2007HD Brake Controller Harness?? (New Body Style)

[ccole]

Hello all-
I just trade my 2006 Dmax for a 2007 2500HD Dmax last week. The new 2007 is loaded, except no NAV or Intregrated Brake controller. So, I was attempting to install my Tekonsha Prodigy brake controller FROM my 2006 truck INTO my new 2007 and cannot find where to "plug in" the rectangular shaped electrical plug. Have they changed these for the new body styles?

<picture from 2006 brake controller harness attached>

[Duramaster]

I take it that your new truck is not a "CLASSIC"? Is this an LMM engine? :confused: If this is an LMM truck, did it not come with the integrated trailer brake controller? If this is an LMM truck and it did not come with the integrated brake controller, then the wiring is located here




::::::::::::::::::::: Trailer Brake Blunt Cut (Domestic) Under the left side of the I/P, taped to the BCM wiring:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::

[ccole]

Thanks for the reply. Sorry for my lack of clarification regarding my new truck. Yes, it is the LMM w/ new body style, but it is NOT equipped with the integratred trailer brake controller. So, I guess my next question is: What is the "left side of the I/P" and "taped to the BCM wiring"??? Bare with me... I am not up real familiar with all of the acronyms and details of the truck yet... Thank you!




I take it that your new truck is not a "CLASSIC"? Is this an LMM engine? :confused: If this is an LMM truck, did it not come with the integrated trailer brake controller? If this is an LMM truck and it did not come with the integrated brake controller, then the wiring is located here




::::::::::::::::::::: Trailer Brake Blunt Cut (Domestic) Under the left side of the I/P, taped to the BCM wiring:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::

[Duramaster]

I/P = Instrument panel............... BCM = Body Control Module...........


Probably located above your feet behind the trim panel below the steering column. GM Service Information did not have a graphic display of the location.

[Dakster]

After reading this thread, would it be possible to buy the GM Integrated Brake Controller part for the dash, plug it in and be done?

What is the cost of this part? You may want to find out for your dealership as well, since I know of people looking for a truck with the GM Brake Controller. I couldn't find one with it that had all of the other must have options, so I don't have one. Then you could say, we'll add the stock one for $XXX...

BTW, If I had one form my previous truck, I would not trash it in favor of the stock one, just looking at options since I no longer have my old one.

[Duramaster]

I will have to do some research, I think you can add the factory controller after the fact. Keep in mind that there is also an enable procedure for the ITBC (Integrated Brake Controller) that has to be performed by the Tech2. Don't ask me why, it doesn't make sense to me.

[Dakster]

I will have to do some research, I think you can add the factory controller after the fact. Keep in mind that there is also an enable procedure for the ITBC (Integrated Brake Controller) that has to be performed by the Tech2. Don't ask me why, it doesn't make sense to me.

I was hoping you wouldn't need the Tech2 since an Aftermarket one works without having to enable via tech2... That adds another $50 to the cost of adding one. Don't know your customer pay flat rate, but down here it is $100/hr.

[Duramaster]

Yeah, it's $94 an hour here. In my opinion the PDI tech should enable it from the get go.

[Duramaster]

BTW, just checked......... if the truck did not come with the factory Trailer brake controller, It cannot be retrofitted. You have to install the aftermarket one instead. :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: :::::




Subject: Adding Integrated Trailer Brake Controls RPO JL1 - keywords connector electric hydraulic itbc tow towing wire wiring #PIT4388A - (05/24/2007)



Models: 2007 Chevrolet Silverado

2007 GMC Sierra




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This PI was superseded to update RECOMMENDATION/INSTRUCTIONS. Please discard PIT4388.


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The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.

Condition/Concern:
Some customers may request that dealers install the factory Integrated Trailer Brake Controller on their 2007 Full Size pickup when the vehicle was ordered without RPO JL1.

Recommendation/Instructions:
This is to advise you that if vehicle does not have RPO JL1, it can not be retro fitted with a factory trailer brake controller.

Bulletin 06-08-45-008 advises how to install an aftermarket trailer brake controller on vehicles NOT equipped with RPO JL1.

Bulletin 07-08-45-001 advises how to install an aftermarket trailer brake controller under certain conditions if the vehicle IS equipped with RPO JL1.

Please follow this diagnostic or repair process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed.

[Dakster]

Wow. Look at that... Have to go aftermarket. You would have thought GM would want the money, and it shouldn't be that hard since the WIRING is there....

Thanks for looking this up and posting it!

On Edit: Does your dealership pay you $80/hour of the $94 they charge like they do here. :D

[Duramaster]

No? :confused:

[Dakster]

It seems like Dealer hourly fees are getting higher and higher but not the techs salaries, which was the point I was going to make...

If at least they were paying YOU a large portion of that I could understand it.

[Duramaster]

Yeah, a couple of us had that discussion earlier today. I/we are paid hourly and there isn't any incentive pay here. Meaning if we see something wrong with the vehicle and the customer did not come in for it............... well if they decide to fix it GREAT! If not, oh well. I didn't get anymore or ant less. Don't get me wrong.......... I still like my job and I couldn't imagine working anywhere else. Especially when you take in to consideration how much benefits cost. :)

[diegojp]

I just went through the exact same thing on my NBS LMM.
There is no brake controller harness. The wiring is stubbed out under the dash and wrapped in electrical tape. You need to cut of the harness to your Prodigy and wire it directly to these wires. I bleive the orange one doesn't get hooked up but the other four do.
There are also two wires under the hood that you need to attach to the fuse box You don't need to enable these wires with a Tech 2, just hook them up(at least I didn't).
There is one 10 ga. wire wrapped in a coil on the left side of the fuse boxthere is another one wraped in the loom between the fuse box and the fender
If you take the cover off the fuse box you will see 2
studs on the front towards the head lights that do not have any wires on them
that is where they go you will need a 6mm and a 8mm nut to attach them.

Here is a thread from another forum that should be helpful

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=64063&hl=brake+controller

It is pretty eay to do, took me about 10 minutes once I read up on it a bit.

[ccole]

Okay--- I got mine all hooked up and it works, so I thought I would explain the details for other members and make it a little easier for the next guy.

Details

Truck- 2007 2500HD (new body style) NOT equipped with Intregrated Brake Controller

Controller- Prodigy (Made by Tekonsha)

Under Dash Wiring- Under the dash, above/behind the data link connector (by the brake pedal), there is 4 stubbed wires that are taped to a wiring loom. I was able to unwrap a couple wraps of factory electrical tape to expose the following four wires: 1- Red w/ black stripe (heavy gauge wire), Dark Blue (heavy gauge wire), Light Blue (small gauge wire), White (small gauge wire).

How to mate dash wiring to Prodigy Controller-

Pickup wiring side<---------------------------->Prodigy wiring
1. Red w/black stripe <-----------------> Black wire (12v feed)
2. Dark Blue <--------------------> Blue (trailer output voltage)
3. White <------------------------------------>White (ground)
4. Light Blue <---------------------------> Red (stop light input)

Under Hood Wiring- Under the hood, tucked between the drivers side fender and the black fuse box assembly (aka "UBEC"), there is a large wire loom with a Red w/black stripe wire taped to the outside of the loom. It should have an eyelet already mated to the end of the wire, along with a white tag that says something to the affect of "12v feed for trailer." Now, once this red w/black stripe wire has been untaped from the loom, remove the top off the black fuse box assembly (UBEC) to expose 2 male studs on the very front of the fuse box. One is a #8 male metric course thread and the other is #10 male metric course thread. The #10 stud (larger one) is the one that you want to attach the eyelet to. This should energize your controller. Replace your "UBEC" and you should be good to go. (worked for me anyway ;)

Hopefully, it will help somebody out..............

[cowboywildbill]

Hourly Rate! I think our Dealer charges $98.00 per hr. The Tech gets the full $98.00 per hour. Then the Dealership deducts a small amount from the Techs hourly pay to cover shop supplies, I think the fee that is deducted is only $96.00 per hour. Of course the Tech doesn't get to keep all of that money, he has to pay taxes on the remaining two dollars that he got to keep.
You know I am just kidding, but sometimes it seems that way.
I know that there is a lot of overhead, but the dealership has to be making money. I always tip the Tech's that works on my vehicles, even if it is warranty work. And It sure doesn't hurt especially if you have to go back for the same problem or just more work.
I used to spin wrenches for a living many moons ago and usually do my own repairs if it isn't warranty, so I appreciate a competent reliable Tech even more.