rocker arms and pushrods options. Would you replace them. pics

[j_k_auto]

Well I got my rocker arms and pushrods out and it looks like I might need to replace them. I am not a engine builder but I do know when things don't look so well. It looks like I need to replace at least 5 pushrods look worn down & outa round. I am not sure about the rockers.

Ok lets see what you think.:(
here is all 20 pics
http://www.putfile.com/j_k_auto/images/123685

thanks joe

[john8662]

Some of those rockers shouldn't be re-used.

General rule of thumb on rockers on the pushrod end.

The wear indicator is the contact surface inside where the ball contacts. Pay attention to the hole where oil is allowed to leave. Anything beyond 1/2 way worn (the circle) into that hole and the rocker should be replaced.

Ideally, the wear ring should stay away from the bleed hole.

for the tips that contact the valve stems, they're supposed to get shiny from wear in this area, it's when you can feel a big bump around the edges that the wear is too much. Unfortunatly, this is wear on BOTH the end of the rocker and the valve stem.

Pushrods, you have scoring on a few rods, these should be replaced.

Possible contamination issue or passing metal in the system.

Since your're in there, take a look below at the lifters, make sure they're all good and pumped up and that you have no flat or bled down ones. This test can be performed with a pushrod.

J

[j_k_auto]

I was thinking about the lifters but it looks like you can only get them buy removing the heads. Also I was thinking on taking out the cam and seeing what it looks like to but not sure how far I want to go. I wonder if the cam is worth looking at and how hard will it be to remove.

[john8662]

You can peek at the lifters from above, you can even remove them all from above, but carefully.

Not worth pulling the cam for this, just repair what you see is necessary currently.

J

[j_k_auto]

Well I did look at the engine again. They are way down there and I can see them. It looks like they are behind a bolted in assembly.:eek:

[j_k_auto]

You can peek at the lifters from above, you can even remove them all from above, but carefully.

Not worth pulling the cam for this, just repair what you see is necessary currently.

J

Also I sent you a pm

[Robyn]

I would say after looking at the pics to toss the whole lot of it except maybe the rocker shafts unless they are badly worn too.

Here is the issue I see that probably happened.
The push rods on the 6.2/6.5 have one hardened end and one that is not.

The push rods have a copper color on one ball end, this goes to the rocker (UP) too many techs dont know this and just stick them back in any old way and what you have is what happens.

The hardened end must go into the rocker.

The plastic buttons that go between the rockers are readily availbale from MA General and are easy to tap in with a small mallet and a 3/4" plastic rod.

Upon reassembly use moly cam lube on the rocker fulcrum points and the push rod tips.

Now you can get the lifters out without removing the heads. (Its a bitch but doable.

You first remove the bolted in clamp the holds the guides in place.
A sneeky pete gizzmo with a handle acuated gripper will snake them out of the valley with ease.
The guides can then be fetched out and then once all the little stuff is out you can use a lifter puller and remove them lifters from their bores one at a time and snake them out and up through the center access holes in the head.

Granted its much easier when the heads are off for sure.

Chances are that the lifters are ok as these usually see little wear.

Now when you reassemble the thing be careful when you bolt the rocker assemblies back down as you can stuff valves into pistons with the lifters pumped all the way.

The best way is to make sure you dont have any pistons at TDC or just do the procedure slowly and if you encounter undo resistance stop and let things bleed off.
Once all the rockers are back on be sure and roll the engine though with a bar by hand to be sure you dont have anything hitting or binding.

It gets real ugly if you have some valves getting into pistons.
Valve to piston clearance is very skimpy in these engines and if a lifter does not bleed down correctly you can have a wreck.

As long as you can roll though easily by hand your good to go.

Good luck

Robyn

[JeepSJ]

Hmmm. I remember looking at my pushrods and could not tell the difference between the ends. Methinks that maybe I should inspect them soon. Too bad it is such a *&^%$# to pull the valve covers on these.

[j_k_auto]

well thanks to a member here I think I know why mine went bad. When my heads were replaced 3 yrs ago the previous owner must of mixed them up and wa la you see what happens.:(

[Robyn]

If you look them over you will see that one end has a copper color on the ball which will be evident even after wear and will show on the lower half where there is no contact.
Bet you will find many have wear on the non coated end from being in backwards.. :eek:

The factory was too cheap to harden both ends. Even replacement stuff is made this way too.

Robyn

[john8662]

Robyn and I nailed it, pushrods likely installed with the premium end downwards.

You can tell the difference with the mark gone though.

Look on the inside of the pushrod, the copper colored end (on the inside of the spray hole) will be the part that goes up.

J

[j_k_auto]

I tried looking and looking and I can't see any difference from the to ends. I looked and looked. Oh btw did you check out my comression test vids john?
I updated about pulling my engine.

thanks joe

Also it was great talking to ya;)