Bleeder valve

[emegg]

I purchased a bleeder valve from Lubrication specialists, and it allowed me to finally get primed and running. I am however losing prime after about 6-8 hours. Most times, I can use the primer pump, but 3 times, I had to put a siphon on the bleeder valve to get it primed again. Does anyone have any experience with these bleeder valves? How hard should I tighten the bottom part and should I use teflon tape on the top part?
Thanks in advance.

[Dakster]

My first question would be are you sure that you are losing your prime at the bleeder and not somewhere else?

[emegg]

not really, but I have checked the fuel filter seals and they are good/not pinched or rolled, there was just a little play in the bleeder valve, so I am thinking that might be it, but I do not want to torque down on it until I know for sure it should be tight. (And the original bleeder screw is beyond retrieval.)

[DmaxMaverick]

Dry the threads and use tape or paste to seal it. Do not get any tape/paste on anything inside but the threads.

[JohnC]

Teflon tape is for plumbers. Don't use it on anything where contamination is an issue. When you disassemble a joint made with Teflon tape, the tape turns into tiny strings of Teflon that are impossible to get out without risk.

[DmaxMaverick]

I agree, John.

However, the bleeder is on the dirty side of the filter. I'd be more concerned with solvents in paste contaminating or breaking down, but that's never been an issue, either. Paste will ball up and crumble, which IMO, can be as bad or worse than teflon strings. Due diligence and sound procedure will prevent either situation.

OK, that said.....
Lubespecialist's bleeder kit pretty much eliminates the contamination issue in regards to the above if installed correctly. The adapter that threads into the filter assy is gasket sealed. The valve (NPT) threads into the adapter, and this should be done off the filter assy, then the valve/adapter threaded into the bleeder hole. NO sealant of any type should be needed to seal the adapter into the filter assy, just a clean surface.

[emegg]

Ok, talked to Lubrication specialists and they said they used pipe dope. However, I used the teflon tape for now on the top half of the assembly, tightened it off the filter assembly and then installed the whole thing. I was also told to tighten the valve a couple of times with pliers to get it to seat just right. Did all the above, and am not losing prime anymore.

[Kennedy]

The OE bleeder is one of the most misunderstood under rated parts of the fuel system. It's so dirt simple and you don't need tools. Just finger tighten and the oring will do it's job. The only tool that I use when I change my filter is my WIF sensor wrench. The filter is held and installed hand tight as is the bleeder.