Update on the fan clutch mods

[Robyn]

Well today found me with some time on my hands and I managed to get the PSD water pump flange swapped onto the 6.5 pump.
Took all of 2 minutes to do with the right tools.
Greg over at Automotive friction in Clackamas Oregon did the deed and was gracious enough to just take the PSD waterpump core as payment for the labor.
Now the fun begins. I picked up the new water pump pulley at the GM store this afternoon and will get going in ernest now on this thing.

I still need to scrounge up a PSD fan clutch so I can mock up the whole thing prior to getting the Horton fan clutch.

Looks like I may have to press the PSD hub onto the shaft a tad more to allow the shaft to protrude enough to pilot the new fan clutch.
This is going to require a spacer behind the pulley to put it back in alignment with the belt track.

All in all this is starting to look very good.
This is not in any way shape or form going to be a "Cheap" fix BUT once done will eliminate the constant anoyance of a hot running engine.
The ability to run the fan when "YOU" want will be a real plus.
Having the auto control mode so that anyone can drive the vehicle and have no issue plus the manual mode too will be super.

I did take some pix of the two pumps prior to the flange swap so as soon as I have some good materials I will get the stuff posted.

later
Robyn

[JeepSJ]

Nice. I love these kinds of projects.

[Robyn]

Well now
Things are on the move.
The Horton clutch is on order now and the new PSD fan will be here tomorrow afternoon.

The flange from the PSD now resides on the 6.5 130GPM pump. The new water pump pulley is all machined to fit the new flange.

Here are ad
Few pix I took the other day.

Robyn

[j_k_auto]

I do like where you are going with this I think.

Let me get this right. You are going to build a fan like a big truck has that runs automatically or with a switch on the dash like a big truck has?:D

[dieseldummy]

I like where you are going with this Robyn! It would be nice to have a good reliable fan clutch on these motors. I like the way my modified stock unit works, but it is fairly sensitive and runs alot. Keep us posted on your progress!:cool:

[gmctd]

I may have overlooked this, but is the 6.5 shaft same diameter as the PSD shaft?

[Robyn]

Yes they do .7455" on both

This made the whole project come together. Had the shafts been way out the job would have taken on a far different look to it.
Once I found that pretty much Off the shelf parts would get this up and going it started to roll.
The water pump pulley needs to be masaged a bit though to get all the little creatures playing with one another. The flange has to be set back about 3/8 or so farther due to the PSD flange dimentions being a tad different than the 6.5
The whole stack up with the Horton will set the fan about 1/2" or so closer to the radiator.
Looks like the original 95 fan will have to be used as the Horton has a 5" pilot and a 6 bolt fan. The duramax fans ar 4 bolt as are the PSD.

The Horton setup even with the steel fan I believe will have a lower rotational weight as the largest part of the Horton is the magnetic clutch armature and it is held stationary by a strut.
The fan and the though shaft with the clutch plate is all that spins.

I am going to do a mock up on another engine I have here just to make sure there are no supprises at the last minute. :eek:
My biggest concern was the location of the fan as well as the rotational mass. I did not want to add a large amount of weight to the setup.
Looks like things should be very civilized once its done.

The only other concern is the temp sensors. The Horton comes with a water sensor thats on at 210F and off at 193F
I would like on at 205F and off at 185F but the closest they have is on at 200F and off at 188F

I think for now I will go with what comes with it. 210F water temp is a solid number and is not influenced near as much as the air temp bimetal on the viscous drive units. My dually wont come on until tha water hits 220 or so now.
Even with a 180 air temp viscous the water is above that some.


Plus with the manual overide one can just turn it on when you choose.

Horton should be here by mid week next. Then we start to roll big time.
later

Robyn

[moondoggie]

Good Day!

If this works, do you have any intentions of producing these for the masses? Even as cheap as I am, I might buy one or two if the price is right. I don't pull much, but you oughta see the center vent temp rise as soon as the mph goes down. My pickup's A/C will make ice when driven at highway speeds, but she really drops off anywhere else.

If you do produce these for sale, make sure you price it so you're making adequate $$$$$. It serves no one if you cheat yourself - you'll just be unhappy you did it. If it's too much, we just won't buy them, so it all works out. :)

Blessings!

[gmctd]

Where does the temp sensor locate, block or radiator? - Either way, it will come on sooner than the bimetal strip'ed clutches, so that may be a good range - when ya get the sensor, post side\top view pics for show'n'tell

[Craig M]

Robin definitely has the right idea here. Those of us that watch our gauges and know the road ahead appreciate an on/off switch for the radiator fan. Most big rig trucks have a manual switch to engage the fan. I have installed 3 new fan clutches in my 6.5 and they will still not allway engage untill way to late. Engage the switch at the bottom of a big grade and keep water temps low!

[Robyn]

The temp sensor looks just like the one on top of the water crossover for the most part and has a little plug in on it.
I am going to install it in the LH head with a T fitting for the gauge sender.

The other place it could go would be a modified RH rear blockoff plate or the plate from an old 6.2 that has the port for an inhibit switch.
Either way will work.
The rear port will according to some I have talked to be hotter quicker???
The rear cylinders are hotter obviously as they get more clearance.

Big issue is to be able to keep the fan run time predictable and as we have all said turn it on in anticipation of a long hill.

With the fan pulling hard for the entire time on a grade the water temp in the radiator will not get so hot and under worse case scenarios you might see 190F or so and that is liveable.

The radiator is capable of getting rid of the heat its the fan thats the weak link in this sytem.

We shall see.

As it stands right now once I get all the parts set and ready to go maybe I will do a little show and tell video and do a chat about what we have and so on.

Do a little on the road footage with the DaHooooley ya know.

It may just be a real plus for anyone who is serious about towing.
This is not going to be a cheap trick.
The Clutch kit Cost Me $557.00
Then there is the double stat crossover and the RS 180 stats.
The new water pump was $96 at napa for the late HD one.
Then there is the swap on the flange and the few bucks to get a PSD flange.

Probably if this were to be marketed the kit to do the conversion would be in the $1000 area except for trucks that already have the dual stats and the HD water pump.
Unfortunately the flange cant be swapped easily to the 6.5 pump.
The pump pulley also has to be modified.

HMMMMMMMM :)

The fan has to be the early 6.5 6 blade with the 5 inch pilot and 6 bolt pattern.

The cost is not much compared to the cost of rebuilding an engine though.
This setup may add a lot of good miles to the unit though through a big reduction in thermal stress on the engine.
Not too many folks think about the fact that the engine oil will run cooler as will the tranny too with all that extra wind howling through the grill. :D

Suck the bugs right through the radiator, :rolleyes:

later

Robyn

[gmctd]

Sounds good, all around - here's hoping the waterpump bearing is up to the new task - quick squeeze with the calipers would tell the tale.

Post pics of the sensor - could be an epiphany in there some'eres

Btw - nice pic of the rig - one of my most favoritest views ;)

[deiseltranstech]

I think that painless wiring offers a adjustable temp fan switch part #30104 and comes ith relay and wiring, this should do the trick. They also have preset ones with #30102 - 200

[a5150nut]

Robyn,
I just have to know. If you drive Dahoooooly, does that make you a Dahooooolygan? :rolleyes:

I guess I shouldn't tease someone who plays with guns now, should I!:D

[john8662]

The other place it could go would be a modified RH rear blockoff plate or the plate from an old 6.2 that has the port for an inhibit switch.
Either way will work.
The rear port will according to some I have talked to be hotter quicker???
The rear cylinders are hotter obviously as they get more clearance.




Beat me to the punch, I was thinking this when re-reading the post, till I got to what you just said.

Install the probe at the rear of the engine on a blockoff place, Perhaps just drilling and tapping a standard blockoff plate would be sufficient to hold the switch.

I found that the rear temps do indeed run (or appear to run) hotter in this location. They can at times vary 10-15 degrees different from what is being indicated on the factory gauge. I chose to drive by my aftermarket gauge.

Now, where can I find one of these setups to replace the majority of the non-working 6.2 fan clutches for v-belt application? Would be a perfect addition for shorty, cause everyone is saying install electric fans "saves HORSE POWWEEERRRR". Not fer me.

J

[ratman]

Beveryone is saying install electric fans "saves HORSE POWWEEERRRR". Not fer me.

J

Amen to that. Electric fans to me are a band-aid for a poorly designed accessory drive system.

I guess if all you're doing is blasting down the 1/4 mile, electrics are fine.

Any electric fan(s) that is worth it's weight in poo will surely place a higher demand on the electrical system.

In the case of a newer truck, we have the wonderful CS alternators, -which already have their share of cooling problems.

Speaking of alternators, I'd sure love to weasel a 12-SI into my '94, -say bye bye to alternator problems!

What Robyn is doing here is pretty dang cool (pun intended!).

Rich.

[Robyn]

Da Hooooligan here :D

The v belt drives are a snap. Horton has a Metric buttload of clutches that will work with a Clockwise drive. Its the CCW that gets things hinky.

Go to Hortons website
http://www.hortoninc.com/catalog/fan_drive_dim.asp?dboProductLineList=116&dboEngineMan=-1&dboEngineModel=-1&product_line=116&engine_id=-1&sModel=
Cruise through the clutches and there a few that will bolt right onto the 6.2 waterpump hub

The Horton "KIT" comes with all the wiring too as well as the sensors.

The bearing should be up to the task as the stacked dimention will be close to stock and the rotating mass will actually be slightly less than the goooey drive

The shaft is identical in size to the PSD

OH BTW the back side is what the rest of the folks are supposed to see. :D :D :rolleyes:

Last night I was in town briefly to get some groceries and a couple punks at the light are hard timing me about my Dahooooley. Wants to know if Im up to a little sprint and get my shorts blown off??

The light is still red so I powerbrake the monster and rolled both set of duals into a blue cloud of smoke.
The youngerster shut his mouth very quick. ( I was just warming the tires so they would bite good, and he quits :eek: ) HMMMMMMMMMMMmmmmmmm CHICKENNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNN cluck cluck cluck

Just amazes me how quicky a show like that will call their bluff. :D

Later troops

[stepsideD]

That's what this forum is missing, a "smoke tales" section:D !

[john8662]

The v belt drives are a snap. Horton has a Metric buttload of clutches that will work with a Clockwise drive. Its the CCW that gets things hinky.



In Your Words: SWEEEEET (might have missed an E).

I'll start making the wish list to see what'll work, cause the '86 has to take up pulling duties to drag the other truck to the strip to play (the only thing keeping me sane now days).

I've never been satisfied with the factory clutch on it, I really like the KD clutch the '95 has matched with the shaved Dmax Fan (quieter).