Radiator Bug, ok, it hit me too, $

[john8662]

Well, I went and searched for all the places where everyone in their time of radiator need found a solution that worked for them.

Good reading.

My '91 6.2L Burb needs a radiator.

It had sprung an easy to fix leak on the low coolant minder sensor about 3 months ago. So, being that things are (and still are severely) tight money wise I cheaped out and used some of my darn good silicone. Fixed it right up.

But, that was a temp fix.

I decided to pull the radiator to get it fixed because the rest of the inside of the radiator didn't look good either, not that I was having cooling problems, cause I don't pull with it much if at all, and I'd rather roll windows down than use the a/c and more fuel.

The radiator is out, but I noticed that it's the sorry version of this radiator, the 3-row one that has a core size of 1 5/8" thick.

I like the better 4-row one that is at least 2 1/8" thick.

I noticed that this radiator is showing a lot of signs of leaking externally and all the joints on the core are "blooming" so I knew it wasn't roddable, needed a new core.

So I go to my parts stock pile and drag out two used 4 core radiators that fit the 85+ oil lines etc.

Both fail visual inspection by the radiator shop, said he didn't want to rod them cause they'd both leak and it would end up being more expensive than to replace.

This is the same shop I've used for years.

Darn, can't turn junk into gold today.

Quoted a replacement ALUMINUM 2 row unit with plastic tanks but with the same coolers in the right places to install bolt-in in the old-body style suburban.

$309 with tax out the door.

Swipe the plastic and it's ordered, will be in tomorrow (I hope).

CC debt sucks, but whatcha gonna do?

I noticed that I could have a direct replacement aftermaket brass radiator for 267 shipped but I'd have to wait nearly a week.

Opted for the Alum unit, supposed to have a 2 3/16" core, equivalent to the older brass unit 4-row.

Guy at the radiator shop feels confident it's a superior radiator in all ways and would out-last the original.

But hows it gonna cool?

I comitted to try it and see.

Wish me luck!

J

[More Power]

You'll do fine!

By the way, there was no solder bloom that I could see in the PP 6.5's copper/brass radiator after more than six years of service with a single initial fill of Dex-Cool. I'm a Dex convert.... :)

Jim

[john8662]

You'll do fine!

By the way, there was no solder bloom that I could see in the PP 6.5's copper/brass radiator after more than six years of service with a single initial fill of Dex-Cool. I'm a Dex convert.... :)

Jim


Actually one of the questions I was going to ask concerning a new copper/brass radiator with Dex.

I'll likely do this one with the green currently. The next copper/brass unit that I know will bloom eventually It'll get the Dex!

[HammerWerf]

John,

In my fleet right now I have a copper/brass radiator that is running the Prestone universial OAT chemistry. Been 2 years now. Would you like me to suck some coolant out and check on the tube ends?

The Aluminum rad you just bought I think will make you quite happy. From what I have learned, the Al radiators have the fins brazed onto the tubes. In the Cu/Brass radiators, the Cu fins are soldered to the brass tubes. While it's true Copper and brass have wonderful heat transfer coefficients, the lead solder (Pb) joining them together is a better insulator than conductor. The brazing used in the Al rads conducts heat more readily.

Copper.org has a very interesting line of research into noflux copper/brass radiators that braze the fins onto the tube. No insulator layer. suppose to be very efficient.

HammerWerf

[Subzilla]

My '86's radiator is oozing out the green stuff in various places more and more so I will be in need of a replacement very soon. Last one I bought for the Sub, I went to Pep Boys and ordered what they offered. Looked good to me as my knowledge on radiators is limited other than they're black on the outside and shiney on the inside. So, can one of you guys summarize the advantages/disadvantages of copper/ brass vs. aluminum vs. plastic and 2 row vs. 3 row vs. 4 row? Costs?

Thanks!

[More Power]

I've not seen this mentioned in the trade journals, but my hunch is that the industry went to aluminum radiators primarily because of the toxicity of lead. Secondarily, cost of manufacture.

Ronniejoe posted the relative heat transfer coefficients for copper and aluminum in the 6.5 forum. Copper is better. However, that doesn't tell the whole story because the design of the radiator components also have an effect on the heat transfer.

Generally, copper/brass radiators use more but smaller cross tubes, while aluminum radiators use larger but fewer cross tubes. In reality, it is the total wetted surface area exposed to air flow that matters most, followed by density and design of the interconnecting turbulator fins.

The 2001-2006 Duramax aluminum radiator core and end tanks have the same external dimensions as that used by the 1994+ 6.5. The Duramax radiator can effectively cool 350 horsepower. I don't know if the two rad cores are the same internally. After trimming off the plastic mounts, a Duramax aluminum radiator will drop right into a 6.5 truck and the stock 1994+ rad mounts fit the same as they do for the 6.5 radiator. This is what I'm using in Lil Red (Duramax radiator, 6.5 rad mounts and fan shroud).

Jim

[arveetek]

I noticed that I could have a direct replacement aftermaket brass radiator for 267 shipped but I'd have to wait nearly a week.

Wish me luck!

J

Cool!

I didn't find that option when I replaced my radiator a while back. I seriously have my doubts that for $267 you would have ended up with a 4-row unit, though. It probably would have been a 3-row. Every single place I contacted told me they could get the 4-row, but it always ended up coming in as a 3-row. So I think you made a good choice. I think 4-row cores are becoming extinct for our trucks...

Casey

[john8662]

Casey,

I went with the Aluminum radiator.

From what I learned is that the rows really aren't going to be that important, but really how thick the core is.

Without actually receiving the offered brass/copper radiator that I had located online, I feel that it was likely at 4 row version solely based on the dimension of the core.

It's 2 1/8" thick.

Remember, the smaller typical 3-row radiator has a core that measures:

1 5/8"

I'd be interested to see whether the 2 1/8" thick core one I posted about earlier in this tread are indeed 3 or 4 row.

The aluminum one is 2 rows, but is still 2 3/16" thick ( 1/16" thicker, big whoopie there).

As MP states above, probably one of the more important aspects as far as radiator cooling is surface area, and the technican agreed at the local shop that the larger tubes (longer/flatter) will have more surface contact area with the FINS between tubes, which conduct heat away from the tubes and allow the heat to be taken away by the airstream flowing through.

I got a call from my Radiator shop today that my new Radiator is indeed in.

I'm gunna go pick 'er up in a little while.

I'm also gunna take sum piktures. ;)

J

[AVM62]

My 83’ motor home was starting to run a little warmer than I wanted when running down the Interstate 57-63 mph and almost hot when climbing steep hills on the interstate. Fan clutch was working.
I pulled the radiator, and it was oozing out the green stuff on the bottom. I wanted to get a new radiator but could not find the proper size for the van my class C motor home is based on. I ended up getting a new core for my old radiator and the first one leaked when the shop pressure tested it. I just got the second core installed today and so far so good.
I no longer have to watch the temp gauges like a hawk, I have two, the stock one and a mechanical one in the right side head in the top rear.
It was 90 today, and climbing my test hill on the interstate it never got over 195 .
I’ll keep you posted when I take a trip out to western Maryland.

[john8662]

Well, the harshest testing I can throw at the truck and this radiator has helped make this truck a VERY cool running vehicle towing or not.

I've been regularly towing my '82 pickup on trailer behind this '91 6.2L suburban going to various dragstrips and traveling.

This radiator has enabled the engine to never at any time get above 190 degrees on on the factory gauge with a single 180 degree RS stat. Keeps very cool and very consistent.

I am quite pleased with this radiator and feel that it is substantially better than any radiator I have used in a 6.2L vehicle. I will be purchasing two more of these exact radiators to replace the 3 core version in my '86 pickup and to replace the 4-core version in my '82 drag/race truck for weight reduction and cooling capacity when I remove the engine driven fan for some electrics.

Here are the pics:

http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/photopost/data/506/medium/Radiator_Whole.jpg

http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/photopost/data/506/Tubes.jpg

http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/photopost/data/506/core_width.jpg

http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/photopost/data/506/Low_Coolant_Adapter.jpg

http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/photopost/data/506/Radiator_Fill.jpg

[arveetek]

Very Cool!! (pun intended)

I'm very impressed with that radiator. I wish I had found that option when I replaced mine last year. I spent around $400 for a rebuilt copper/brass stock radiator. Only aluminum option I found was a custom built all-aluminum unit for around $500. Oh well.

Casey

[Subzilla]

John, when you say you bought it at the local shop, I assume you mean "local" and not Advance Auto?? My Blazer radiator is weeping at several places and I'll soon need one so I'm just wondering what brand, if any, to ask for and where to get it.

I'm glad to hear your successfull results.

Thanks

[GregCrabb]

I love that radiator!! I just replaced mine, but it is a racing radiator...it's thicker than this one and has aluminum tanks instead of plastic...but it's not quite as wide. We'll see how it goes when the weather gets warm again in a few months...so far so good though. Filled with Dex.