Rebuilding Front Suspension

[GMC Hauler]

It's getting time for me to rebuild some of the front suspension. My tires are worn, and before I get new tires, i'd like to fix the problems with the suspension to prevent damaging the new tires.

What I know is that one of my ball joints is worn, and my idler arm is loose. Those will get replacing for sure. One of the rotors has a groove, which will also get replaced.

What I'd like to hear is advice on how far to go, what particular parts you used and where you got them from, and your experience thus far with said parts. I'm always a fan of improving on factory design.

Thanks.

[JoeyD]

Get all Moog parts. Replace everything as you will have it all apart at that point.

[JeepSJ]

You can't go wrong with Moog parts. They have ball joints, idler arms, tie rod ends, etc... As a bonus most of the Moog parts are equipped with zerk fittings so you can keep them lubed. If you are in there, I think you might as well do all the high-wear parts. If a-arm bushings appear to be OK, I'd leave those alone as they are a major pita to change. Upper and lower ball joints, idler arm, and tie rod ends should all be on your list.

[rjschoolcraft]

Check everything first. I have 226,000 miles on my Suburban with original ball joints and tie rod ends. I had to replace the pitman arm and idler arm a while back, but everything else was tight. Why spend money and time that you don't need to?

[opto]

Suppose you already have the new style idler arm, if not a conversion to it would be a good thing.

How about the wheel bearings?

Mine are bad, seems as you have to buy them with hub already installed, anybody knows if you could buy only the bearings?

[GMC Hauler]

It's all stock from the factory. Could you explain what the new style idler arm is?

Thanks

[Hansh]

I would only replace the worn parts. Check everything and see where there is movement in the front end parts, including the unit bearings.

You may want to take it to a shop and have them put it up on rack and check it over, ask to see the movement in the parts. It is easier to check on a rack than on the floor of your garage.

I think if you buy the unit bearing/hub assembly from the dealer it comes with the rotor. (??) I just replaced the idler and pitman arm. The pitman arm was a PITA!! About 6 months ago I replaced the upper ball joints, had 230k on the originals, the pitman and idler arms had about 240k. Lower ball joints and outer tie rod ends are original, 244k now.

If the part is not worn and you have been greasing it, there is no need to replace it. I used to work as a front end/suspension mechanic while in college. We would only replace parts as needed. Then we would always do an alignment. Most parts do not change caster and camber in any major way (except control arm bushings), but toe will change if you change a tie rod end, idler, pitman, center link, etc. If you are careful and measure your parts before taking apart, and replace with the same measurments, your toe should be pretty close, but it also depends on how similar the parts are. So, after changing those type parts, make sure to check your toe.

[DA BIG ONE]

Originally posted by GMC Hauler:
Could you explain what the new style idler arm is?

Thanks I would like to know too, it maybe the one for the Hummer real HD.

[NH2112]

The new-style idler arm has 3 bolts instead of 2 mounting it to the frame, which keeps it from loosening up as fast as the old ones did.

[opto]

The new-style idler arm is a two-piece design, one arm and one axle with a bushing at each end, aproximately 3-4 inches apart.

The old design is only one bushing that is about 1 inch long, this is the two bolt version. This design won't last very long if you run tall tires and wheels with big offset.