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View Full Version : Replaced PMD (now FSD)



BobND
04-05-2005, 21:29
My 1994 K-10 6.5 TD has been doing stupid little things for a couple of years... little "jerks" or "stumbles" at cruise, odd occasional bursts of excessive "diesel rattle" in stop-and-go driving around town, and finally, severe jerking, overspeeding (not responding to accelerator pedal), followed by dying miles from nowhere at -10 degrees, and refusing to start. (It set a code 35.)

It DID start after cool-down, and my 5-year-old and I made it back home without further incident. (I was NOT a happy camper, though!)

I recently installed a new FSD on a commercially-made generic FSD heatsink (disappointingly small) mounted to the intake.

I tightened the famous transistor hold-down nuts, and put a dab of silcon sealant on them to prevent them from shaking loose and let it cure overnight. Then, I filled the open area around each transistor with dielectric silcone grease to hopefully aid heat transfer from the transistor cases to the heat sink. (I discarded the plastic "cups" that go around the transistors. I suspect they are there to catch the little nuts that hold the transistors in place, as if they fell off, they could cause a short between the transistor case and the FSD chassis, possibly causing uncontrolled engine behavior. IMHO, they certainly can't help with efficient heat transfer, and aren't needed with the nuts now siliconed in place!)

I did not use the Stanadyne heat transfer pad. Inside, I used silver-bearing heat transfer compound intended for use on computer CPU's.

Lastly, I carefully cleaned off the excess heat transfer compound that had squeezed out around the FSD, and then put a small bead of silicon sealant around the perifery of the FSD, where it meets the heat sink, to prevent any of the compound from oozing out and making a mess, and also, to prevent any moisture from getting between the FSD and the heat sink.

I bought the pickup with 58,000 miles (the IP had been replaced at some point by the PO), and it now has 172,000 on it.

With the new FSD, it runs SUPER, with none of the little glitches (or the big ones, for that matter). I feel that it's running better than it did over 100,000 miles ago.

However, although I've not actually checked it (gotta round up my infra-red heat gun), I don't like how hot the FSD and heat sink get sitting on top of the motor. Even in our current 50 degree North Dakota spring weather, it heats up considerably.

When I get time, I will tap and drill a LARGE generic heatsink to mount an FSD, extend the wiring, and move the unit up behind the LH headlight. Then, I'll keep the current FSD and heatsink for a spare JUST IN CASE!

BobND
04-05-2005, 21:34
OOOPS...

"I did not use the Stanadyne heat transfer pad. Inside, I used silver-bearing heat transfer compound intended for use on computer CPU's."

Should read:

"I did not use the Stanadyne heat transfer pad. INSTEAD, I used silver-bearing heat transfer compound intended for use on computer CPU's.

DA BIG ONE
04-05-2005, 22:57
My setup is "overkill" with 3 units in place,
(1) stock one on the IP,
(2) mounted on a large sink then mounted to the forward edge of the driverside wheel well,
(3) mounted on a Heath 2wd heat sink then to the bottom edge of the front bumper.

2 & 3 also have extra sealing against the elements.

Call me crazy......

99gmccrew
04-06-2005, 19:21
I just bought a large heat sink for $6.00 plus shipping. I also mounted my fsd to it with out the stanadyne pad using the thermal conductive compound that I found on ebay. I decided not to mount it back on top of the engine like some of the vendors show it mounted. I wanted it to have plenty of air flowing over it to remove the heat from the heatsink. The spot I found with a lot of air coming off the radiator fan was next to the AC compressor so that's where I mounted it. I ordered the harness extension from Bill Heath and I will connect it up when it arrives. After driving around for a while I checked out tempuratures, the heatsink near the AC compressor was quite a bit cooler than the Intake manifold area. I'm a little concerned about temps coming off the radiator fan while traveling through the deserts this summer. I still dont think it could be any hotter than where it was mounted before, much more air flow where it is now. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. I'm even thinking that maybe it should be mounted under the dash inside the cab.

Steve

DA BIG ONE
04-07-2005, 00:52
Originally posted by 99gmccrew:
I just bought a large heat sink for $6.00 plus shipping. I also mounted my fsd to it with out the stanadyne pad using the thermal conductive compound that I found on ebay. I decided not to mount it back on top of the engine like some of the vendors show it mounted. I wanted it to have plenty of air flowing over it to remove the heat from the heatsink. The spot I found with a lot of air coming off the radiator fan was next to the AC compressor so that's where I mounted it. I ordered the harness extension from Bill Heath and I will connect it up when it arrives. After driving around for a while I checked out tempuratures, the heatsink near the AC compressor was quite a bit cooler than the Intake manifold area. I'm a little concerned about temps coming off the radiator fan while traveling through the deserts this summer. I still dont think it could be any hotter than where it was mounted before, much more air flow where it is now. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. I'm even thinking that maybe it should be mounted under the dash inside the cab.

Steve I have been in SE AZ 4 times in the past year during winter and summer, I am mostly in sub-tropics "lots of heat" the heat sinks mounted outside the engine compartment stay much cooler in all situations, never any problems, and my spare setup goes far if needed.

Adding a fan w/thermostat control to the heat sink would always be a big plus.

I have decided that when this electric IP goes, I am going to mech IP anyway so it will all be an none issue.

99gmccrew
04-07-2005, 10:06
I like the thought of a fan with a thermostated switch. Do you think that being mounted inside the cab would be a good idea? air conditioning on with cooler temps. I just wonder if it would pose any kind of safety hazard, ie, fire from overheating.

Steve

DA BIG ONE
04-07-2005, 12:09
Originally posted by 99gmccrew:
I like the thought of a fan with a thermostated switch. Do you think that being mounted inside the cab would be a good idea? air conditioning on with cooler temps. I just wonder if it would pose any kind of safety hazard, ie, fire from overheating.

Steve Some have had success with it inside cab. However, in an airflow outside engine bay would be best, fan could supplement cooling when at idle, or in slow traffic.

Heaths 2wd unit mounts on lower lip of the bumper w/plate exposed to airflow, when aftermarket heat sinks w/cooling fins (type seen mounted to intake)are used then the fins should be exposed to airflow for best performance.

Looking at my burb from the front, r/s is the common fin and plate heatsink which extends below the bumper catching the wind, but this style needs to be sealed against the elements.

On the l/s is Heaths plate design for the 2wd mounted on lower edge of bumper again catching wind, Heaths setup is already sealed against the elements.

Both setups have performed great in the harsh sub-tropics, the hot desert SW, and submerged in the Suwannee.

99gmccrew
04-09-2005, 22:08
What did you use to seal the fsd?

Does the entire unit need to be sealed or just the electrical connections?

99gmccrew

DA BIG ONE
04-10-2005, 14:47
Originally posted by 99gmccrew:
What did you use to seal the fsd?

Does the entire unit need to be sealed or just the electrical connections?

99gmccrew The factory connector is already sealed from the elements, but, I went overboard as usual, used gobs of silicone adhesive around the outside edges of the unit where it rests on the cooling plate "heat sink" smoothed it out with my finger. Put lots of it around the outside of the electrical connector where the wires enter the socket. Then with electrical connector plugged in place I put lots more around it, cant see the connector, after it cured I used an x-acto to cut around the connector close to the unit, it unplugs easy by gently lifting at the release tab which is now hidden under the silicone.

99gmccrew
04-11-2005, 20:24
Thanks DBO, I think I'm going to eventually move it on down to the bumper like you had described. Thanks for the info.

99gmccrew