anti-seize on wheel studs?

[Dusty Trails]

I know this issue has been addressed in the past, but I'm wondering what the current word is on it. I've heard "yes" and "no" regarding anti-seize on wheel studs. I was thinking of applying a very small amount to keep my nuts:D from rusting to the studs. If this is OK, what is the current percentage of torque reduction that people are going with for the wheel studs? If it is not OK, or if I could run into problems with the warranty, please let me know. Thanks.
Keith

[SoTxPollock]

Don't know about the warranty. The problem is in keeping the nut torque constant unless the threads are dry. I too wonder what the coefficient of friction of steel and never sieze is. If you knew that you could calculate the reduced torque required to tighten the wheel properly, but I would think you'd have to constantly monitor the torque to insure that they wern't coming loose. That stuff is pretty slick. If you don't come up with an answer, I can look up something in an Engineering handbook when I get some time.
I know the steel on steel is like 0.45., but seel on never sieze???
The only true way to know for sure would be to measure the stretch of the stud stock and then duplicate the stretch with never sieze, but that takes some nice equipment to do the measurements.

[kaylabryn]

I have always used never seize on lug nuts with none ever coming loose. I usually only drop 10% on the torque which may not be enough. As far as coming loose I have always thought of the bolts on the mains of a engine. Most people put a grease or just motor oil on those bolts and they do not come loose and the bottom end of an engine has a lot of vibration.

[Jake99Z71]

I have used Anti-seize on all my vehicles and never had a wheel come loose.

[Idle_Chatter]

I've been using never-seez on my lugs and on the wheel-hub interface for over 5 years and 100,000 miles and never had a loosening or other problem. I started using it after the rear wheel (OEM PYO aluminum rim) FROZE to the iron hub and I couldn't get a flat tire off to change it. Lugs on the aluminum rims should be torqued to 140 lb-ft. With lubrication on the lugs, you should reduce torque about 10-15%, I use 125 lb-ft. It's always a good idea to recheck torque after about 3 days or 150 miles. I just removed my mounted winter tires and installed my mounted summer tires a couple weeks ago, finally got around to checking torque last night and there was no movement on any of the 32 lugs at 125 lb-ft.

[DmaxMaverick]

You'll get mixed recommendations here, and GM recommends dry. I use anti-seize and torque to 120#. Never loose or torque loss. 15% is correct for the torque reduction. If you have doubts of the torque, use a Plasti-gage. I did. 120# wet was dead on with 140# dry.

[SoTxPollock]

YES, the key is correct torque. I too have used never sieze on rod bolds, main bolts and head bolts with no failures. Lot of guesses on how much to reduce the torque number, DmaxMaverick has the right idea. You measure to know for sure.

[Dusty Trails]

Great! Thanks, all, for the replies. I used to have a 3/4 T Suburban, and its lug nuts got a little rusty and would "hang" a bit when I torqued them down. I never knew whether I had the correct torque, or not. That's why the anti-seize idea appealed to me. Next question: How much anti-seize do I apply to the studs?

[Idle_Chatter]

Don't go crazy - a thin film is all you need, I usually wipe the brush on the rim of the jar until there's just enough to fill the brush bristles and then apply a thin and uniform film to the entire threaded portion of the stud. It doesn't take a lot and too much will just glob up, trap road grime and make handling the wheel and lug nuts messy.

[Dusty Trails]

Idle,
I placed a drop of anti-seize about 1/3 the size of a pea inside each nut, ran them down and back, then checked for coverage. Looked good, just enough to put a light film on the threads. I torqued the nuts to 120 lb-ft and will check them after I go to town.

Hopefully, that will work. Thanks, everybody, for your replies.

[Robyn]

Very good choice :D

Beats the heck out of siezed nuts and snapped off studs.

Robyn

[Turbo Al]

YES also put it on the steel hub to aluminum mag contact area, you would not believe how many of these wheels I have to pry off!! (Tow truck driver) very hard to get off without damaging the rim. IF they are stuck on (rim to hub) the best thing to do is loosen the lug nuts A LITTLE then slowly drive a short distance while gently applying the brakes on and off -- DON'T over do it.
Al

[Dusty Trails]

2500 miles later, I still have to retorque about a third to half of the lug nuts every week. They're not terribly loose, but they are not the 120 lbs-ft I set them at, either. I'm thinking I might pull the wheels off, wipe the anti-seize off the studs, and give that a try.

[Turbo Al]

Also put never sieze on the contact points between The Aluminum rims and the steel hub. If you don't they will be a real bear to get off at some point -- usally on a muddy road past midnight and pouring rain. I have actually had to use the stinger on the tow truck twice just to get them broken loose. Stinger + block of wood = push sideways on rim.
Al