View Full Version : Water pump weeping. Help on removal
Rick Henderson
06-19-2007, 21:13
The dealer wanted $500. to remove and replace. I took on the challange and am not doing very well. Do I have to remove the harmonic balancer to get to the one bolt? How do you get this fan off? I figured how to remove the darn fan shroud, and was able to remove all of the bolts but the one under the balancer.
Thanks,
Rick
Rick Henderson
06-19-2007, 21:30
Disconnect the negative battery cable. Refer to Battery Negative Cable Disconnect/Connect Procedure in Engine Electrical.
Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
Remove the right fender wheelhouse panel. Refer to Wheelhouse Panel Replacement In Body Front End.
Remove the starter motor bolts and set aside. The wiring to the starter does not require removal.
Install J 44643 in order to lock the flywheel.
Lower the vehicle.
Remove the upper and lower fan shroud. Refer to Fan Shroud Replacement - Upper and Fan Shroud Replacement - Lower in Engine Cooling.
Remove the crankshaft balancer bolt.
Remove the crankshaft balancer. The balancer is a slip fit design and should slide off. If the balancer can be turned side to side the pin in the crankshaft is worn and the pin should be replaced.
If required, clean and inspect the balancer.
Rick Henderson
06-19-2007, 21:32
What size is the balancer bolt and where to get the tool to lock the flywheel?
Thanks,
Rick
Rick Henderson
06-19-2007, 21:53
Is the balancer bolt a 36mm 12 point? I bet it should be torqued around 250lbs or so?
Thanks,
Rick
hey rick i did a water pump in my 01 lb7.as you already know the harmonic balancer has to come off . i had to use a 3/4 socket set 36mm and a 4 foot piece of pipe with a little bit of heat. i also jambed a big prybar through the opening in the bellhousing to stop the converter from turning
Rick Henderson
06-21-2007, 00:40
hey rick i did a water pump in my 01 lb7.as you already know the harmonic balancer has to come off . i had to use a 3/4 socket set 36mm and a 4 foot piece of pipe with a little bit of heat. i also jambed a big prybar through the opening in the bellhousing to stop the converter from turning
Well, I got it done today without the special tool, but I made my own. It worked so good that I didn't need to heat it up, but did need to use a breaker bar and a jack handle. I will post some pictures as it was so easy to make.
Didn't have to remove the radiator either.
I also noticed the aluminum air pipe below the battery was rubbing a line that it wore thru and there is a 1/4 x 2" hole! Looks like that will have to be welded.
Found that the exhaust bracket on the passenger side is broken. That will have to be welded too.
Philsauto
06-25-2007, 18:33
Well, I got it done today without the special tool, but I made my own. It worked so good that I didn't need to heat it up, but did need to use a breaker bar and a jack handle. I will post some pictures as it was so easy to make.
Didn't have to remove the radiator either.
I also noticed the aluminum air pipe below the battery was rubbing a line that it wore thru and there is a 1/4 x 2" hole! Looks like that will have to be welded.
Found that the exhaust bracket on the passenger side is broken. That will have to be welded too.
The hole in the pipe on the left side is bad news. That pipe goes to your turbo intercooler. It is rubbing on the power steering hose. You need to have the hole welded up and position the tube so it has some clearance. With the hole there you are loosing turbo pressure right out the hole and under conditions of low intake pressure, you could be sucking dirt and muck into the motor. The broken bracket on the turbo outlet pipe you saw on the right side is less important. The weight of the exhaust system is mostly resting on the forward pipe mount so that bracket is more to control vibration. Removing that turbo outlet pipe is a thrill a minute, so if you plan to do it, get some really strong friends and a really strong 12mm, 12 point socket to remove the 4 bolts that go into the turbo and good luck.
Rick Henderson
06-26-2007, 10:13
I took the down pipe off last Thursday and had it patched. Then repositioned the pipe so it won't rub anymore.
I wonder what happened to all of that metal that was worn away? I hope it blew out instead of in the motor? Its aluminum but.......
Can the bracket be welded in place? I would hate to ruin something though. There is nothing in the way of welding it right where it sits.
Thanks
DmaxMaverick
06-26-2007, 10:31
......Can the bracket be welded in place? I would hate to ruin something though. There is nothing in the way of welding it right where it sits.
Thanks
Yes. I've done mine and others several times. Of course, normal welding precautions should be taken. Actually, welding it in place is desirable. On a hot engine, the metal halves are in a pre-stressed position, so don't try to close the gap before welding.
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