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djchaddock
06-20-2007, 08:17
Hey guys I'm new to this forum and have a few questions? First I have 1997 1500 chevy that is pretty much stock execpt for the mechanical wastegate from heath diesel. I was wanting to put new exhaust on it but I don't know which will be better, 4" or 5". I have the heath tork ecm on the way now and I'm ordering the snow performance stage 3 water/meth injection system. Need to know which exhaust will be the best for this setup. Also is there a cold air intake for this truck? All I see is intakes for ones without mass air flow sensors? PLEASE HELP!

gmctd
06-20-2007, 10:28
Welcome to the 'Page, dj............

3.5" or 4" exhaust is more than sufficient - may not have real estate for the more impressive 5".

Your oem airbox is ducted thru the fender to the radiator bulkhead - the fender is insulated along that duct - are some things that can be done to improve that and not expose the filter to underhood heat, which is bad for the 6.5.

The rest of the upgrades will work together to but a big silly grin on your face - gotta be careful, dude, or people will begin to talk.

djchaddock
06-20-2007, 18:19
thanx man for the info. Also my truck seems to sometime feel like its dying on take off and when I try to pass someone, then black smoke boils out of the end and the truck basically goes nowhere until I let off the throttle and then get back into it and it clears up. If you have a clue let me know.

Their aren't to many of these trucks around for me to ask someone around here.

Robyn
06-20-2007, 18:54
My dually has a Banks stinger system which is very user friendly and installs easily with hand tools.
The kit has some mods for the inner fender air inlet to improve the airflow to the air box.
There are also better air filters than stock too that will allow the little diesel rat to BREEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEETH better.

The Banks system is 3-1/2" and has a lovely deep throaty sound without being obnoxious.
Dont forget a nice set of gauges (Boost, Pyro)


Have fun and leave the powerstrokes alone. They sometimes dont play well with others if you blow their doors off :D

Robyn

gmctd
06-20-2007, 19:25
Black smoke is dirty air filter, or bad load of fuel - if not, you got the turbomaster adjusted too lean - crank down on the screw another turn or so, but check the air filter first - Diesel air filters get dirty a lot faster than gasser filters - gassers (patooie!) run on near-closed throttle mostly - Diesels have no throttle-plate, drawing full complement of atmosphere on each intake stroke.

djchaddock
06-21-2007, 06:52
Thanx I'll try a new filter and back the turbomaster off a little, I'll let you know how it works.

gmctd
06-21-2007, 10:26
You'll need to adjust the nut for more tension to increase Boost - but, you'll at least one gage for engine protection: Exhaust Gas Temperature - add a Boost gage for reference - together, they provide a window on the life-line of your engine

djchaddock
06-21-2007, 18:22
I changed the air filter and turned the wastegate in a little and I get the same results. It almost feels like the turbo is not working. Could it be my mass air flow sensor going bad?????????????

djchaddock
06-22-2007, 07:34
up!!!!!!!!!!!

Robyn
06-22-2007, 08:27
A 1500 has an EGR system.
make sure that it is working right. If the egris meesed up it will cause what you are describing.

We cant advocate the removal of such devices, but I can assure you that its not helping the power cause any.

Just be sure its working right and not stuck open.
The computer cant tell if the mechanical part of that valve is not working right.

What happens/can happen is the EGR sticks open and then when you dump a big load of fuel into the thing the exhaust dilluted intake air will not burn the fuel properly and poof, huge cloud of smoke and no power.

You can test this by blocking off the egr unit (Toad stool looking device on top of the air hat)

If this helps replace the EGR valve and or trouble shoot further to make sure of exact cause.

Check it out

Robyn

gmctd
06-22-2007, 09:29
Also, if you're runing higher than normal Boost levels on the "S" engine, the increased exhaust pressure can blow a normally functioning EGR valve off-seat, dumping exhaust into the intake, so follow Robyn's advice B4 you do much else.

hayhauler69
06-22-2007, 12:59
So, if more boost pressure causes this, then would a 40HP chip do the same thing? Doesn't it raise boost also? Just trying to figure out why my truck 'misses' looses power, not sure if it smokes.
Sent chip back for another reburn, so I'll see what happens when I get it back.

gmctd
06-22-2007, 13:03
That's on the 1500 series with the "S" EGR engine, 'hauler - your 2500 has EGR?

hayhauler69
06-22-2007, 18:42
Thar's a big ole mushroom on top of air box.
And it's an 'S' VIN.
Sure enough GMCTD
WHATDAYATHINK?

DmaxMaverick
06-22-2007, 19:28
Many of the LD 2500's (7200 GVWR) had S powerplants, but not all years or emmissions states. If you have 6 lug wheels, it's a sure bet, but some had 8 lug semi-floaters. Look at the sticker at the driver's door latch, or decypher the RPO codes in the glove box. The F/S is the 8th digit of the VIN. If your VIN is an F, the engine has been swapped.

Also....If you have a chip for an F engine, but you have an S, it sure could explain a lot.

hayhauler69
06-22-2007, 19:37
Yes, mines an 8 lug semi-float and an 'S' in the vin.
Although I'm not convinced it's the original engine.
But no matter. I'm tempted to change the EGR valve, well, just because.
And the boost pressure sensor too while I'm at it. Heck, it's only money:eek: Oh, I just looked at the price:eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek:
Buzz

gmctd
06-22-2007, 20:29
Yep - the "S" EGR return-spring is calibrated for less exhaust pressure than is available in the "F" engines, so an "F" chip upgrade would cause some blow-by problems

Cranking down on the turbomaster would cause the same blow-by when exceeding PCM-controlled Boost levels - takes more exhaust velocity\pressure to make more Boost

djchaddock
06-23-2007, 08:49
Hey guys where is the cheapest place to get a EGR valve? Autozone's are $200.00 Also I turned the turbomaster in and it help out but still lagging sometimes, but not as much.

twaddle
06-23-2007, 11:50
If I was you I'd save the money and blank off the EGR, also plug the end of the vacuum hose that goes on to the EGR.
Problem solved. The engine will run fine.

Jim

djchaddock
06-24-2007, 07:37
What do you mean by blank off the egr. Explain please in detail.

twaddle
06-24-2007, 13:20
Hi,
One of my neighbours has a K2500 light duty "S" engine and after he had the same kinda trouble we decided to blank off the EGR. I figured if my Suburban "F" engine can run ok without an EGR there's no reason why the S serious engine couldn't run without the EGR.

I made up and installed a blanking plate under the EGR (in the centre of the plenum where the exhaust gas comes up into the intake area.

So as not to upset the vacuum system I plugged the end of the vacuum hose.

His truck has ran ok since.

Regards

Jim

djchaddock
06-24-2007, 16:26
Let me get this right. Take a piece of sheet metal and bolt it where the egr is and plug up the vacuum hose.

twaddle
06-24-2007, 16:52
Yep!
That's about it.

Use a wee drop of exhaust sealer paste as extra insurance.

Jim