Wiper motor circuit board

[winemaker]

I searched past threads but was unable to find the how-to I was looking for. My wipers do the disappearing act from time to time and I wanted to solder the circuitboard, but I'm not clear on what exactly one does. In a couple posts, writers suggest that it could be done in place rather than having to remove the motor. This sounds like a better option for me than removing the whole shebang, but I could do the whole removal if that's the way to go. I unplugged the connector and removed the black plastic cover, and I don't know what I'm looking at or looking for. Can anyone describe in detail what a person is looking for and how to fix it.

I tried to see if the circuitboard and female connector could be removed from the housing, but it looked sketchy so here I am. Thanks! Brett

[tommac95]

Hello Wino-

The circuit board comes off while the motor stays in place.

I plumb forget how it went ... but i recall care was necessary about losing a screw(s?!) or something.

I can personally email you a 1.076MB image of the board [if you get me an address, maybe thru MorePower] , indicating lost connectivity, but it's pretty obvious where the problem is:
There is an array of largish blade terminals soldered to the board , transmitting power, right near the multiple-pin connector to the engine wiring harness. These solder connections somehow loosen up, need remelting , preferably with good rosin-core electronic-grade solder.

T m.

[Beedee]

I did mine a couple of years ago, can't recall the whole procedure, but it was very easy, it all came apart like nothing. I don't recall if there was a screw or not, but not much to it. I soldered up I think 7 pins that had a cracked solder joint. Hasn't missed a beat since.
Paid for my subscription right there.
Good luck
Brian

[Robyn]

yes the board comes off real easy with just the plug and 3 screws and the board slides off the motor towards you.
The circuits are fairly easy to identify.
The major connectors where the plug in hooks up are some of the offenders.
I used my old board for a frissbee and got a fresh one from NAPA.

Used to have to get out and run around and toss up the hood at a stop light a swat the wiper motor to get it going.
One looks real foolish doing this sort of thing.

We were heading to a family funeral and the rain was nasty and the wipers quit. :eek:
I am dressed in a suit with a fairly short skirt and pounce out the Burb and run around to beat on the wiper motor. OH MY GAWD what stares I got from people in traffic.
Oh well gave them something to talk about me thinks :D

[winemaker]

Thanks for direction. When I tried to remove the board, 3 corners came away no problem, but the lower left corner is held in. It appears to be some kind of friction-fit, perhaps barbed peg coming through the board. By what you say, I just have to work that corner a bit to get it out. I was afraid I would do something spectacular like snap the board trying to caveman it out! Thanks again. Brett

[Robyn]

I dont remember any issues to getting the sucker off the motor.
The wiring plug usually will lose its locking device when you flex it far enough to disengage the board but most of those things suffer the same fate due to the heat and time factor.

If you find your plug needing help, GM sells a pigtail that you can replace the plug and about 4 inches of wire with.

All the wires are white so you have to just lay the plugs along side each other and cut the wires one at a time and locate and attach the proper one from the new harness.

Good luck

Robyn

[rameye]

GM did a big recall on that board...maybe call a stealer and see if your truck qualifies...they did mine...10 years after the fact, no questions asked.

[JohnC]

A few years back I was on a trip to Mexico. I and a few friends hired this guy to drive us around and tell us tall tales about the area. He had a late model Suburban. We got caught in a rain storm. Anyone guess what came next? ;)

[sturgeon-phish]

I have fixed several of these by re-soldering the board. And as others have said there was a recall, and the replacement board is under $20. BTW not just our trucks have this issue. If it is a late 80 - 90 something GM is probably has the same setup and prone to the same failure.
Jim

[94 at Large]

Took mine in as I had read of the recall on this, however I didn't fall into the recall years. If I'm not mistaken it started with 95 up. $65 later :( and all is well. Paid too much I'm sure but they had just replaced the IP, under warranty:D (just squeaked in), so I didn't get upset.