Valve Cover Gasket

[Shikaroka]

I believe I have a leaking valve cover on my 96 Burb.
Are there any tips at replacing it?
Will I have to pull the turbo? Anything else I should do while I'm in there?

(I searched around but didn't find much helpful)

[john8662]

Which side?

Since you're thinking of removing the turbo I'm going to make the stab that the leak is likely on the passenger's side.

Yes, remove the turbo on this side.

You'll need to remove:

The upper intake manfold
Lower intake manifold
Turbocharger
Heat shields on turbo side
Injection pump lines
Injector line retainers over valve cover
Then the valve cover.

On the driver's side you need to remove the oil dipstick too.

To remove the valve cover take some care, because they're usually on there pretty good. I start at the top with a medium stiff 2" putty knife workign the blade in on the top and sliding it down, or gently tapping with my hand. Once the whole top is loose, you can remove the cover by pulling off and down, to compromose the RTV below.

For going back together...

I'd recommend getting everything really clean. I take a piece of blue shop towel (disposable type) and spray carb cleaner on the rag for the final oil-removal on the sealing surfaces before applying the RTV.

This is after doing all the scraping, etc.

For the valve cover, the best thing to remove the existing RTV is a SOFT wire wheel for a drill. Remove most of the big remains of RTV with a razor, then use the wheel to get the remaining stuff off.

For the cylinder head, you're stuck to the generic safety razor as the best method. Just take your time and get it all.

Finally, the choice in RTV!

The stuff you get at the auto store isn't up to the task of sealing this engine.

I don't know why, but it'll all leak. Permatex ultra black will leak, Versachem ultra black will leak, they all leak, eventually.

Two options that work well for this engine:

The Right Stuff, in an aerosol type can, good stuff, can get at Vatozone.

Sili-Gasket by Kent Automotive, but not readily available (what i use).

That's the highlights!

[Shikaroka]

Sounds like some good advice. Thanks!

Yes, I do believe my right (passenger) side is leaking.

[HammerWerf]

I have been in touch with the folks at Permatex Tech help. For this application ( I'm resealing the passenger side valve cover), they recomend using " The Right Stuff '. The reason I went through the trouble is that a friend of mine who works on diesel engines as part of the daily work at the shop. HE was telling me that the standard RTV (acetic acid) will react with the anti-foaming agent in the motor oil, reducing its effectivness. The Right Stuff is ammonia based, and does not react.

HammerWerf

[Robyn]

I am not fond of the goooooo in a tube but it seems to be the best choice on these engines.
I used a set of the bonded rubber/cork gaskets on my last 6.5 ?????????????// I have mixed emosions about gaskets on these engines.
I glued the gasket to the cover with 3M weatherstrip adhesive (Yellow)
I then used a thin film of the RTV blue on the gasket where it meats the heads.
I wiped the head surface down good with brakekleen prior to assembly and the sucker has stayed dry for over a year now.
I probably would not use gaskets again.
The engine kit I bought had gaskets for everything including the pan too.

I think the best bet is the original goooooo that GM used.

Keep on truckin :D

Robyn

[DmaxMaverick]

"The Right Stuff" is the right stuff. Get it in the cheese whiz can (works rightside-up and upside-down). Nice, easy, clean. It's also very tolerant of not-so-clean surfaces.

[jrsavoie]

How do you tell the first tightening with The Right Stuff?

The working time is short. I run the bolts in with an extension - no ratchet. Then about 15 minutes or so I torqued them to 9 foot lbs.

[DmaxMaverick]

How do you tell the first tightening with The Right Stuff?

The working time is short. I run the bolts in with an extension - no ratchet. Then about 15 minutes or so I torqued them to 9 foot lbs.

I use a nut driver or speed handle, but the process sounds about the same. I wait a bit longer in cooler temperatures, though.

[JeepSJ]

I am not fond of the goooooo in a tube but it seems to be the best choice on these engines.
I used a set of the bonded rubber/cork gaskets on my last 6.5 ?????????????// I have mixed emosions about gaskets on these engines.
I glued the gasket to the cover with 3M weatherstrip adhesive (Yellow)
I then used a thin film of the RTV blue on the gasket where it meats the heads.
I wiped the head surface down good with brakekleen prior to assembly and the sucker has stayed dry for over a year now.
I probably would not use gaskets again.
The engine kit I bought had gaskets for everything including the pan too.

I think the best bet is the original goooooo that GM used.

Keep on truckin :D

Robyn

I used gaskets on mine also when I first put it together - basically same thing you did - glue them to valve cover then silicone to the head. They started leaking in about a year. Bolts seemed to constantly come loose. When it goes back together I will not be using gaskets.

I also gasketed the oil pan. Yeah, I'll be dropping the pan and resealing it all without a gasket.

[TrenchFoot]

Sorry to hijack the OP's thread, but you guys are killing me. You've got me questioning whether I need to redo my engine.

I used Permatex Ultra Black on the valve covers by itself. For the oil pan I used it on both sides of a cork gasket. All surfaces cleaned with brake clean before applying.

The engine is still on a stand, all painted up and pretty. Will this sucker leak in a year? Do I need to redo it all with Right Stuff and no gasket on the oil pan?

[DmaxMaverick]

Sorry to hijack the OP's thread, but you guys are killing me. You've got me questioning whether I need to redo my engine.

I used Permatex Ultra Black on the valve covers by itself. For the oil pan I used it on both sides of a cork gasket. All surfaces cleaned with brake clean before applying.

The engine is still on a stand, all painted up and pretty. Will this sucker leak in a year? Do I need to redo it all with Right Stuff and no gasket on the oil pan?

It might not leak in a year, but it might. Almost certainly after 2-3 years.

A re-do with the engine on the stand is a cake walk, and cheap. In the truck, not so much. Gasket removal now will be MUCH easier, as well.

[TrenchFoot]

Thanks Dmax. I know to skip the gasket on the valve covers. But the oil pan? I was concerned when I saw the ends of the cork gasket split at the ends while tightening the pan. What's the preferred setup for the oil pan?

[Dvldog8793]

Howdy
My past experience with pans is:

-Make sure no bolt holes are dimpled or cracked. Use a QUALITY gasket with no silicon. everything dry and clean. Use a spray or brush on gasket prep(old school permatex aviation prep) and tighten it evenly with a torque wrench.

OR

-follow the process described for the right-stuff.

I have had GREAT success with both.

Silicon on both sides both the gasket will almost guarantee that it will leak. The gasket just slides around on the silicon until it works its way out or splits.

Hope this helps...Good luck!

[jrsavoie]

I have never had long term success with cork gaskets - on anything - ever.