oil cooler lines

[nextlevel]

I did a search but could not find the info I need. On my 1995 C2500 6.5 I need to replace the oil cooler lines. How do these lines disconnect from the block? There appears to be some kind of clip.

James

[Robyn]

Hello
Yes there is a little clip that goes into a groove in the little adapter on the block. A small little screw driver used with a bit of skill will allow you to get ahold of the clip and slide it out of the groove.
The adapters can also be unscrewed from the block and then remove the lines with the adapters in place then deal with it out in the open.
I would recommend replacing the adapters as they have a seal in them that gets hard over time and could pose a leak issue after changing the lines.

Install the new adapters (They come with sealant on the threads from MA General) then all you do is lube the little tapered end and shove it straight into the adapter until the clip snaps in behind the taper.

Be sure to refit the retaining strap that holds the lines secure at the rear of the engine at the manifold area. Make sure that strap is such that it wont worry a hole in the lines.

The design is less than optimal but if dealt with properly will suffice.

Good luck

Robyn

[nextlevel]

Thanks for the info. I was hoping I could take the whole thing out first and then unclip the line.
I used to live in Portland back in 1977 thru 1980. I travelled all over the state but never got to Newberg.

James

[Robyn]

Newberg has changed a bunch since 77-80
Back then it was a small town with a small town flavor and only about 8-10K in population.
We are over 20K now and a bedroom of Portland and a lot of big city ideas coming here. :(

I was born here, went to school here and stayed here with my family.
Seen a lot of changes in 55 years.
BUTTTTTT its still home.
I live about a 10 minute drive from downtown up on the top of a range of hills to the North.
Own 45 acres there that my folks bought in 1947.

You should find it fairly much a no brainer to get those cooler lines off the truck.

There are even aftermarket replacements that are far better than the stock stuff but do cost a tad more.

I am assuming you have the usual leak at the crimp where the rubber and the tubing meet???

There are some little clamps you can get from the NAPA store that will do a fair job of sealing the crimp/leak issue.

Good luck :)

Robyn

[TurboDiverArt]

If you have a 4x4 truck the oil lines aren't as easy as it seems. It's very tight with the horizontal oil filter adapter. I was able to get the lines disconnected but with a lot of difficulty, it’s very tight against the exhaust manifold. Also, I was not able to get the oil line adapters out of the block. Others have told me that it's easier with the oil filter adapter out of the way but was unable to get that off cause I didn't have a big enough socket. Removing the cross over also seems to be needed.

If your truck is a 2wd I think it's much easier.

Art.

[redbird2]

you can remove the adapt ors and the lines connected can be very tricky, the way I normally remove then if I can not get the clips out is I simply cut the pipe off as close to the fitting as possible and the screw out the fitting, your going to toss then any way go with SST lines sets I had mine made locally fraction of the cost takes care of leaks for good as you route them properly. there are a couple of supports on here that sell the SST line conversion kits.
good luck

[mobilevet]

I like the sound of "fraction of the cost", as my lines are leaking also.... where did you go about getting the SST (stainless steel??) line locally?

Also, did they put the stock fittings on the end or do you have to change them out?

I have seen the aftermarket kit be DSG and it has new fittings (looks like to me).

thanks

[1999GMC]

Lubricationspecialist.com has the kit with steel braided lines, new oil cooler, and all fittings for $225. Glad I went that route. One line came out easy, the other one I had to bend pretty bad to get it out. The steel braided lines just went right in no problem. And 2 years later, still no leaks.

[restoguy]

"On the Cheap!"
I think that Robyn hinted at this earlier, but I thought I'd explain what I did to my diesels earlier this year. It was something that Jim, I believe, talked about some time ago. I can't imagine a cheaper fix, and it seems to be working just fine for me. Basically, you just need 4 hose clamps that are big enought to fit over the crimped aluminium ends holding the rubber hoses. I can't remember the size. First, I used an air powered cut off tool to cut the crimps. I cut parallel to the tubing, not perpendicular(as if you were cutting through the tubing). You have to be careful not to cut too deep and damage the hose or nick the tubing itself. You just want to cut the outer crimp. I cut two places, on opposite sides. You can't cut all the way through on the end, but when you get close just pry them off and the last little tab will break easily. Next I used the grinder to grind off the little tab that was left. And lastly I put them back on and used a hose clamp to hold everything tight. The 'kerf'(space left by the cutting wheel) that results from cutting the crimp off allows you tighten it up more than it was. I was able to do the front ones without disconecting them. The back ones have to be taken loose from the block and pulled down to where they are accessable to the cut off wheel. Now that you are completely confused about this, I apologize. Try a search for the thread that I got the idea from, it had some pics to help me understand what was being suggested.