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BorJansson
06-12-2007, 04:28
Hi !

I have just received military green 6,2l diesel for a check before final deal.
The engine have some rust on the block, injectors, fuelpump w. a simple position sensor, quite new FRAM PH5 oilfilter (?), waterpump, space for "lot of belts" on the beltwheels, no cap in oil fill pipe, no air cleaner, no vacuum pump.

A question to You guys with military 6,2l experience.
First examination:
- what to look for ?
- what to open and check ?

BorJan
Buick STW-89 w. 6,5l diesel + TH 700-r4
Lat: N 60

moody
06-12-2007, 07:42
How far down can you take it when you check it.
Can the oil pan come off?
Can the heads come off?
I would pull the oil pan as a minimum and look for cracks in the block around the main bearings. With the pan off you can get some idea of cylinder piston ware.
You understand that this has porbably been set up for 24V usage and a few things will have to be changed on that end?

What are you planning on doing with it?

BorJansson
06-12-2007, 13:22
Oil pan will go off.
Valve covers will go off.
I will also try a "leak down" test.
24VDC, round connections for injection pump and glow plugs.
There are few, if any, positive comments in threads about military surplus engines ??

Some engine data:
1985 Model year Heavy Duty Diesel.
Eng Family FGM06-2DAB0
Model-V8-6:2 (3087-7199)
Detroit Diesel
Allison Div.
GM Corporation USA 23500301

On a separate label.
Repaired (as required) by S.L
11 88
9612
DMA Albany

BorJan
Old PAN:s never die.

moody
06-12-2007, 15:48
there are some good stories out there and some bad. but you know... bad news travels fast.
Every indiviual engine will have its own story. Some came out between 10 and 40 k-miles because the US army was going to 6.5td an everything. Now if the engine ce from a Stateside truck that was not ideled out it will be fine. If it came from a Irac truck that was run to death in the sand...not so good.


Some of the moderators or more expirenced guys will be able to ttell you what to look for better than I can.
can.

DmaxMaverick
06-12-2007, 16:06
There were no HMMWV 6.2L engines pulled because they were being replaced with 6.5's, for the sake of upgrading them. The 6.5L upfits were done as the 6.2's were pulled for replacement, due to failure or maintenance cycle. Anyone telling you otherwise doesn't know, or has an agenda. There were exceptions, but they were rare, and bear no consistency.

NH2112
06-12-2007, 17:07
All humvee engines spend the majority of their life idling. In the field they're run from position to position and often left running to power the radio or just to run the heater for whoever's sleeping inside. For the most part, they're not run very hard, and if there's one thing in a military 6.2l's favor it's the fact that the humvee cooling system is enormous. You really have to work to overheat a humvee.

I think the leakdown test and a careful inspection of the main webs are all that's necessary. Head cracks can be fixed so the head's good as new, and I've even heard of a few 6.2s with main web cracks being stop-drilled and going another 100K+ without being babied.

tom yuenkel
06-13-2007, 10:10
My experience with two of these engine has been rust pitting on the cylinder walls because of how the motor was stored after removal, i assume rain water got in it. The second motor was a warranty replacement that I completely diassembled to inspect and rebuild. I did notice my second motor came with the intake manifold capped off to prevent entry of water and was very close to being rust free

sparky196969
06-13-2007, 20:04
I have one in my van so far so good, have put about 20,000 miles on it to date.

I will be replacing the inj & pump soon.

I had to replace the oil pan and oil pump pick up to be able to install in van .

new water pump, high out put and new fan and cluch high out put

a/c works real good on them hot days 95 to 100

i used all the old stuff off the 6.5 that was on the van .

neo
06-26-2007, 20:44
I just bought one recently and found it would not turn 360d on the crank. Did not expect much for 80 bucks, but hoped (and DID!!) get a good block from it. Does the crank turn over all the way, preferably two complete cycles? That is (IMO) the first thing I do to try to guess at the innards.
My last engine had a crack along web 4 main so I trashed it. This block (that did not crank over) had two severely spun bearings on cyl's one and two. Worst I had ever seen. I completely disassembled it and sent it to the machine shop for ballance/blueprint. Hope to build one that will last as long as the truck. Good luck with it. Keep us posted.