New fuel filter for the dually

[Robyn]

After 6 rigs with the 6.5 I am fed up with the little GM dixie cup fuel filter assembly.

The dually took to leaking yesterday and that was all I could handle.
Called the local pump shop today and talked with Mark the owner and he fixed me up with a nice little Racor unit

A model 120A with the 12RS filter which is a 2 Micron filter.
This little jewel will mount on a bracket just ahead of the ABS pump unit.

Going to be rid of the fuel lines running under the manifold now once and for all.
This unit has a viewable fuel bowl as well as a water drain and an air vent.
It will be nice to just drain the thing into a coffee can and not have diesel all over the back of the engine every time you change the filter.
The filter replacement elements are available at NAPA so thats a plus.

Will be nice to not have to worry about the common failiures of the water seperator fuel heater unit any more. Plus not having to crawl into the engine bay to get at it.

Going to replumb the fuel line along the LH inner fender and then across to the IP.
Easy to service and fixable with simple tools even on the side of the road.

later
Robyn

[stingthieves]

Does it also have a fuel heater?

[Robyn]

No it does not. Actually this whole thing got blown all over this afternoon.
Finally after two hours of talking on the phone I got a filter that will do the job.

Its a Racor 445 and will pass 45 gallons per hour.
I never thought that I would need a filter that big but I was informed that the combination of fuel being burned under WOT plus what is needed to circulate through the pump to cool it and so on aproaches 30 GPH so here we go.

They do make filters with heaters as well as water indicators too.
I dont need a heater and the filter has a bowl that is visible so every time I check the oil I can see the thing.

Here in Oregon cold enough temps that would require a heater are rare.

[j_k_auto]

How are you going to turn your warning lights off? I was thinking about doing this myself but just not sure what I want to do.:confused:

[Robyn]

One of two way
1- remove the dash cluster and take out the bulb
2- remove the water in fuel probe and plug it back into the harness and leave it at that.

The water in fuel light is nice but the rest of the package sucks so its going away.

I will se about getting some pix of things as I redo it today so all can see how I am doing the change over.

I dont know whether the OBD1 system is tied in with the water in fuel setup but we shall see.
I really dont think it is and I dont ever remember a code for such.

later

Robyn

[NH2112]

The 445 is a great filter, I used one as my secondary w/2 micron element with the model 80 primary relocated to the radiator support. The nice thing is you can find filter elements on eBay - I picked up a case of 6 R60S for something like $80 shipped, which is about what 2 elements will cost you at the parts stores.

[Robyn]

OK here is how it all came out.
My original filter was junk as the bottom of the heater was coroded and had started to leak.
I cleaned and washed the old filter element and dried it plus cleaned and dried the housing. I put rubber caps on all the in and out nipples and then cut off the heater wires totally.
I reinstalled the old filter and then bolted the unit back on with the water sensor plugged in to the harness. The system is happy because it sees the sending probe. The bracket that the wiring all clips too is back where its supposed to be and all is well.

The new filter is doing the work and I am just happy as a pig in, ah :eek:
Well you know what. :D

[trbankii]

I think I understand you to say that you just closed up the old filter with the sensor in it - no fuel running through it, just through the new one now - but wanted to make sure I was reading correctly.

I'd be interested in the part numbers you used and the bracket diagram.

[Robyn]

I ended up using a Racor 230R2 filter assembly.
This unit is a 2 micron filter and the stock is about a 10 (Sifts out medium sized rocks and small birds)

I was told the 2 micron was the ticket so to me it seems like a great idea.

The bracket bolts onto the LH fender using the front two bolts that fasten the ABS to its brackets.
I made the bracket out of 10 gauge steel and broke a right angle foot onto it to bolt it to the fender.

With the bracket bolted on the top of the bracket is in the same plane as the top of the engine.

The top of the filter is just below the upper radiator hose so it does not rub.

The outlet fitting is about 3 inches from the alternator and faces the firewall and the hose goes across the valve cover and to the IP.

I removed the old filter to clean up the mess and then used a double 3/8 Barb to connect the new hose to the one that comes up from the pump and then directed it across the valve cover by the wastegate solenoid and under the hydroboost unit and then around under the bracket that holds the electrical box (95 model) and then around by the washer fluid bottle and then by the battery and to the filter.

Works great and is neat and sanitary

The reason I kept the old unit is to satisfy the water in fuel sensor circuit.
Just washed out the old unit and then capped it to keep moisture and stuff out. No biggy either way.

Thats about it..

Robyn

[JohnC]

As I stated in the other thread, the water in fuel circuit doesn't care. Leave it sensorless and it simply thinks there is no water.

[DeezilDoc]

In 84 I had a 6.2 in my service truck,I put a 200 Racor between the tank and the stock filter on the firewall, the great thing about it was that the water in fuel light would start to flicker whenever the racor would need a change,it served as a fuel pressure guage. Put 200k on that truck and never changed the factory filter again