I blame Haynes for my stupidity

[David_Jennings]

My post on my Belt Tensioner question was deleted, probably because I learned the hard way that the Haynes Manual on GM trucks through '98 does not prescribe the correct method of loosening the tensioner. The manual shows a breaker bar on the tensioner wheel, and explains that one must turn it counter clockwise. Don't do this until you have checked to see if you in fact have the newer design! The new design has a receptacle for a 3/8" socket, allowing one to apply all the leverege needed to twist the tensioner out of the way. Of course I stripped mine out by putting a socket on the wheel itself; any fool who simply followed instructions and didn't question authority would have done the same. I should have spotted it myself, but the method always worked on my '89 6.2.

I fixed the stripped tension wheel bolt by through-bolting it (putting a bolt all the way through and attaching a nut on the back.) It seems to work fine. Anyone see a problem with this? I'd really like to return the new tensioner I bought, but won't if this fix sounds too risky. It sure seems as strong as the original method of attachment, though. Thanks.

[turbovair]

Be careful with Haynes, the manual I have covering the wifes 96 Sable is the worst I've seen. Tried to take the trans out per their instructions and it wouldnt physically come out.There was imply not enough room. Had to call a trans shop who told me the entire subframe had to be removed, a small detail Haynes apparently overlooked.

[rjschoolcraft]

Your through-bolt approach should work fine, as long as there are no clearance issues with the protruding end of the bolt on the back side.

[ucdavis]

And I'd suggest (if you haven't) using a nylon lock nut rather than lock washer/nut due to vibration of the belt telegraphing to your bolt.

[David_Jennings]

Clearance is fine, and I did use a nylon lock nut on the back side. Thank you so much for the advice.

[norm]

I have had trouble with Haynes, too. Not only are their techniques off sometimes, the specs and info are also not always reliable. If something you are working on doesn't make sense - verify.

[GMCfourX4]

I have attempted to use both Haynes and Chilton's manuals for both my '88 Full-Size Jimmy and my '97 K2500, and I can't even begin to describe how frustrating they are. The $100 I spent on the Helm manual was WELL worth it. I believe it is about $120 direct from <a href="http://www.helminc.com" target="_blank">www.helminc.com (http://www.hemlinc.com) </a> If you do any work yourself, save the arrgrovation and get the right manual for your truck. You can also find them sometimes on eBay.

-Chris

[Turbo Al]

David your are NOT alone! Haynes actually had the rotor direction on my 72 Lemans wrong, it was not a pretty sight when I tried to flash up the new motor, & I am sorry to say it took me a couple of mins to figure out just what the heck was going on.

[moondoggie]

Good Day!

I ALWAYS buy the Helms (which is the factory) manual for every vehicle I own. I balance the ≈ $120 for each manual against the 1st service shop bill I don't pay by doing it myself - these manuals are a STEAL at this price.

Blessings!

Brian Johnson, #5044

'82 6.2 1500 4X4 1/2T pickup, 4spd man w/ OD, bone stock, 335K+, "In Rust We Trust"
'89 6.2 4X4 1/2T pickup, bone stock, 146K+
'95 6.5TD 2500 4X4 heavy 3/4T pickup, Gear Vendors Aux. OD, 185K +
'95 6.5TD 1500 4X4 3/4T Suburban, Kennedy exhaust, 200K +