Reliability Mods in Order

[Stratosurfer]

All,
Outside of my FSD remote mounts and Amsoil bypass filters and K&N Filtercharger my 2 sleds are completely stock.
Would the senior members please give their opinions on what are the mandatory mods for continued -reliability- in the 6.5 TD and in order of priority.
For instance the 98 Burb is inexplicably stalling and immediately restarting. It has 1) New DIJ pump under warranty 30K miles ago
2) As mentioned FSD remote mounted on the FSD cooler

I am hoping the vets here can come up with consensus opinions where we go in all the suggested mods: OPS sensor upgrade. Lift pump upgrades.
I suppose I would ask the group to group the updates as: MANDATORY, ASAP, and AT SOME POINT/OEM FAILURE.

I know the knowledge base runs deep here and I just want to keep my 6.5TD's -reliable- first. I will add power later.
Thanks to all.

[tommac95]

I
clean radiator good, and back to condensor core. You all ready have the '97+ cooling updates , which are big issue on earlier stuff.
II
clean up battery cable connections, both ends. Clean up the engine harness ground connections at rear psgr head stud on coolant block-off plate by transmission dipstick bracket support.
III
Install new OPS with J. Kennedy harness kit , or a nice diy relay to protect the OPS points.
IV
Install a redundant (secondary or primary) fuel filter ... if not interested , install any inline fuelfilter between the OEM conditioner , and the FIP. Remove , clean , inspect the OEM cannister assy.
If you want to shop fuel for price , definitely add a filter with a transparent bowl for visual checks.

[sturgeon-phish]

EGT gauge
fuel lube additative
Trans temp gauge

[93_Burrito]

Aside from inspecting your electrical connections, your FSD could be heading south... even if it was replaced with the fuel injection pump.

The DS4 electronic fuel injection pump came into the picture for the purpose of controlling emissions. Most who prefer the DS4 claim to do so because of the drivetrain safeguards provided by the PCM, and you can gain some extra power without going under the hood. Unfortunately, no one has ever solved the FSD dilemna...

If you want the most reliable setup, convert to mechanical fuel injection (DB2 pump). This isn't as simple as just swapping the pump, but other members have been there and done that. Member bobbiemartin wrote a guide for doing such a conversion, I would suggest getting in touch with him... or maybet he will chime in here.

I don't know the emission laws of Texas, so do your homework first. But I believe mechanical fuel injection is the ticket for the 6.5L's.


Andy

[Robyn]

The PMD/FSD needs to be out of the "Crispy zone"

Get that little beast down under the front on the inside of the front splash pan. (It folds down easily to allow access) There are many outfits that sell extention cables.
Inside the cab is also a good choice.
The top of the engine is still too hot no matter what.

The factory fuel filter is a 10 micron unit.
A 10 micron filter is marginal at best, it will keep out dead birds, sage brush and large pebbles but certainly not the kind of filtration one needs on their expensive DS4 system.

The location is poor for servicing and you cant see whats in the bottom unless you take it apart and look.
Racor make some sweet little units that flow 30GPH that can be mounted up front on the drivers side.

2 micron filtration is the ticket.
I just did this conversion on my 95 dually.
The filter has a bowl you can look in plus a nice water drain and a primer pump too.

Was $121.00 at the filter supply house.

Just a note here. Almost everyone here knows I have no love for the electronics on these beasties but the conversion to a DB2 is a tad more complicated than I would recommend for most folks to tackle.

The conversion when done right runs the engine just sweet, the issues are with the tranny and getting the TPS system working well enough so the driveability is good. I have driven two Burbs that were converted I will say this, IT WAS JUST OK and nothing to write home about.
The power is great, reliability is great, overall driveability was, Hmmm rough shifts and not the comfort these rigs are known for.

If your IP is good and your PMD is kept cool (real cool) the issue should go away.

When you remote the PMD the ground wire still needs to stay attached to the IP and the PMD will take care of itself.
Dont mount the little creature where it will get exposed to the weather and other nasty stuff.

Good luck

Robyn

Robyn