Sorry, stalling again!!

[FLSTSS]

Ok sorry about posting this again, but it's driving me nutz!! I installed a new PDM and remote plate on about 8 months ago because of the stalling. It worked great. Over the last 2 days it started stalling again very random, example yesterday It stalled once or twice when it was warmed up, today I drove it less than a mile and it stalled, started right back up and drove for about 8 miles stalled and started right back up. then it started stalling and taking longer to start and finally it won't start. I got it towed home and it started right back up. One thing that was strange if I start it and let idle in the driveway and it runs and runs no stalling. The charging is around 14 volts, I am now putting new batteries in and fuel filter. last night I put a new OPS in and a fuel pump relay. I don't see any difference. I cleaning wire ends and checking grounds now. The ing switch is good. Any Ideas? When it runs it runs fine no hesitations or stumbling. I hope it's not another PMD.

Thanks Scott

[twaddle]

Hi there,
Have had the truck checked for any codes?

Jim

[FLSTSS]

Jim

There were no codes.

[twaddle]

Hi there,
It will be a process of elimination but you are going down the list as most of us with this type of fault would do.

The fact it runs ok if you let the engine sit and idle for a while may be a battery issue that the idling lets the alternator charge and increase the battery voltage but I would have thought that if the battery is down that much the engine would not turn over on the starter too well.

Try a new PMD (it's handy to have a spare one in the truck anyway, I always have a spare Stanadyne PMD for the Sol-D cold weather starting issues).

I had similar issues with intermittent stalling and no codes over a number of years (5 to be precise) which eventually stalled 3 times within about 8 miles with the final time requiring a tow home. No matter what I did it would not start, yippee, at last it was no longer an intermittent fault. I had suspected the PCM for a while by that point and luckily had just purchased a second hand Heath PCM on Ebay. Installed the Heath PCM and the truck has been running great since (touching wood quickly).

I also recommend checking system voltage at various points from the batteries to the fuses and PMD etc to see if there is any voltage drops, I also increased the number of ground cables which seemed to improve things way back when this fault began.
While testing voltages pay attention to the condition wires at multiplugs and the multi plugs thamselves. I found a spray can of electrical contact cleaner helpful too.

Keep a log of events and what you have done and when, this makes life easier when recalling what has happened and when, I wish I had.

Good luck

Jim
Biggar, Scotland
Soon to be Alberta Canada (as soon as the house sells, the business is wound down and the UK tax man paid.) Tax Man?? not a popular subject for a Scotsman. Hee hee

[Robyn]

Very well could be a PMD taking a leave on you or the PCM/ECM is going away
If there are no codes I would suspect the PMD is the culprit though.
Where is your PMD mounted?

If its still anywhere on the top of the engine its tooooooooooooo hot. get an extension cable and remount the beast to a cool spot down on the inside of the front splash pan or anywhere that does not accumulate high temps.

Mounting the PMD on the top of the intake manifold is really a poor choice as its plenty hot there too.

My dually has the PMD on top (Not for long though) gonna move it to a shady place with a cool breeze.

Try getting a fresh PMD on the thing and see if this eliminates the issue.
Many of the Pump shops will have a bucket full of used PMD's and many of them are in fine shape and can be had cheap. :D
I bought two used ones recently and both are fine for $25.
Stuck a spare in each truck

Carry a spare. :)

Good luck
Robyn

[FLSTSS]

Thanks for the info!!! I put in 2 new batteries cleaned and greased the wire ends, and new fuel filter, moved the dreaded PMD to the fender for now cleaned up the 15 pin socket on the fire wall spray and greased. Changed the oil and filter. It's running good this mourning, But I just noticed some thing new. Oil pressure very low, enough to light the check gauges light. I changed the OPS 2 days ago, I didn't notice it then but I didn't drive it very long ether. So could it be a bad switch or the bye pass in the filter? Is there some where on the block thats easy to get to to put a temp. mech. oil pressure gauge to check the OP? I guess the easiest think would be to change the filter. I'm using the same oil and filters I always ues. Fram 5 and the shell oil (can't think of the name right, brain f&%t) Any thoughts?

Thanks

[FLSTSS]

Also this is how the stock gauge is acting--- at idle in drive it's bouncing around 5lbs if I'm on the highway around 60mph it around 20-25lbs, it used to idle around that and be up around 40lbs @ around 60mph or 2200 rpms?????

[FLSTSS]

Well I changed the filter and nothing changed, then I put the mech. OP gage in it seemed to be about 5lbs higher but thats all. I then changed the oil from the Rotella 5-40 syn to castrol 15-40 non syn same results. Sum back ground the truck is a 1997 1500 4wd, 6.5l, 157,000 miles I think the gears are 373's or close to that, I change the oil around 3000 to 4000 miles. Any way I notice sum odd things happening after I got it towed(flat bedded) home. As I said before The first things I did was change the fuel filter, change the batteries, change oil and filter, checked the voltage to the PMD (ok) cleaned that 15 pin electric connector near the firewall with contact cleaner and put on dielectric grease and that was it. It started right up and ran fine. I let it idle for about 20 mins then took it out for a little test ride no problems I could see, came back it idled some more and I shut it down. Then next day I drove to work, on the way there that is when the check gage light came on and the OP was low. I parked and after work I stared it up 40+ OP and drove home. Here comes the odd things, (I guess I'm watching all the gauges very closely now) in OD @ 45-50mph rpms are around 1900 then @ 55 they drop to 1500 as it goes to 60mph rpms increase to 1800 (something didn't seem right) so I brought it up to 75 and the rpms went to 2100 (I wish that was true) anyway now that the oil is hot the pressure doesn't go higher than say 35psi (the factory gage) and when I come to a stop the pressure drops down to 5 or less. I moved it out of OD to 3 and the rpms seem right the tach goes to around 3000 @ 55mph. I don't get it?????????? Something else strange I'm driving down a hill about 40mph I put it into neutral to coast the rmps drop to 800 and the OP is around 10 I taped to brake to slow and as I did that rpms drop to 500 and the OP drop also I'm thinking why would the rpms drop I'm coasting. The OP only gets very low when I 'm driving and the oil is hot, if it just sits and idles it about 10lbs. Then last night I went to start it and the day time running lights were off I got out the test light and put the key back on and they were back on ,Gremlins? A thought is the oil fill tube a straight shot to the pan and if so is it possible for a piece of the foil that covers the new oil fall into the pan and clog the pick up? How hard is it to drop the pan and inspect the pump? I just don't get it, the pressure drop, it wasn't gradually like wear, it just happened. Like something broke or a clog, I'm thinking. It has good OP till it gets hot, it runs great I don't hear and noise like a broken part.

Well if you can think of any thing please let me know.
Thanks a bunch
Scott

[moondoggie]

Good Day!

Whew! Here goes...

With your troubles, IMHO I'd temporarily tee in a mechanical OP (oil pressure) gauge, readable in the cab, & forget the dash OP for now.

"...now that the oil is hot the pressure doesn't go higher than say 35psi (the factory gage)..." My 95 pickup reads identically; I'm absolutely unconcerned. ;)

"...when I come to a stop the pressure drops down to 5 or less." re my comments on the in-cab mechanical OP gauge.

"...in OD @ 45-50mph rpms are around 1900 then @ 55 they drop to 1500 as it goes to 60mph rpms increase to 1800 (something didn't seem right) so I brought it up to 75 and the rpms went to 2100 (I wish that was true)..." If you have 235/75R15 tires (probably stock size for your truck) & 3.42 gears (which is highly likely, as your truck is a 1/2 ton), this is the rpm / mph relationship you'd have in OD:

1642 rpm @ 55 mph
1791 rpm @ 60 mph
2239 rpm @ 75 mph

Your rpm's are higher at 40 - 50 mph because the torque converter doesn't lock up until 51 mph or so. In other words, all is nominal, no worries. :)

"I moved it out of OD to 3 and the rpms seem right the tach goes to around 3000 @ 55mph." Should be 2189; hmmm... I'd still ignore this until the rest gets figured out.

"...40mph I put it into neutral to coast the rmps drop to 800..." because the TC unlocked; "...I taped to brake to slow and as I did that rpms drop to 500..." because the tranny freewheels when you touch the brake. All this is COMPLETELY normal. :)

"...the day time running lights were off I got out the test light and put the key back on and they were back on ,Gremlins?" Likely; do some searches on ignition switch problems, they can cause LOTS of really weird symptoms like this, plus maybe even the other things you've noticed.

"...is the oil fill tube a straight shot to the pan..." Basically, yes; it drops down the front of the timing gears & chain into the front of the pan.

"...is it possible for a piece of the foil that covers the new oil fall into the pan and clog the pick up?" Of course it's possible. :(

"How hard is it to drop the pan and inspect the pump?" I'm glad I don't know the answer to this question; do some searching, it's been address here before.

Keep us posted; good luck & Blessings! :D

[FLSTSS]

Hey thanks for the input!! As for the gears I have something like 373's the way thr RPM's are acting is not like they used to be. I've had the truck for 3 years now and this is something new. At around 60 I would tach around 23-2400 now I bring it up to 70-75 mph and it tachs at 2200 something is wrong. but this is only in OD in 3rd the RPMs are as always I know this cause when I tow I'm in 3rd and @50-55 I'm at 3000ish. the OP just started getting strange driving around town it never dipped below 40 till at a stop, then just above 20psi now it below 5 when in gear and stopped. Something is wrong :( the gauges factory and the mech. OP are pretty much in sync. which I was hope'n they weren't. sigh!