Broke a glow plug off!

[cutlas]

I was changing the driver side glow plugs and broke off the number 3 glow plug flush with the head trying to get the old one out. What can I do now? I was thinking about trying an easy out. Any one had success with this?

[JohnC]

Never could figure out why they called them "Easy" outs...

Sorry, I'm not going to be much help. I think if it's accessable, I'd pull the injector, plug up the port to the combustion chamber and start drilling....

[Robyn]

OK
First off, did the threaded portion of the plug unscrew from the head?
If so your in good shape.
Do as John C says and remove the injector and stuff a rag down into the outlet port of the Precup.
You may want to get the manifold out of the way to gain a little room.

Now with the port plugged so you can still see the glow plug tip soak the thing with your favorite skunk piss.
Now using a nice clean and fresh pin punch that will fairly easily slide through a glow plug hole, drive the broken piece back into the precup and remove with a forceps or a magnet.
Be sure you get all the pieces out before you remove the rag and button it up.
Be careful with the punch and the club as you dont want to mung up the glow plug hole and or the threads.

A little never seaze on the new plugs threads is a good idea.

Good luck and let us know

Robyn

[cutlas]

The glow plug head twisted off from the threaded portion. The other glow plugs I removed where lightly rusted on the threads but not swelled at the tip.

[Robyn]

So you got the threaded portion out?
If so follow what I posted before. If the threaded portion is still in this is going to take more work but its possible.

Robyn

[DmaxMaverick]

That's a tough one. Here's a couple thoughts.....

First off, which series of plug is it? 9G, 11G, etc. If you don't know, or think it's never been replaced, assume it's a 9G. If it is, you are better off breaking off the tip and leaving it in place after you clean up the pieces in the precup. Remove the injector and plug the flashhole before doing any more. In all but the most extreme cold starting conditions, 7 good plugs will start the engine with almost no noticeable difference. Most glow plug equipped Diesels have one or more bad plugs at any given time, and most folks don't know it. I've had long term success with only 3-4 plugs to get it started. A little smokey, but it started well.

There are 2 reasons I suggest you break it off and leave the threaded part in:

First, is if it is a 9G, the plug can burn and fall off in pieces later. Later plugs (11G+) are less prone to this, but it could still happen.

Second, if you bugger an extraction attempt, you'll likely have to remove the head to get it before you can run the engine. It will not run (well, it well, but very bad idea for more than diagnostic purposes) with a hole in the GP thread hole. If you have to do more than drill and use an easy-out, it is very difficult, if possible, to get anything done. Even drilling isn't easy w/o a right angle chuck. The #3 hole may not be too bad if you remove the fender liner or skirt. You have to get a straight shot at it, or you risk making the situation worse.

Another possible solution is to drill, tap and install a Heli-Coil, or just tap it for a pipe plug.

Again, you'll probably not even notice one plug that doesn't work. As long as the rest of the system is generally healthy.

[HH]

If you decide to drill, you may want to buy a set of left hand drill bits. Sometimes while drilling the heat and friction build up and during the drilling process the piece comes out, especially when you are near the the small diameter of the threads.

[simon]

Here is another option, depending on accessability. By what you are saying the treaded portion is still in the head.

If you know how to weld, use a migwelder to weld a small washer to the stump,and weld small nut to the washer, and turn the thing out. the heat from welding will have loosened the rust between the treads. just DON,T weld the plug to the head .

If there is still a piece sticking out, weld the nut straight to the stump.

[DmaxMaverick]

Here is another option, depending on accessability. By what you are saying the treaded portion is still in the head.

If you know how to weld, use a migwelder to weld a small washer to the stump,and weld small nut to the washer, and turn the thing out. the heat from welding will have loosened the rust between the treads. just DON,T weld the plug to the head .

If there is still a piece sticking out, weld the nut straight to the stump.

I wouldn't advise this for all but the most experienced. The GP thread is hollow with a rubber/ceramic insulator. I've tried this and 1/2 the time, the GP thread fused to the head before I was able to get a bead on the nut. Ugly. It isn't worth it. You are better off leaving it and surviving on 7 GP's. One mistake and the head has to come off.

[cutlas]

The threaded portion is still in the head. I really hate to leave it like this. I am going to pull the turbo to replace the remaining glow plugs and the remaining injectors in the next week. What must come off to remove the head if I can’t get the plug out?

[redbird2]

I have ran into this on some step vans with 6.5 one plug rusted all the way off or the hex part just snaps off when trying to remove the head. The trucks start just fine on 7 , i done see the need to incur all the expense of removing cylinder head and the chance of causing some other problem ie: head gasket doesn't leak now way risk it, cross over doesn't leak, exhaust manifold seals good, cross over seal well, the list could go on.

Again as others have stated they will start on 7 or even 6 unless you get bitterly cold fo long time then just plug it in don't make extra work for yourself

[cutlas]

I will replace the other 4 glow plugs for now then and hope for the best. Thanks.

[simon]

I wouldn't advise this for all but the most experienced. The GP thread is hollow with a rubber/ceramic insulator. I've tried this and 1/2 the time, the GP thread fused to the head before I was able to get a bead on the nut. Ugly. It isn't worth it. You are better off leaving it and surviving on 7 GP's. One mistake and the head has to come off.Now I get to argue with a moderator on this. First off you are right to leave this to an experienced welder, on the second part you are wrong.I have taken out plenty of broke off break bleed screws and grease nipples that way too, all are hollow and aprox the same size.

I spend some time this morning extracting glowplugs out of a cracked head that was badly overheated and has laid in my junkpile outside since january, ample time to get some rust in the glowplug treads.

So if you NEED to get them out, here are your options.

The first plug after making sure it was tight, i cut it of flush with the head with a hacksaw, then welded a 1/4" flat washer to the stump,in three stages to not melt the washer away.
Then an 3/8" nut 3/16" thick by 9/16" wrench size was welded to the washer inside the nuthole. I gave it a sharp rap with a hammer and a piece of 1/2 " shaft after it cooled down some what, and turned the plug out with no effort. If the plug broke of below the head you may have to dish the washer to get close to the stump.
I used a lincoln 100 mig welder on the lowest setting for this

Below the glowplug hex part there is no insulation evident,and welding the core to the rest of the plug created no problems.

the second plug , i tried a different strategy, wich I think is the best option for a rusted in plug, that has not broken. I took a waterpump pliers and bend the terminal back and fort to break it out of the plug,wich it did about a 1/4" inside the hex, the insulated piece comes out to that way. Using a 5/16' diameter flat punch wich fit in the recess perfectly, a gave the plug a couple of sharp blows , and this one came out easely too.
You have to go this way cause rapping on the hex part will just mushroom the nut,and wont accept a socket no more. I tried this too.

The third one, i tried drilling out. After cutting of the hex as i did to #1 , I used a 11/64" bit to drill out the core about 3/4" deep, then followed up with a 21/64" bit.[as close as the 8,5 mm tip size below the treads is] It is almost impossible to drill a straight hole, as the drill will wander sideways a bit, and there is no room for error ,as the treads are only 3/4 mm wider then the bit on both sides. This aproach spells disaster. the only way to do this safely is to rig up a hardened guide perfectly in line on the 2 axis , and use a 8.5 mm milling bit.

The lefthanded drill bit as has been mentioned by HH has merrit too, I did not have one to try.

The last one I tested on the amount of torque before it breaks. 46 lbs it took to do this on this one. So it seems that using more than 30 lbs of torque,wich is already excesive, is looking for trouble.
I don't know what the specs are for these thing, as i work more on feel to crank most bolts down,except the important stuff offcourse.

So in this case removing the plug as outlined in #2 is the best bet, if it still wont budge , heat the thing cherry red with a torch, let it cool down and try again.
in any case use whatever penetrating oil beforehand, best to let it work for a few hours.

On most cases you will have to remove the head, as there is little room to fart around in.

Sorry for the long post, but i felt i had to put the record straight.

No offence Dmax, just spend more time with the welder.

[DmaxMaverick]

...... Sorry for the long post, but i felt i had to put the record straight.

No offence Dmax, just spend more time with the welder.

I spend a LOT of time welding. Been doing it for 30+ years. Mig ,Tig, stick, gas, plasma, rightsideup, upsidedown. I'd so it in a second. I don't suggest welding on the GPs with the head on the engine unless the person is very experienced with a welder. The risk of it being unsuccessful is too great, and will likely lead to a head removal. You are not incorrect, but it is not for most of the folks. I hate to think we pushed someone into something that ends up costing a bunch of money that could have been avoided.

[simon]

I spend a LOT of time welding. Been doing it for 30+ years. Mig ,Tig, stick, gas, plasma, rightsideup, upsidedown. I'd so it in a second. I don't suggest welding on the GPs with the head on the engine unless the person is very experienced with a welder. The risk of it being unsuccessful is too great, and will likely lead to a head removal. You are not incorrect, but it is not for most of the folks. I hate to think we pushed someone into something that ends up costing a bunch of money that could have been avoided.I did not say keep the head on , there is no room for that.
I seems like both yours and my reputation needs defending eh. But i have done so much fixing on all kinds of things that i often forget what comes as a no brainer to me might be an real delemma for others and visa versa. I sure as hell ain't done learning yet.

[DmaxMaverick]

I did not say keep the head on , there is no room for that.
I seems like both yours and my reputation needs defending eh. But i have done so much fixing on all kinds of things that i often forget what comes as a no brainer to me might be an real delemma for others and visa versa. I sure as hell ain't done learning yet.

Like I said, I won't disagree with you. With the head off, it is much easier. Well, he doesn't have that luxury, and I was trying to help him avoid that. Nope. We are never done learning. I've done them with the head installed, but success is about 50/50. More or less, depending on which one. Not for the faint of heart.

[Robyn]

What Maverick is saying is good advice. You wont even know that one plug is gone.

I was at first thinking that you had just the element portion stuck in the head. But with what you have its not worth screwing with it.

I have dug all sorts of broken stuff out of holes in engines but I would not even mess with that one.

If the head is off and on the bench it would be a different story.
What is now a slight hurt to your ego, if messed up will become a big, really big hurt to your wallet. :eek::eek::eek::eek::eek:

Let it alone and worry about it when you have the heads off if you ever do. :)

Robyn

[cutlas]

I will leave the glow plug alone as long as it is the only one that breaks. I plan on replacing the rest this weekend. It was interesting to me to fine that the glow plugs and injectors are original for the truck and have 260,000KM on them. I have all records from the original owner and he was good to the truck. I am surprised that this was not considered a maintenance item.

[Robyn]

I have a Burb that had 230K miles that had the original plugs and squirts.
It happens all the time. Ideally 100K is about all the plugs and squirts are good for but most of us runemtilltheyquit :D

Robyn

[cutlas]

I hope it doesn't quit any time soon. I kinda like the loud obnoxious old truck.