Peltier Thermo-electric cooler for the PMD

[billschall]

Just rec'd my 2007 FSD since the 2006 model died after a little less than a year of use (Way to go Stanadyne! Keep bringing on those high quality parts!).

Anyway, off my bitchbox and on to something more positive/constructive.

Anybody here do any experimentation with these Peltier Junction coolers? Saw a reference to them over @ AccurateDiesel and some information around the web, but nothing showed up on TDP regarding these things.

Any thoughts? 'cause, if I gotta replace this thing every year, I'm going over to the dark side w/ a Powerstroke or Cummins...... :eek:

-Bill

[gmctd]

Just how 'remote' is your FSD\'sink?

And how tite are the module driver nuts?

[hayhauler69]

For 16.00 bucks + shipping how could you go wrong.
I'm tempted. Just for the fun of it.

[billschall]

Just how 'remote' is your FSD\'sink?

And how tite are the module driver nuts?

The sink was mounted on the upper intake plenum from last June til December, then moved to front radiator support between driver's headlight & battery during the head project this winter. Bolts are @ 23" lbs. and were checked about 1000 miles after install last summer.

When I replaced the FSD on the sink last night, I used Artic Silver instead of the white thermal paste and then put the sink back on the plenum with the FSD facing up. Artic Silver is expensive, but is what I use on computer processors when replacing them on sinks.

I don't think it was getting enough air behind the headlight.

Since I replaced the OEM air box w/a K&N cone filter, I'm thinking about mounting the sink over the air inlet on pass fender well. Or, remove the convoluted tube below pass side battery that feeds air up through that mess.

Or, maybe I'll just install a refrigeration unit in my cap, turn my bed into a reefer and put the damn thing in there.

Hayhauler69: Where'd you see 'em for $16?

[a5150nut]

Wasn't $16.00 but close................

http://www.apogeekits.com/peltier.htm

[gmctd]

I'm talking the 4 @ 1/4" nuts on the transistor drivers, not the module attaching screws - the nuts and studs are stainless steel, as are the transistor cases.

Try backing the nuts off, then run them down finger-tite, then 1/4-turn more with a nut-driver - that re-establishes electrical continuity between the cases and the pcb, thence to +12v power.

Also, when moving the module\'sink into cooler ambients with weather exposure, you will need to weather-proof the assembly - after mounting the module, clean the assy with lacquer thinner - run a 1/4" bead of RTV completely around the module - run your little finger around the bead to force\smooth it in - put a little RTV in each screw, also on screw holes on the opposite side of the 'sink - let it cure, and you're weather-proofed.

The oem weather-pak connector is, as indicated, weather-proof.

If the previous module is oxidized\rusty, scrub the dirt off in hot soapy water - rinse it in hot water, dry it - dip it in CLR - rinse\dry - dip in CLR again to remove any scale left from the previous dip - rinse in hot water - dry it - do the chromium oxide burnishing procedure - plug it in, see if it will run the engine

I rescued a weathered, bedraggled 34583-03 module from the firewall of a 'Burb - front clip long-removed - back in ought five, performed the above routines, installed it, and it is still interfacing PCM to DS4 on my truck, today.

Try it - you'll like it.............

[billschall]

Thanks JD. Will check the transistor bolts on both modules after I get another tube of Arctic Silver tomorrow, then weatherproof per your instructions.

It would seem that you have some experience with these things. So, I gotta ask: are the transistors notorious for working themselves loose which then opens the circuit? Or are there other issues internally that cause failure?

[gmctd]

The failures are caused by the wide thermal swings encountered in the engine bay, and heat-soak at shutdown - causes the epoxy potting compound to settle, resulting in reduced clamping tension of the module-to-'sink screws and the transistor-driver nuts.

Have been some reports that new modules are being shipped, requiring re-torquing of the nuts - best to check it out when a new one is purchased.

Difficult to say about internal failures - most failures have loosened stainless fasteners, where the replacer knows to check that out - and the module is potted, which causes some difficulty in testing at component level.

Bill Heath offers the only 7-year warranty in the world, on his assembly which is mounted outside the engine bay, low front of the truck.

That would seem to indicate that getting the module out of the engine bay is the solution.

[hayhauler69]

http://www.apogeekits.com/peltier_device.htm

Is this what yer talkin' about?

[moondoggie]

Good Day!

What gmctd said. A Peltier cooler would be maybe 10.0 on the cool scale, 0.0 on the necessary scale. Just get it out from under the hood etc. as described above.

If you're gonna do a Peltier anyway, get it chromed & flamed so it looks even cooler. Hey, LOTS of stuff we do to our trucks is just because we can, right? ;)

All the best; let us know how it comes out either way. :)

Blessings!

[DmaxMaverick]

The Peltier is an excellent method of moving heat. However, I'd have to see it work on an FSD. You would still have to get it out from under the hood. The delta-T would be the deciding factor, it has to have a place to dump the heat before it could move more. Also, I don't think the size and capacity you are looking at will have the capacity to handle the BTU's involved. Computer chips, perhaps, but although they get hot (really hot), they are very small, comparitively. The Peltier wattage would have to be similar to the wattage required to create the heat in the first place, which may not be a good idea on a mobile platform. It would be like running two FSD's, simultaniously, and they're relatively thirsty. I've had experience with them in computers, and they usually require their own power supply. The computer power supplies won't run the cooler and computer, in most cases. A high capacity external supply is required to pull it off. Internals will shed heat the cooler will have to address, which is a snowball in motion.

[Robyn]

I mounted mine down on the front skid pan that swings down exposing the radiator and the front of the engine.
Its a lot cooler down there and it's well protected from the elements.
The temp swings are not as wide and there should be a fair amount of air moving through.
Takes a 5 foot extension cable though.

My 95 dually has the unit on the top hat of the manifold but that is gonna change soon.

Too bloody hot up there under the hood.:eek:
Mount the sucker over on the AC accumulator on a custom heat sink, That should keep it cold enough when its hot out, he he he :D

[Kennedy]

I'm of the opinion that in some cases we could mount the FSD inside a freezer and it would still fail. Mounted to the intake though is destined to fail unless intercooled.


That said, I've been working on my own Kennedy Cooler with a larger design, better mounting orientation, and some direct to heat sink cooling for the transistors. I have a fair number of these out now and am anxiously awaiting the long term results...

[billschall]

JK, you're probably right on the failing in the freezer too -- and a cryogenic cooler would probably be too inefficient, huh...

I like your idea of direct heat sinking the transistors - thought about that little issue when I installed my '07 model FSD this year. Would be very interested in the results of your cooler design as they come in. Hell, if you'd like another guinea pig to try it on, lemme know -- at this rate, what do I have to lose?

I read up some more on how those Peltier's work, and your right DMAX, I'd probably have to have a generator in the bed just to run the thing.

So, if I don't' somehow mount the cooler over there by the condenser, or outta the engine room as Robyn & JD suggest, I'll have a cryogenic cooler and diesel-powered generator mounted in the bed just to keep 6" square of poorly designed electronics from self-destructing every eight months or so.

And yes Moondoggie, those items will be adorned with Chrome & Flames.:D

[moondoggie]

Good Day!

Now that's what I'm talking about!!!!! ;)

Blessings!
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