Is the Turbo-Master the cure all????

[aquaman0001]

Suburban gave the 0236 code. Replace WGS and everything was good for awhile then the Suburban starting loosing boost at around 2000RPM while on the interstate. Started wiggling the vacuum harness between the WGS and the actuator and now the truck buckles and hesitates bad. So before I replace the harness, or actually buy the turbo sensor (0236 code), or try to search for a vacuum leak. I was wondering, will the Turbo-Master fix all these issues?
Thanks
A

[hayhauler69]

I prefer to control the electronic trucks via the OE vacuum system and my TD-Max performance chip. This chip will allow more of an adaptive boost level due to compensation for changes in atmospheric pressure. The OE system can also provide an improved spool up under quick acceleration as the Turbo Master will open at the set back pressure while the OE system will reference boost pressure only. If your OE vacuum system is failed and economics are an issue, then a Turbo Master is the clear choice." - JK

https://www.kennedydiesel.com/

Fix your problem with the stock items if you can.
The chip is an extra of course, but Mr. Kennedy knows what he's talking about.

Started wiggling the vacuum harness between the WGS and the actuator and now the truck buckles and hesitates bad. So before I replace the harness,
You can get a new vacuum harness at the above link also.
Buzz

[keplinger78]

Hello,
It says its for a GM 1-4. I have an 8 that I might use later will it work on that turbo also? what is the difference in the GM 3 and the GM 8 other than the waste gate control???Is one better???

Thanks Tom K.

[Hubert]

The Turbo Master is not a cure all. It simply and effectively holds the wastegate closed to control boost via spring pressure. It won't fix anything else ie sensor or other non wastegate related vaccum problems. It is a good product and I use it. There are several arguements for either wastegate control system. Aquaman I think from your signature you have a "S" engine (EGR is controlled by vaccum). So you'll still need a good working vaccum system. I have a "F" engine and no EGR so the Turbo Master made more sense for me than figuring what was wrong with my OE vaccum wastegate control.

[aquaman0001]

I have an "F" engine.
That is why I am looking at the TM.
I could by the vacuum harness and
boost sensor but for the cost I could
just go with the TM.
But if it does not fix the boost sensor
issue(0236 code), I just might
stay with the stock config.
Can you test the boost sensor?
A

[Robyn]

You need to sort out the issue with the truck first.
The vacuum system is not all that complicated to repair.
There are two lines that run across the engine, one goes from the vacuum pump to the WGS on the left valve cover and the second runs from the WGS to the wastegate actuator on the turbo.

These are plastic lines and come as a set from GM
You can replace them with rubber vacuum hose if need be, just be sure to get them hooked up correctly.

A leak can be found easily in this setup.

Use a vacuum gauge and check the pump first. (26" HG and steady)
Check the line coming to the WGS (26" HG and steady)
Check at the actuator too, should be (26"HG and steady) these numbers are taken at an idle.

If the pump reads low and or the reading is wiggly the pump is shot.
If the reading is only low at the Wastegate then its either the solenoid is NG or there is a leaky line.

Rule out the pump, solenoid and lines and then the sensor can be looked at.
The sensor is so easy to replace that to test it is not worth it in my book.
If its getting flakey it may read good for a while then go away once things get warmed up good.

The boost sensor is the black rectangle box that sits atop the intake air hat. Make sure the electrical connections are good too.

Two little screws and the sucker is in your hand, toss in the general direction of the trash can and bolt on a new one. :D

These are plastic and yours probably has many many miles on it and needs to be replaced anyway.

The sensors used all across these engines are (IMHO) of low quality as compared to the stuff used on the BIG diesels.

I would also toss in an air temp sensor too. (screws into the air hat also and made of brass)

These little fellows are not terribly expensive but ned to be in good order or the system is going to work poorly and yor SES light will drive you nuts.

When working according to design these systems work well to deliver very good drivability.

If you run all this down and still have issues then its time to look at the wiring runing from the WGS to the ECM/PCM

A turbo master will handle the turbo just fine but if the computer (PCM/ECM) is not seeing the signals its programed to see then things are going to continue to be sour in River City.

Unfortunately there is no easy way around this setup.

The systems have become so complex that unless you are prepared to do some serious design changes and heavy duty mods to the truck the issue at hand is not going to go away.

Adding aftermarket goodies to these trucks is a great thing but the overall health of the original system is paramount for things to work correctly.

Go back several years to a time when the 6.5 had a DB2 IP and you could get arround many of the little anoyances of the electronic maze fairly easy but no more.

Run down your real trouble and then maybe look at a better exhaust and possibly a chip to wake up the little creature that lurks under the hood.

Good luck and keep us posted.

Robyn

[aquaman0001]

Robyn,
Great info, thanks!. I will run out to the local automotive store
and get a vacuum gauge. Does the gauge attach to the
vacuum lines easily? What did you use to attach the gauge
to the lines? Is the actuator arm moving and holding up
not a good indication of vacuum?
A

[hayhauler69]

Get one at the auto parts store.
They usually come in a kit form with various connectors supplied.
The gauge is a good trouble shooting aid and worth the 30.00 bucks.
Buzz

[aquaman0001]

Hello,
What is the best method to access the vacuum line at the vacuum pump?
A

[hayhauler69]

What I did was just pull the line off at the WG solenoid, plug the gauge line into it, that's the tan or whitish line. The black line goes to the waste gate actuator.
You can just pull off the line there to read the vacuum, which should be a steady 15 inhg.
Good luck I'll check back in a while too see how you doin'.

[aquaman0001]

Should have been more clear.
The truck is 8 years old and has some miles.
I am going to replace the vacuum harness.
So I am trying to figure out how to unhook the
line from the vacuum pump to install the new one.
I will install an inline vacuum gauge for future
troubleshooting pre-WGS.
Thanks
A

[hayhauler69]

Looks to me that the line comes up from the pump on the inboard side towards water pump. Line from pump is maybe quarter inch and it reduces down to the hard line there. Make sure engine is cool:eek: Cause it's hot there! if not!
Sure it'll just pull off with a sure tug.
Buzz

[aquaman0001]

If I follow the line from the WGS to the pump, the line just disappears into the abyss. I see the pump, but I do not see where the vacuum line and pump meet.
A

[hayhauler69]

I'm assuming that you have A/C.
Unless at sometime in the past the line was re-routed it should come up from the vacuum pump on the inside (inboard) of the air conditioner pump. The vacuum line is a hard (plastic or such) line about an 1/8" + in diameter. You do have two lines going into your WG solenoid one black and one sort of white, right?

[aquaman0001]

Yes, AC.
The lines are black and orange.
Black to the actuator and orange toward the
pump. Yeah, the first time I saw the lines,
I thought they were wire(for current).
They are covered by a plastic sleeve that
is broken in several spots.
When I look at the pump I see a black
hose coming off it but cannot see where it leads.
Can I access the pump from bottom of the truck.
I cannot see how, but maybe there are items I need
to remove to access the pump.
A

[hayhauler69]

There's a rock guard plate with four bolts, maybe a plastic cover under radiator.
Not sure if you have a fan shroud that would be in the way.
G' luck...........

[aquaman0001]

I have removed the rock guard before.(PMD local)
Hopefully I can get a better view of the pump
and the vacuum line there.
Thanks
A

[Shikaroka]

There should only be one line (hose) running to the vacuum pump. There is a short piece of rubber hose (about an inch or so) comming off the pump, that the hard plastic line plugs into. If you can't see it, maybe yours has come off and that's your problem.

[Robyn]

If the pump is in good shape it should pull 26" hg

If it wiggles around it means there is trouble with the pump

The arm and other parts will move even with low vacuum but the turbo will not develop proper boost as the waste gate will blow open if the vacuum is low.

The computer pulses the vacuum via the WGS once the boost reaches max pressure so the waste gate can open slightly and keep the boost in the sweet spot. (Well at least where the designers want it)

Robyn

[moondoggie]

Good Day!

I must be the only one of us that replaced these plastic lines with soft copper from the local hardware store. ;)

aquaman0001: You don't have to hit "Enter" or "Return" when the text you're typing hits the right edge of the box, it'll wrap itself. This will make your posts shorter vertically. (Please ignore if it was your wish to have them as they are & accept my apology - no intention of telling you or anyone else what to do, eh? :D )

Blessings!

[aquaman0001]

Went to advanced and autozone....
Both places did not have a stinking vacuum gauge.
Figures

[hayhauler69]

http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product?storeId=10101&Pr=p_Product.CATENTRY_ID%3A2008137&TID=231000000&TID=231000000&productId=2008137&catalogId=10101

JC Whitney sells it cheaper than what I got it for, but not sure what the shipping cost is.
Buzz

[Shikaroka]

Do you have a Harbor Frieght in your area?
Vacuum Gauge (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93547)

[aquaman0001]

Picked one up off Ebay....
Hopefully it will be here soon.

[rtphillips370]

You need to sort out the issue with the truck first.
The vacuum system is not all that complicated to repair....
Robyn


I have a similar problem... My turbo at approximately 65-75+MPH which is in the high 2000's RPM on the tach, the turbo will slow to a stop, no pressure on the gauge and no whistle. Some times when I slow down and on two occasions when starting from a dead stop the turbo does not come back at all. I have stopped again from approximately 20 MPH and started over and the turbo will come back up as it should.

I have checked the vacuum at the waste gate at idle and it bounces feverishly between 21-22" of vacuum. I have plugged in the gauge to the line from the pump, but my gauge only goes to 26" of vacuum and it stays pegged at idle, no bouncing needle.

Any ideas where to look? I have purchased Kennedy's WSG and new vac lines and considering a new pump and possibly a new sensor in the intake tube, as soon as I figure out the exact name of that sensor, since the local parts store cant find it in their books, I thought it was a MAF or MAP sensor...

I even have the TD-MAX turbo controller from Kennedy and no matter where i set the adjustment screw, there is no difference in performance, the only difference is approx 3 PSI between removing it from the truck and when it is installed.

Can you point me some pointers?