60G from 9G glow plugs

[byte]

Hello... I have been getting lots of great info from the site. I am putting in new injectors and decided to replace the glow plugs on the pass. side while I have the manifold off anyways *not 1 burned out on that side since new '95*... I ordered 8 glowplugs and they are the 60G AC/Delco. The old ones are the 7G type...

1) I was planning on just changing the right side, but now they are different part numbers, do I have to change all 8? The left side are easy to change when they burn out...

2) Will the truck start the same as before? *Which was awesome even in Alberta in the winter...* Or will I have to cycle the controller 2 times or install variable timer?

3) I got a Banks exhaust setup today... :D ... but there is not crossover pipe from the left to right exhaust manifold... :confused: they told me it was a complete kit turbo back... did I get hosed or do you have to purchase the crossover seperate? Seems like the crossover pipe should be the first piece of exhaust system to hit the recycle bin...

Thanks for the help... byte

[DmaxMaverick]

Welcome to the Forums!

You don't have to install all 8 plugs of the same brand or part # (although it is recommended you do), but they need to be of the same type. 9G's are fast plugs, and the 60G's are slow. You will only be able to glow long enough for the 9G's, leaving the 60G's still cold. If you glow long enough to heat up the 60G's, you will burn up and swell the 9G's in a hurry. It may start fine, but you will see a lot more smoke on a cold winter start, and it will run rough for longer. If you have eight 60G's, replace them all. You will likely have to extend your glow time to get the cold weather start you've enjoyed in the past. In all honesty, though, you will not likely ever get any plug to heat up like the 9G's do, but their weekness is swelling, which can be enough of a PITA to settle for a little less. The 60G's can be configured well enough to get you close. Try a search of past threads and read up on TDP articles for more info on that. Post questions for what you don't find, as you go.

[byte]

just to add... we have cold winters here and I really don't like the idea of adding manual glow control switch... i kinda like to turn the key and have things work without extra buttons and switchs... I guess it would also work as a anti-theft device for someone who doesn't know the "routine" for starting :rolleyes: I am looking into whether I can set the times in the ECM with GMTDScan...

I have seen some cases of swollen glowplugs in the older 5.7 diesels when I worked in a injection shop, but I have never had any bad luck with the 6.2 or the 6.5 glowplugs...

to change or not to change 60G versus 9G for cold canada...:cool:

thanks again...

[DmaxMaverick]

You can extend your glow time, and maintain the automatic feature. I don't have it in front of me, but several threads and TDP articles cover every option. A manual glow is an option, but far from the only one. You can construct your own auto glow system easily with an adjustible timer relay, and have a manual button for those times when a little more glow is needed. You can even install a 1985+ controller (inexpensive, stand-alone and easy to modify) and adjust it for extended glow times. You can have it any way you want, and still have a glow system that will get your truck started in the worst of conditions. Changing from a fast plug to a slow plug will require some modification to get you started on those cold Alberta mornings.

[gmctd]

Also, GMTDScan is a user-friendly full function scantool, not a reprogrammer - you can test GP system operation, as with the Tech2, but you cannot alter PCM function - for that, you will need to upgrade the chip to handle the chills, which also offers some enhanced thrills - mo' power, oh yeah.....................

[byte]

Thanks for the quick answers on a Sunday afternoon... my new injectors, glow plugs, and exhaust had just arrived... and then was not sure weather :D to install the glowplugs or not... the g'plugs and injectors are in there now... and the stove pipe is in place... just got to get the front of the engine back together (new p/s pump, water pump, PMD cooler and SS oil cooler lines) and I can turn the key to see how it sounds... the truck is about 200 pounds lighter after removing all the bugs from the rad and coolers and all the soot from intake... also need to wire in the pyro and boost... maybe tommorrow it will run... :eek: maybe not :(

thanks for all the info... I have spent many hours on this site over the last week (truck has been on blocks since tuesday)

[gmctd]

Make double sure you leave the short black ground wire securely attached to the top of the Inj Pump, where it belongs - IP operation is absolutely dependent on connection to ground at that location

[byte]

Hello... I did move the wire back to the rear screw of the pump (on the top) to gain that 1 inch of cable... Would that matter, it is still grounded to the same cover as the orginal bolt?

[gmctd]

Yes, that's good - just don't move it from there, or lengthen it - that connects directly to the Fuel Solenoid, is the FS ground - must be no longer than the oem ~4"

Let's touch on that, a bit - that wire goes straight to the ring-lug terminal on the FS - a second black wire comes from that ring-lug terminal to the FSD module connector pin F, which is FS Ground - right?

There is a smaller ground wire on pin C, Closure Ground, which goes to the PCM - the two FS black wires must not be tied to the Closure black wire

Is the SES indicator lite on when the engine is running?

[byte]

Yes, that's good - just don't move it from there, or lengthen it - that connects directly to the Fuel Solenoid, is the FS ground - must be no longer than the oem ~4"

Let's touch on that, a bit - that wire goes straight to the ring-lug terminal on the FS - a second black wire comes from that ring-lug terminal to the FSD module connector pin F, which is FS Ground - right?

There is a smaller ground wire on pin C, Closure Ground, which goes to the PCM - the two FS black wires must not be tied to the Closure black wire

Is the SES indicator lite on when the engine is running?


I have no SES light... or batteries hooked up... or front tires... I hope to have truck running in a day or two... truck was running good when I took it in to do a bit of work to it... no problems with SES light before I took it in... I have owned this truck since 2000 (my bro was the orginal owner) and have not had much for troubles... that is why it was time for new p/s pump,water pump, and a few other toys for the unit

SURE COST A LOT OF $$$ TO CHANGE THE COOLANT HOSES...

but they were cheaper than the Banks exhaust and aFe filter... I always hated that filter setup... the GM dealer left the turbo clamp loose 2 times on me while doing oil change... the 2nd time I caught them... and the best the manager could come up with was a free oil change coupon and he really didn't think it would hurt the engine... i never took the coupon or been back there... I do my own oil changes again... wear doctor type rubber gloves and save cleaning that black oil from your hands...

[byte]

Hello... I got the truck back on its feet today and the glow plugs work good with the original controller settings. Truck starts good in the warm summer, I hope they will also stay on long enough in the cold months to start the unit... the dealer (IJ shop) told me the 60G is the replacement for 9G and the 60G is also fast heat plug...

At first I was worried they had gave me the wrong glow plugs!

[robscarab]

I just installed Bosch 250 202 126-35t GP's in my 93 TD. They were a little more money than the 60G AC brand, but the NAPA sales girl said they are supposed to be more robust and higher quality? Any thoughts on this? Will they work with my 1993 controller? (the engine has just been rebuilt with the Mahle LC pistons)

Thanks

Rob

[DmaxMaverick]

Hello... I got the truck back on its feet today and the glow plugs work good with the original controller settings. Truck starts good in the warm summer, I hope they will also stay on long enough in the cold months to start the unit... the dealer (IJ shop) told me the 60G is the replacement for 9G and the 60G is also fast heat plug...

At first I was worried they had gave me the wrong glow plugs!

The 60G, for your purpose, is a SLOW plug. If you apply 24V to it, it would be fast, but that's not the case. I suspect you find it falling short when there's frost on the pumpkin.

[robscarab]

I just installed Bosch 250 202 126-35t GP's in my 93 TD. They were a little more money than the 60G AC brand, but the NAPA sales girl said they are supposed to be more robust and higher quality? Any thoughts on this? Will they work with my 1993 controller? (the engine has just been rebuilt with the Mahle LC pistons)

Thanks

Rob

Are these GP's the same as the 60G slow glow? If so, how long should they be manually powered up prior to cold starting in cool weather? Sorry for hijacking here, but NAPA is apparantly selling these to alot of 6.5TD customers. There was 8 different GP choices listed for a 93 6.5 TD and these were the most expensive. Perhaps several members could benefit from good info on these units if someone here has previous experience with them.

Rob