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Bob's 6.5TD
12-08-2004, 11:00
everything seemed wonderful after replacing PMD w/cooler and then new wastegate solenoid. Then this week I started it up drove 1/2 mile noticed I was losing power as I continued to accelerate heavy black smoke started coming out and quickly lost all power and died. When I tried to start it back up it would hardly crank. Finally got it pulled off the street and when I started it up again, after slow and very difficult cranking it started with heavy black smoke and acted like was choking to death and then it died when I tried to start it again it would barley turn over but wouldn't start. So then I switched back to my old PMD thats still on the pump, checked all electrical connections recharged the batteries and same out come, barely would crank, started once again with HBS and died. At somepoint in tring to get it to turn over I heard noise like a belt squealling so I took the fan belt off thought maybe something was locked up, no change hard crank and no start, took batteries off and had them tested they tested good. Now I don't know what to do next please advise, Thanks again for all your previous help, Bobby

AndyL
12-08-2004, 11:15
Somewhat weird. Almost sounds like the fuel solenoid is stuck open!

markrinker
12-08-2004, 11:20
I'd suggest that you may have spun a crankshaft bearing. That would explain both the power loss under throttle during the last running condition, the subsequent hard cranking/starting you are now experiencing, and the squeeling sound that sounds like a belt slipping.

Hope I am wrong, but I'd venture you'll find the block webs cracked and bearing failure followed due to misalignment. In my case, the crankshaft broke, but the last few minutes of operation were similar to the loss of power you describe, and the hard cranking that followed.

markelectric
12-08-2004, 13:16
Current oil level? Maybee turbo sucked the oil out?

Bob's 6.5TD
12-09-2004, 10:14
Thanks for your replies. In response I decided to go check the oil level. Obviously with the truck just sitting the oil level has settled, but I noticed when I took the dipstick out, up a little higher than the oil level indicator marks, something appeared kinda gritty looking when rubbed it between my fingers I notice it was fine metal flakes. Unless someone tells me that could possibly be normal, I strongly suspect the worst. Therefore, what is the best way to gain verification of suspected damage, and what is the best and most economical way of repairing or replacing this engine? any suggestions? Thanks Again Bobby

JohnC
12-09-2004, 11:36
I suppose you could drop the oil pan and have a look-see, but I'm betting it'll be a waste of time and I think if it were mine I'd yank the engine first. I'm guessing you'll have to do it eventually, might as well get it over with... :(

Bob's 6.5TD
12-09-2004, 15:35
I see on the internet a lot of websites selling New OEM engines that I put my turbo and stuff back on ect. as well as remanufactured. I'm a little afraid of remanufactured engines, I once bought bought a Chevy small block 400 short block with 12k mile warranty. The crank broke at 14k. But I heard that there been a lot of improvement in remanufactured engines these days. So what you think new or remaned?

markrinker
12-09-2004, 16:26
My approach with my #2 truck that broke a crank at 123K was to buy a used 60K mile engine, transmission, and rear end out of a 1998 wreck. With shipping included, the total package came to about $4,200. I sold the tranny and rear end for $1200, leaving $3,000 in the motor and 'all accessories'.

I have over 30K miles on this motor since the swap, and its running well. I did 3" exhaust, chip, gauges and used the 1998 GM-8 turbo as well. The newer cooling system also came as part of the package.

There were a few accessories (crank pulley, crunched valve cover & one rocker arm) that had to be replaced, but all in all, I am glad with my decision this approach.

JohnC
12-10-2004, 08:50
Originally posted by Mark Rinker:
My approach with my #2 truck that broke a crank at 123K was to buy a used 60K mile engine, transmission, and rear end out of a 1998 wreck. With shipping included, the total package came to about $4,200. I sold the tranny and rear end for $1200, leaving $3,000 in the motor and 'all accessories'.51K mile engine for less! (http://members.aol.com/gmc65td/93gmc/)

asabadin
12-10-2004, 18:27
well i just purchase my drop in from international diesel ltd here is the link

http://www.65ldiesel.com/page/page/469414.htm

because of all the great advice i have recieved from other members i got a complete 01-04 rebuilt 6.5 with the gm-8 and all the upgrades that go along with a newer engine better and stronger block casting, gm-8 turbo, the standard cooling upgrades for that year. i verified the casting numbers and they match. the guy i dealt with even mounted an extra pmd on the manifold as a spare just in case. The only thing that is rebuilt on the engine is the injection pump, motor and turbo. everything else is new injectors, sensors everything . ceramic coated pistons and re sleaved heads come standard.

the total price with shipping minus my core deposit is 4335.00 warrzanty is 1 year umlimited miles

markrinker
12-11-2004, 08:27
That is an excellent buy. Hope that it rocks for you.