Searching for a replacment 6.5

[cmr410]

I am looking to replace the 6.5L Turbo Diesel in my 1992 Chevy Pickup 2500 (4x4). It has blow by really bad and uses about a qt of oil every 50-100 miles, (however interesting enough it still has plenty of power.) I really don’t want to spend 5K-7K plus on a rebuilt motor so I thought I could find a deal on a used one. It seems that the engines are cheaper when they are still in the vehicle. For instance most used ones available on sites like www.car-part.com have them listed around 3K while I saw a 1995 P/U (with 100K miles) in my local paper with the 6.5 engine for 2K. Anyway with this said I need to know what to look for in finding a used motor that will work in my truck. For instance would a 6.5L out of another vehicle work in mine. My truck is a mechanical pump while some 6.5 have an electrical pump. Are all 6.5 long blocks the same or are they made specifically for certain years.

Thanks for your help,
Chris

[daustin]

The '94 up motors have the electronic IP, the '97 up have the dual thermostat & HO waterpump setup in addition to the ele IP. The IP you can swap out your mech DB2 & that will be just fine. The dual-thermo will interfere with the throttle & cruise control cables on the earlier trucks - pre '94. You could swap that as well, or fabricate a new bracket and use the dual thermo setup which cools a lot better. Other differences are internal, oil-spray holes..etc.
Don

[cmr410]

So I would be looking for a 93 and older engine to do a complete swap....would it be possible to use a long block from a 94 and up and just swap my intake and mechanical IP or are the injectors and heads different on the 94 and up?

[redbird2]

I have a line on a 1995 non turbo mechanical engine ran fine has 125k on it you can easliy swap over your manifolds and turbo and have a turbo engine send me private e-mail will be glad to share with you about the engine if it would help you I'm in IL where are you located at?

by the way are you sure its blow by and not turbo dumping oil into the intake just idea?

[cmr410]

I am located in Maryland....the engine has 301K miles so the age makes me suspect it is probably something more than just the turbo.

[j_k_auto]

I am located in Maryland....the engine has 301K miles so the age makes me suspect it is probably something more than just the turbo.

I was tring to pm you but your pms are turned off. Anyhow I will be selling my 6.5 engine which is apart soon alng with all my other 6.5 stuff . I just figured I would let you know.

[cmr410]

Thanks I just turned on my PM....for some reason I must have turned it off.

[daustin]

You can swap any year 6.5 for yours, just transplant the Mech IP and any accessories to the new motor. IF you get a 6.5 that wasn't a turbo motor, you'll still have to swap your IP as the non turbo motor IP's can not be turned up enough for the turbo induction. Yours should have a DB2-4911 IP, that's the mechanical IP for the turbo motor. Look on the IP side plate for info. (Black, Blue.. tag rivited to it) A Friend works in a IP shop, they tried a non turbo IP on a turbo motor and it didn't work well at all - couldn't pump enough fuel and they are IP experts!!! Good luck, there's several 6.5 TD's on ebay & other sources, beware of what you see and have a good hard look at it or get a least a money-back guarantee if it has cracked heads, crank knocking....etc. (that's not meant toward anyone here who offers help or parts, just a little advice on buying used motors in general, there's some people who have no scruples) Everyone i have dealt with here and on another 6.5 board is honest and i trust after talking with them here. IMO
Don

[cmr410]

Great....this is what I needed to know. I have seen several rebuilds on eBay, however I have been warned that some of the rebuilds are done with cheap inferior parts. I would hate to go through all the effort of putting in an engine only to have it fail because of cheap internals.

[DeezilDoc]

check out www.65dieseldirect.com NEW long blocks for under 5k

[More Power]

If it's being advertised as new, make sure it's a Navistar block.

Jim

[GMDiesel]

Has it been people's experience who are utilizing the AMG/Navistar castings that these engines are louder than the original GM engines they replaced, with increased vibration as well?

[twaddle]

"the engine has 301K miles so the age makes me suspect it is probably something more than just the turbo."
.................................................. .................................................. ...........

Hi there,
I've picked up on this thread a little late but here's my two cents worth anyway.

If the engine has plenty of power and no or little smoke at the exhaust tail pipe it may be the valve stems and guides that are worn and causing both oil consumption and excess crankcase
breathing. Also is the CDR valve on the rocker cover OK. Check it is not blocked in any way.
The other thing that can cause the exact same symptoms is glazed cylinder bores (If this is the case also check injectors as bad spray patterns can lead to glazed liners/bores).
You should see a "crosshatch" (lines honed onto the bore surface), if the bores have a mirror finish they require to be rehoned. This glazing can happen on bores that have no physical wear which means that they do not require to be rebored only honed.

It may be worth stripping the engine down, evaluating what needs rebuilding. It may not be as bad as you think, You may get off with honing (deglaze ) the bores, a new set of piston rings and a cylinder head rebuild.

Good luck

Jim

[rustyk]

I have a '92 599 block engine (54K miles) swapped out of my motorhome; needs a partial rebuild (cylinders 5-8 lightly scored (used little or no oil - qt about every 1500 miles). Turbo has about 20K and checked OK, same for heads. Hi cap water pump and dual 'stats, gasket set.

Cheap. Located in north Florida.

PM me for details if you're interested.

[TAG]

As far as noise i must say yes. My 06 amg 18:1 sounds a lot more rugged than the oe s engine. No idea why but is noticeable. Not obnoxious but definately louder.

[simon]

For starters you can try and vent the CDR valve to the atmosphere and plug of the turbo inlet. it will stop the oil burning if it is blowby. If not,then the turbo needs an overhaul.
unless ofcourse if the mill is worn out

I did this CDR bypass on my 95,see sig, 15000 km ago, it uses now only a quart between oil changes.