View Full Version : Early Revcon Diesel Swap
All,
I've got a 'flat nose' Revcon 250 (not GMC) motor home. It uses the second generation Toronado drivetrain, with the Olds 455.
The first question I have is, of the 6.2 or 6.5, which has the least amount of electronics? I'm not afraid of ECU's and sensors, but I'm trying to keep the engine as simple as possible. Do I have any other options, If I'm looking for an engine that's more mechanical by nature?
Assuming it turns out the 6.2 or 6.5 is actually a good idea, it appears I can easily bolt the GM block to the BOP bell housing, with an adapter plate. What I don't know is if the GM converter will slide into the Toronado chain drive unit. The TCI site makes me thing it will bolt right up. I'm not so sure.
What about engine mounts? Are the engine mounting points on the 455 and GM diesels (GM small block?), even close? I don't know anything about the Chevy/GM/BOP differences. Though, the pined thread tells me about the high points of the 6.2/6.5 engines. :)
The brakes, alt, AC, and all that other stuff, will be pretty easy, after I get the engine mounting details ironed out. Time consuming, but less of a worry, when compared to the engine/wiring details
It's a great tip to buy a diesel whatever, and do 2 swaps. If done right, I might get quite a bit of my money back. Excellent idea, indeed.
Great Forums. Thanks in advance for the help
BigRabbitMan
09-04-2007, 22:42
FEF,
Good to see you looking at a diesel conversion to your motor home. I am also and my info is posted in the thread about "converting and early 1976 Motorhome". As you can see mine is an FMC, another of the classic older motorhomes. I came close to buying a Revcon. Great coach. Good luck on your conversion and I hope your questions get answered by those that have the information.
convert2diesel
09-05-2007, 09:14
If my memory serves me correctly, the Toronado/Eldorado setup used the THM400, thus the 400 torgue convertor is a straight bolt up if you used the 6.2/6.5. As far as the mounts are concerned, if you can find a late 70s early 80s olds 307 or 350 diesel, they used a motor mount relocation bracket that allowed them to install these engines into any "A" body car or truck. Perhaps this bracket could be used to reverse the process and when used on the SBC configuration it might marry to the BOC mounts. Just a thought.
Another thing you should consider is the use of the 12 valve Cummins, assuming you have the room. This has a mechanical pump and fuel delivery and are reasonably simple to work on. Do a search on this board as this is a very popular conversion. The 6BT and 4BT were used extensively on delivery trucks (Frito Lay) with the THM400 tranny. The adapter plates are readily available (though this configuration may still reguire the BOC adapter as well) and there is lots of stuff available to add power to these engines. Would have to fabricate your own mounts and probably have to play around with gearing but it would seem to me that it would be a better engine to use for this application.
Keep us posted.
Bill
convert2diesel
09-05-2007, 09:16
If my memory serves me correctly, the Toronado/Eldorado setup used the THM400, thus the 400 torgue convertor is a straight bolt up if you used the 6.2/6.5 (get the one specific to the diesel for stall speed). As far as the mounts are concerned, if you can find a late 70s early 80s olds 307 or 350 diesel, they used a motor mount relocation bracket that allowed them to install these engines into any "A" body car or truck. Perhaps this bracket could be used to reverse the process and when used on the SBC configuration it might marry to the BOC mounts. Just a thought.
Another thing you should consider is the use of the 12 valve Cummins, assuming you have the room. This has a mechanical pump and fuel delivery and are reasonably simple to work on. Do a search on this board as this is a very popular conversion. The 6BT and 4BT (commercial versions) were used extensively on delivery trucks (Frito Lay) with the THM400 tranny. The adapter plates are readily available (though this configuration may still reguire the BOC adapter as well) and there is lots of stuff available to add power to these engines. Would have to fabricate your own mounts and probably have to play around with gearing but it would seem to me that it would be a better engine to use for this application.
Keep us posted.
Bill
kaylabryn
09-05-2007, 16:00
Little info that I know is that the older first generation TH-400's (you have a 425 but they are pretty much identical only different haha" the torque converters were interchangable and I doubt that GM changed that. This is back when GM cared. Here is some links for information about your transmission and some upgrades you might consider while doing the coversion, especially the Switch Pitch portion, I have had a few older Eldo's and it makes a world of difference at both spectrums power/economy.
http://www.remaker.com/caddy/survival.html "Scroll down to the SWP portion"
http://www.california.com/%7Eeagle/SWITCH.html
http://www.bdub.net/tranny/index.html
Hope all goes well and let us know, I have thought about this type of conversion before.
Mike
I think I read the '94-'95 6.5L had a mechanical pump. That appears to be the easiest swap I see. At least the engine should be pretty easy to get.
The Cummins is an interesting idea. Honestly, I'd like to put one in, if they're not too long. It's hard to find info on engine costs, and dimensions. A pont in the right direction would be good, if it's nearly the same cost.
My tranny guy is VERY good. He's been been building odd-ball stuff for me, for nearly 10 years. He's a good guy to know, though not cheap. :)
This swap appears to be VERY possible, with no nasty surprizes.
It's the Cummins and the 6.5L that are on the scale. WHile the Cummins may be better, the 6.5L will likely be lighter. In this case (torsion bar suspension), I need to keep it as light as possible.
Tough decisions, indeed
a5150nut
09-06-2007, 18:19
I think I read the '94-'95 6.5L had a mechanical pump. That appears to be the easiest swap I see. At least the engine should be pretty easy to get.
The Cummins is an interesting idea. Honestly, I'd like to put one in, if they're not too long. It's hard to find info on engine costs, and dimensions. A pont in the right direction would be good, if it's nearly the same cost.
My tranny guy is VERY good. He's been been building odd-ball stuff for me, for nearly 10 years. He's a good guy to know, though not cheap. :)
This swap appears to be VERY possible, with no nasty surprizes.
It's the Cummins and the 6.5L that are on the scale. WHile the Cummins may be better, the 6.5L will likely be lighter. In this case (torsion bar suspension), I need to keep it as light as possible.
Tough decisions, indeed
93 is the last of the mechanical pumps. 94 starts the electronic units. You can put the mechanical on in place of the electronic pump.
The Plot thickens...
I pulled the tranny and had it upgraded. Since you can only pull the engine oil pan when the tranny is removed (front wheel drive), I decided to pull it and take a look. Imagine my surprize when I found pieces of a piston skirt in it.
I'm serious about the conversion, now. But, I must choose my conversion wisely. I'm told that some adapter plates will rotate the engine. I may have room if it rotates to the left (drivers side), but I'm pretty sure the oil pan will hit the tranny if it rotates right.
Will the BOP->GM plate rotate the engine? I'm told the Cummins 12v does. The 6BT may be too heavy for the front wheel drive rig (if it fits next to the tranny), and from what I can tell, the 4BT would be too small.
It looks like the 6.2L or '92-'93 6.5L is where it's at. Sure, it may not be the best engine, but there's a lot to like about a 4 wire install.
Are the Chevy engines if those years so bad? If they will pull at least as well as the Olds 455 that's in there now, it should be fine. Are they compareable?
Thanks for the help
Why would you think the 4bt is too small? They can put out equivalent (or more) power than the 6.5.
Why would you think the 4bt is too small? They can put out equivalent (or more) power than the 6.5.
HUmmmmmmmmmm...
I can't find it now, but that's what I read. If it turns out that it's equilivent (or greater) in HP/Torquepower then the 455, it's back on the list. Though, I'd have to take a close look at one. I'm not sure the 4BT would fit the FWD Toronado/Eldorado/Revcon/GMC morothome drivetrain.
HUmmmmmmmmmm...
I can't find it now, but that's what I read. If it turns out that it's equilivent (or greater) in HP/Torquepower then the 455, it's back on the list. Though, I'd have to take a close look at one. I'm not sure the 4BT would fit the FWD Toronado/Eldorado/Revcon/GMC morothome drivetrain.
There is a link in one of the other threads about a 350hp/700+ftlb 4bt. The issue would be the bellhousing pattern - you can get the Chevy/GM pattern plates for the 4bt, but I don't know about the BOP pattern.
There is a link in one of the other threads about a 350hp/700+ftlb 4bt. The issue would be the bellhousing pattern - you can get the Chevy/GM pattern plates for the 4bt, but I don't know about the BOP pattern.
Interesting.
I think a well built 455 has about 450 ftlb torque. But it has nearly as much HP.
I just found a 12v (Dodge) cummins for $1000. I sure wish I knew more about the BOP->GM-Cummins adapter plates. If I have 2 adapter plates, I may have to shim the torque converter.
It all looks so easy on paper. :)
convert2diesel
10-22-2007, 19:47
A number of years ago I had the opportunity to purchase one the original GM motor homes. Been kicking myself ever since for not reacting fast enough.
Like you I was also looking at converting it to diesel. Having owned a Cadillac Eldorado with the 500 in it, I remembered the volumes of gasoline this thing sucked back. One of the avenues I investigated was modifying an existing 4X4 transfer case and using one of the 4 speed OD trannies. If you used a manual case (i.e. full lock in high) and sealed up the rear drive shaft, then you could use the front shaft only. Your friend at the tranny shop might have some other suggestions (like "that guy is nuts") or has a source of adapters that might work.
Another aspect that might give you some grief is, if my memory serves me correctly, the Caddy had a hole drilled through the oil pan to accomodate the passenger side axle. This would prove to be an interesting fab job unless you could modify the existing pan to fit your new engine. Don't know if yours is the same but it was one of the considerations I looked at.
As far as the engine is concerned, I vote for a full on mechanical 6.5 turbo (this is a GM diesel page after all) but the Cummins is a close second. The Cummins would make for an interesting conversion if you have the room.
Check with Jamie or Benny at the Diesel Depot for the adapters. They do alot of the Frito Lay trucks with the Cummins/400 set-up and should have the plates.
Sounds like a great project. Keep us informed.
Bill
A number of years ago I had the opportunity to purchase one the original GM motor homes. Been kicking myself ever since for not reacting fast enough.
Indeed, they are nice. This one is in pretty good shape for 30 years old. I look forward to actually using it, and not working on it.
Your friend at the tranny shop might have some other suggestions (like "that guy is nuts") or has a source of adapters that might work.
It's a cool idea, but not an option as the tranny's done. It went form a 5 disc pack to 6, boosted the pressure to ~90psi, a few other tweaks, and a small Allison torque converter that I think is from the 5 speed. We're pretty sure it will pull a combined vehicle weight of nearly 20,000 lbs, with the right engine.
I do like the T-case idea. I'll consider it when all this goes belly-up. ;):p:cool:
Another aspect that might give you some grief is, if my memory serves me correctly, the Caddy had a hole drilled through the oil pan to accomodate the passenger side axle.
Nope. It looks like a standard rear sump to me. All the goofy Diff stuff is a bit lower, were the half-shafts fit in.
Now, one thing that is interesting is that the engine mount is not on the side, but in the front. Imagine a 1/4" plate bolted to the bottom of the timing cover (or bolts on the block around it), with an engine mount on the bottom of a flange welded to the bottom of the plate. The front engine mount sits on a crossmember just in front (but under) the oil pan. This means that I'll have to bolt this plate to the lower front of the engine block. It's no big deal, I'm sure. But it is interesting.
As far as the engine is concerned, I vote for a full on mechanical 6.5 turbo (this is a GM diesel page after all) but the Cummins is a close second.
[\quote]
Ya the 6.5, or maybe a banks turbo on a 6.2, will be my first option. I've done a lot of things that "can't be done", but this time I'd rather be driving then have another project.
If any of you have a Drop-in Mechanical 6.5, or a strong 6.2, in the greater Portland, OR area, A PM might be nice. Or, I could use recomendations on where to get (other then Craig's list) a solid used engine.
[quote]
Sounds like a great project. Keep us informed.
Ya, man. You bet.
UMMmmmmmmmmm...
This may be the most noob question I've asked in a long time. :eek:
I remember, in my old ('70) Firebird days, GM and POB had different placement for the starters. One had a high left mount, and the other had a low right mount. If the diesel starter is not on the lower right (passanger) side, That's a show-stopper.
Where is the starter located on the 6.2/6.5? Is it the same place as the early 70's Olds 455?
Thanks again for the help.
convert2diesel
10-23-2007, 19:36
The starter is on the lower right (make sure you have the front bracket in place). Having installed the 6.2 in a Buick, I found that using the oil pan from a 4X4 gives you a little more clearance around the front of the engine...just a little flatter up there. Using the front mount would indeed solve a bunch of problems but make sure that your bellhousing bolts are grade eight or better (they are going to be taking up a lot of torque with no side mounts on the engine).
If you do your homework before hand, making a good reliable conversion is not out of the question. Other then a few teething pains, my 6.2 conversion has been my daily driver for 3 years now, has made the Ottawa/Florida trip four times with a trailer in tow (combined wieght of 8,000lbs), been out to the East coast twice, Georgia three times and Iowa once. In a normal year I will put anywheres from 30 to 40 thousand miles on the car.
Little more then normal maintenance in the whole time (oil, glowplugs, filters etc.). Had more problems with the accessories like the alternator, vacumm pump, lift pump then with the conversion. All of this with a known good used engine from Diesel Depot...thanks Jamie. In other words, to it right, do it once.
As many of the others on this forum can attest to, there should be no problems in getting 250 to 275 HP reliably from a good mechanical 6.5 and if you treat it kindly it should give you many years of service. Just choose a good rebuilder and invest the money now in getting the job done right.
Good luck.
Bill
I've run into a snag. The tranny is kinda low and left of the engine. The 6.2/6.5 appears to have a filter in the rear left. That will not fit, as the tranny oil pan is in that area. If it is 'only' a filter, can it be bypased, and moved to a remote location?
I'll get some pics, so you all can help a bit more. Now, the bellhousing is not an issue, but stuff on the lower left side (below the crank center line). Pretty much all that's under the freeze plugs might be fine.
convert2diesel
10-24-2007, 10:28
Some of the 4X4 engines and I think the Hummer had a filter that faced forward as opposed to down to clear the mechanicals. That may give you the clearance you need. If not then plumbing a filter into the oil cooler lines may make sense. A standard SBC outboard oil filter kit will work as well (I think Fram makes one) but that would mean the oil will come back from the cooler and then go out again to be filtered before making it back to the engine. Best invest in a real high volume oil pump.
Bill
ACK!!
That's the oil filter, and those lines go to an oil cooler?
This is going to be tough without a model. The last thing I want to do is spend $5k on a crate engine only to find the oil filter hits the tranny, or every time I change it (through a hole like a spark plug) oil drips down the top of the tranny.
Do you know where I can get good pics, with a few views of the engine's left? That would help alot.
I may end up buying a blown engine (or a truck with a blown engine) just to see if it fits.
Or... I spend more money, and try to find a decent 12v Cummins. I don't think there's anything on the drivers side, at crank height.
And we thought it was a 'bolt in" . :eek::D:cool:
DmaxMaverick
10-24-2007, 12:58
There are many options for remote oil filters. Both full-flow and bypass. You'd only need room at the oil filter location for an adapter that sticks out about 3/4", with lines running to wherever you place the filter. Put it in the glove box, if you want.
Ya, I just found a few options. At first, I didn't like the idea of 4 hoses coming out of that area. But if that's the toughest problem I have, I think I'll be OK, as long as I don't have to touch it again. No exageration, I will not be able to touch it without dropping the tranny.
I've found an 85 NA 6.2, with "30,000" miles on a GoodWrench engine. The down side is that it's about the lowest HP engine of the whole group. The upside, is that it runs very well. I suppose it would be pretty easy to get it going (assuming it fits next to the tranny), then add a turbo (6.5L maybe?) later.
AN fittings would make me feel better, too.
After looking at a few 6.2/6.5 engines, while in the vehicle, I'm not sure there's enough room in the left rear corner where the oil filter is.
The last 6.5 I looked at, in a 4x4, looked like it had an adapter that allowed the filter to be mounted sideways instead of down. Was it a removable orientation piece?
Do any of you have pictures that can give me perspective of size. Even better would be pictures with a ruler in it. I need to know if the oil filter gasket face extends below the block, and if so, how much. I also need to know how far the casting for the filter extends past the bellousing case to the left (drivers) side.
Thanks for the help
93GMCSierra
11-05-2007, 22:00
on the 6.5 in a 4x4 there is a removable plate that turns the filter 90 degrees DMAX said it is 3/4 of an inch drop I would agree I have not measured it though.
on the 6.5 in a 4x4 there is a removable plate that turns the filter 90 degrees DMAX said it is 3/4 of an inch drop I would agree I have not measured it though.
Good. It's removable. From my perspective from under the truck, the adapter looked to be about 3"-4" drop, and about 1" left of the bellhousing casting. The drop was at least teh diameter of the filter housing, as I recall.
It still looks very promissing. I just wish I could be sure before I spend $3k on a doner vehicle.
Update:
The rear of the Cummins engines, where it mates to the bellhousing, goes down past the center of line of the crank. This is bad. What's worse is that the adapter will add a few inces to the total length from the rear of the bell housing to the timing cover area of the enging. This is a show stopper, becasue my engine mounts are not on the side, but on the front of the engine, and the rear of the tranny. The Cummins is ruled out.
I've found a Canadian (not that it matters much) '88 Suburban. It's actually in pretty darn good shape, and kinda a shame to pick its bones and sell the rest.
I'm getting it (will be getting it. It's not in my possession, yet) for a price where I could resell it, if I find the engine. I plan to drive it around a bit to get used to the Chevy diesel oddities. Then I'll pull the engine, and a bunch of other stuff, and put it in the Revcon (Toronado drivetrain).
It's slow going, but it's going.
Don't mean to kill your idea but I thought someone had posted here that the problem with the 6.2/6.5 with the TH425 was the rear exhaust manifold . Seems they had clearance issues or couldn't get a manifold to work with that trans . Hope I'm wrong .
I've been driving the Suburban as a daily driver. Anyone considering a conversion, I advise actually driving the donor vehicle for a while. In my case, I'm learning quite a bit about what's really required to make the engine run. I'm also learning quite a bit about things particular to the GM diesels. They're not bad, but they are quite a bit different from the OM352/OM366 I have experiance with.
With regard to the oil filter placement issue, I'm going under the assumption that the relocator will fit between the block and the TH425. I won't have that answer till I get a lot closet to pulling the engine. Yes, it's true that the LH ehanust might be trouble, but I've been playing with the idea of having the manifold reversed such that it's pointing up, and mounting a turbo on it. The junk yard turbo guys are still debating how it would go with the turbo being spun from one bank, then having the RH, and LH banks "Y" just to the rear of the engine. At the very least, custom headers will fix any exhaust routing issues.
What I'm looking for is a 3/4" to 1" indicator that I can put in the dash with "Glow Plug" on it. Lord knows I'm pretty good as cheasing together any number of things, but I'm trying to make this conversion as clean as possible. Do any of you know the make/model of a vahicle that might have a removable glow plug light that I can get from the bone yard?
a5150nut
11-25-2007, 20:22
Not a bad idea driving the donor vihicle. But many purchase wrecked vehicles and don't get the chance.
Are you talking about running the turbo off just one manifold? You will need both sides pushing the turbo to get the boost out off it.
Rat Shack for a panel light. Won't have the lettering on it, but would make a clean install.
Keep us informed on your progress. :D
journeyman
11-29-2007, 13:39
I have heard that the 6.2's when properly built are underrated.
That could make a good start for you and if you are not satisfied with the performance (power OR mpg's) you can have it rebuilt, knowing that the conversion work is already done.
What is your R&P ratio?
That could be a limiting factor on a 1:1 transmission like the TH.
What is available for the transverse TH?
Generally I say taller (lower numerically) is better, but in a motor home you will need a low gear for starting out.
Also, did your builder use the stock (2.48, 1.48, 1.00) gear ratios?
UPDATE:
I've been playing with the glow plug circuit on the donor vehicle. I've found that the temp sensor is normally open. When I put a jumper in, the glow circuit doesn't work. But we all knew that. :)
The next step is to bypass the temp relay that's controlled by the ECU. I think all I have to do is jump the two redish colored wires, and I'm done. I'd like to take that part of the wiring harness with the engine, so I'll track down where those wires originate, and make them truly bypass the ecu garbage.... In theory, of course.
I'm still working finding a wafer thin oil filter relocator. I havn't tried too hard to find one, but it's about that time.
No roadblocks, just more tinkering.
UPDATE:
I've been driving the 'Burb around. I've learned a lot. However, Friday, I ran into something I couldn't pass up... A '82 C-20 (pretty sure) "Camper Special" for $500.
I bought it. I didn't even dicker about the price, really. The truck looks like rolling dog poo, but you know... Electrical wires strug around like noodles (I really hate that). Mechanically, it's not in bad shape. He's got recepits for oil changes, and all the joints have grease gushing from the zerts, for example. It ran pretty darn well, with an estimated mileage of about 200K.
I'm hoping that it is the '82 block. That's the sweetest block (assuming it's not horrably cracked somewhere) for a motorhome that will tow, so I'm told. The down side is I've read the '82 injectors are different. That's bad, becasue a turbo will go on it one day.
For $500, I can pick the meat off it's bones, and throw the rest to the Wolfs. Or, maybe I'll put the Olds 455 in it and sell it for $500 :)
Questions:
- If I find it is an '82 block, are the heads an issue?
- Should I consider swapping heads with the '88 Burb? That's a lot of work, but I'll do it, if it's "the right thing to do".
- It has no blow-by when cold, but still appears to have too much soot at the cold start. IP issue, perhaps?
- There's an odd sound heard when you take off the oil filler cap. It sounds kinda like it could be the PCV valve equilivent. Now that I think about it, maybe a loose timing chain? I don't think it's the chain, though. I've heard timing chains (on gassers) before.
I haven't forgotten about the pictures. I'm cleaning the shop this weekend so I'll have a place to lay-out the stuff. :)
Thought I'd catch everyone up on what's going on.
I found a 6.5L xx599 NA engine for a reasonable price. The compression is between 400-425 psi, and I can see hone marks on the cylinder walls. I did find one score a bit deaper then I'd like to see, but it wasn't too bad. This leads me to believe the engine does have the near 65,000 miles the PO claims it had. I can't think of any reason not to run it like it is.
The left bank exhaust will be an issue. I think I'm looking for Hummer manifolds, because they exit to the rear and not down.
I still need to modify the front engine mount. On these coaches, the engine mounts are in front and rear, not on the sides. It's not much trouble, it's just getting to it, and a bit of fab work.
I have the oil filter relocater, -8 AN hose for the engine and tranny oil lines, the BOP-GM adapter plate, and a few other tid-bits. I still have to drop the old 455 out the bottom, then I can start putting the front end back together.
I'm trying hard to get it road worthy by May 1st.
Here's some pics:
I have to find a filter relocater that's under 1-3/4". That may be tough. The one I got was perfect in height, but not big enough in diameter. The 6B filter is bigger then the SB filter. :(
I need to cut up my oil pan. It's likely to be easier then finding a shorter sump.
The front engine mount I made (pics later) covers the manual fuel pump. I'll try to find a different type, but as it is now, I may have to pull the pin out and use an electric pump. I'm thinking that I could put a 5psi oil pressure sensor. That should stop the pumping if something bad should happen.
I guess I'm cutting the oil pan, and looking for a thin relocator that's a larger diameter.
Any thoughts?
I've run into a show stopper. The diesel direct drive and gear driven starter hit the right half-shaft flange. The starters are about 1" too long.
It's too easy to miss something like this in conversion projects. I'm having to dig deep to find a solution. Basically, I have 3 options:
1} Rework the right axle shafts. - As it is now, the half shaft bolts to a flange on a shaft that goes under the oil pan (pics to come). While this is an option, it will take a long while to research what's required to find a shorter half shaft. Unless... I could have someone make me a longer axle shaft that goes under the oil pan, and have the stock half-shaft shortened. That's a pain, though. It means the CV joint will have to be rebuilt and not replaced. That's a drag.
2) Find a diesel starter that's 1" shorter. I have no idea where to start looking for that. There must be one out there somewhere.
3) Have a flex plate made that's the Olds diameter and tooth count but with the diesel bolt patterns and weighted for the 6.2/6.5. I suppose it could happen. It's just a matter of finding someone that would do it. However, after it's done, I'm not sure the Olds starter would turn it over.
This is a tough one. I could use an idea or two.
Thanks,
Try Powermaster for the starter. They make a high-torque starter for the 6.2/6.5. I don't know if it is any smaller than stock, but it would not hurt to ask.
DmaxMaverick
05-16-2008, 10:10
The gear reduction starters are significantly smaller (and lighter!) than direct drives. You may get lucky, if it's small enough in the right place.
convert2diesel
05-16-2008, 14:42
Had the same problem with the Buick conversion, though with me it was the cross member. Easy fix...notched out the cross member.
Before that tho, I went through the same thought process. All of the 6.2/6.5 starters are the same length. They are made to use the factory front hanger. Even the geared starters are the same length, just smaller in diameter.
A local rebuild shop here said he could re-work a starter from a big block Chevy to produce the power but that would have cost a bunch. Not to mention you would have to do two and keep one for a spare. Not something that any old re-builder is willing to do.
You could also try your local speed shop. Seems a number of firms are making high torque starters for the high compression gassers.
Bill
This is tough. As mentioned, it would be wise to have 2 units. That's something around $1000 for the starters. I'm going to stick it out though. I really believe this is the best engine for a motorhome with a 10500 GVW.
I have leads on a few starter gurus in the area. I have reason to believe someone can make a starter for me, but I'll have to dig a bit deeper into my wallet.
After that's done, I'll have to modify the oil pan such that there's about 1" clearance for the front half of the counterweights. Is that an issue if it still drains to the sump? Also, I'm having to cut into the sump area. I will be able to keep more oil then stock if I include the filters, oil lines, external coolers, and such. I just have to make sure that the pickup tube never sucks air or more turbulance then stock. That will be tough, becasue I can't see in there when it's running.
- Can I assume all is OK if the oil pressure is in spec?
I've noticed the flywheel rubbing the bellhousing becasue it's about 1.5" bigger. I'll have to grind/file it down a bit to make clearance. I only need a fraction of an inch to make it work.
There's only 1.5" clearance where the oil filter goes. I'm trying my best to find a relocater, but all I've found are for the smaller diameter ones (for the SB). I may have to block it off and pit the filter in line with the cooler hoses. It's less then ideal, but it should work.
Thanks for the support. It means a lot when things like this pop up.
EDIT: I have both starters in hand. That's been a great help in trying to find room. I wish the guru can find a stock armature and case that will do the job. That means I can get rebuild kits from other vehicle applications. It sounds easy. :)
DmaxMaverick
05-18-2008, 10:15
In regards to your oil pan clearance issues.......
There's no rule or law that says you have to use the original pan, as is. If it's really tight, relocate it. If you have plenty of room elsewhere, fab a dry sump setup, with the sump and filter(s) somewhere else. With that, you can choose the capacity and location, and clearance won't be an issue.
In regards to your oil pan clearance issues.......
There's no rule or law that says you have to use the original pan, as is. If it's really tight, relocate it. If you have plenty of room elsewhere, fab a dry sump setup, with the sump and filter(s) somewhere else. With that, you can choose the capacity and location, and clearance won't be an issue.
IIRC, it's going to be real tight to the middle journal then it can drop to the pickup level. I like using the current pickup cause "if it aint broke..." By my calculations, I'll loose about 3/4 of a quart in the pan, but I'll gain 2 quarts in extra tubing, coolers, and stuff. The end of the dip stick will be very close to the front drop point. It's going to look more like a valley pan in front, but it should do fine. I guess the oil may spash from the pan back to the cylinder walls... I can't see how that's an issue.
DmaxMaverick
05-18-2008, 14:46
It shouldn't be a problem as long as all the flow is downhill, and the crank doesn't get submerged. If capacity does get to be a concern, you can always include an intermediate tank inline somewhere.
Just throwing ideas out there.....
The intermediate tank had occurred to me. But I really don't think I'll have to go that far. It's an option, though... Done it before.
I'm more worried about the starter. That's a butt kicker.
What about some of the racing starters like a Tilton ?
What about some of the racing starters like a Tilton ?
Sure, why not?
Does the 6.2/6.5 share any starter bolt pattern, deepth, and gear count with any other GM engine? I guess I should have asked that in the begininning.
The Powermaster Starter FITS!!!!!!!!
Now I have to make the oil pan. It's going to be VERY close to the counter ballances on the front 2/3 of the engine. I've not seen anything like it, but I don't see how it's an issue. All it does is splash around down there. As long as it drains to the sump...
It sounds kinda easy. Am I missing something? Other then interference, is there an issue with the pan valley being close to the crank?
hertfordnc
06-09-2011, 04:30
So what happened?
I own a 72 Revcon. For now it runs great and has only 26,000 miles but in the future a diesel conversion might be soemthing to look at.
In my searches i keep coming back to this thread that ended in late 2007 but if the OP is still out there I'd love to hear how it turned out.
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