and driveable condition after some tires, a battery, belts, hoses, fluid changes, and a little TLC. What didn't work for one, worked for another. Now I have myself a great farm and hunting truck.

One question for the readers out there. This K20 does have an automatic tranny which says hydromatic on the pan. From what I've read these trucks had a 700r4 for an automatic, is this correct? Also, when I first drove the truck I checked fluids and the tranny fluid barely touched the stick when warm and idling. The truck had barely moved in two years except for a few test drives. With these auto trannys are there any particular places where they generally leak or any other concerns I should have or look for? The mid 80's truck I had before was a manual so I'm not familiar with the autos.

Lastly, can anyone tell me how much fluid the front/ rear diffs, transfer case, and tranny holds on an 1982 K20 w/ a 6.2? I'm sure there will be more questions to come.

Thanks,
James

[Darren5531]

James its nice to meet you, I'm glad it worked out for you. This is going to be my first project and it didn't seem like it would be worth it to me. After you get it fixed up, I would really enjoy possibly meeting up or just seeing what you have done with it. Just a quick question for you though, what do you think was causing the excess white smoke? When I drove it the white smoke never cleared up and there were problems everywhere I looked(but for a $700 truck its expected). Is the large amount of white smoke and driving that one typical of how 6.2's are?

As for your question about transmissions. I believe it has the T350 in it, could possibly have the th400 but I know for sure it wasn't the 700r4. Check in the glove box it still has the data sheet intact and readable.

[ccatlett1984]

the white smoke could be leaky injectors.

[arveetek]

The stock automatic transmissions in the 82-87 trucks were 700R4 in 1/2 tons and TH400 in 3/4 tons and up. That K20 should have a TH400.

Casey

[jf-schaack]

Darren,
I'm not totally sure why it smoked white the whole time for you, but I could tell the truck hadn't been operated, other than you, in a long time. May just have been from sitting around with crappy fuel. Also, the air filter was super dirty so it may not have been getting all the air it needed causing white, non-burnt fuel, smoke. Other than a little white puffing when I start it up it runs great with no smoke unless the pedal is to the floor. I just started tonight doing some general maintenance with oil change, cleaning up battery cables which were crazy corroded and I think causing the battery problems, bled brakes, etc. Ran out of light and time, will have to wait for another day for the rest. I'll keep in touch and let you know how the old beast is progressing.

James