WHAT ARE THE BEST MODS TO DO WHILE REBUILDING MY MOTOR?

[asabadin]

I WILL MOST LIKELY BE REPLACING MY MOTOR INCLUDING THE TURBO(COMPLETE DROP IN) WHAT ARE SOME MODS I CAN DO THAT WILL IMPROVE THE LOGEVITY AND PERFORMANCE OF MY NEW ENGINE. THE MOST IMPORTANT THING TO ME IS RELIABILITY AND UNDER STRESS PERFORMANCE I.E TOWING, HOT & COLD WEATHER , LONG TRIPS. THIS RIG MUST BE DEPENDABLE!!! IT WILL BE MY FAMILY VEHICLE FOR MY WIFE MOSTLY. NEEDS MODS THAT WILL SAVE ME MONEY IN THE LONG RUN AND ALSO INCREASE THE LIFE OF MY NEW ENGINE, HOPFULLY SOMEWHERE IN THERE WILL INCLUDE ADDED POWER. LET ME KNOW GUYS PLEASE BE SPECIFIC WITH BRAND AND ALL. THANK YOU

[markrinker]

Wow. Interesting question - with many possible answers. Have you established a budget? My advice would be to come up with the budget independent of the legal claim. That way, if you are left holding the bag, you won't be suprised. If a check shows up in the mail someday, it will be a windfall, not already spent...

Knowing what you intend to do with the truck is critical. Since your wife will be driving it, you need it to be reliable and turn-key. This is not hard to accomplish, AND have a monster towing machine when you need it.

If you want to glean max HP/TQ for towing, you may want to investigate one of Pennisular Diesels high performance 6.5s. Check out their website for details.

If reliability is what you seek, then a crankshaft stud girdle (helps eliminate stress cracking) and timing gear set (replaces chain set prone to stretching over time) would be highly recommended for 'stock' 6.5 setups.

With either approach, external bolt-ons will greatly improve performance. Standard approach is a perforannce chip for better fuel delivery, performance turbo for better air flow, and an air-to-air intercooler.

This seems to be the best way to make MORE POWER and keep engine reliability there by reducing EGTs while towing.

Since the old engine will be out, intercooler installation should be much easier. Many people have posted their installations here on the DP.

Good luck and we are all 'pullin' for you!

[grape]

bolt in a cummins

[Keith Richards]

No offense taken,but this is not exactly the best forum for that reply.My truck has been super dependable,and worked hard.

[asabadin]

no post hi-jacking. I am looking for solutions to a "real world application". Not really looking to build a contraption. hopfully someone with some"real" answers will step up. thanks to all the members with helpful knowledge so far

[rjschoolcraft]

It would help to know what year truck you're working on. For starters, read about the Project Truck over on the content side of the Diesel Page. The things I've done to mine have helped reliability, longevity and POWER. Aside from my truck being electronic and the Project Truck being mechanical, the basic recipe is similar. I have not done 18:1 compression yet, though.

[cruzer]

Port match intake and head ports and alter upper intake per Kennedy's web site. Also Pump and injectors should be considered. 97 cooling. to start. Most things are bolt on.

[BUZZ]

How about a balance of the rotating assembly?
Buzz

[Bobbie Martin]

For maximum reliability, get rid of the DS4 and fit a DB2 pump!

[JoeyD]

The Cummins is a very good option and far from a contraption. If simplicity and reliability are your goals as well as towing power, you can't go wrong. Lets look at it this way, set up a budget number and see what it costs to drop in a penn turbo motor or a +complete 18 to 1 comp motor with all the fixings. Add up the labor unless you can do it yourself, then call fordcummins.com and see how far off you are from the common rail 5.9 swap they do. I bet it is a close call as far as finall $ spent.
This however is just an option that was mentioned incase you are not aware of things like that, remember when help was appriciated?

[john8662]

Contraption? A Cummins is certainly a Contraption when installed in a Chevy. The problems with installing a Cummins is that the vehicle is meant for a V8, so its designed for the engine to be the same length of a 4 banger. The cummins (at least the 6bt) is 6 large cylinders and is a rather long engine. Once you do it, there is no going back, and it becomes a definite contraption. I sure wouldn't want to go to the parts store, tell them that "I have a 1995 Chevy" What engine "5.9 Cummins", you'll sure get an odd look from the parts guy. Besides the Cummins 5.9 is best suited for what it came in, a DODGE (Don't Over Do Garbage Equipment) ;) I'm not here to brag about the 6.5, thats for sure, but thats what these trucks come with.

I'm personally going to build my own engine, with using my local machine shop for machine work, and probably buy parts from Avant and other vendors on here.

You basically have two options on the 6.5TD in a 1995 model as far as building the engine.

1. Build a quality engine thats has stock compression (21 to 1) but incorporates a stud girle kit and timing gear set, as well as new stock injectors.

2. Build a more powerfull and durable 6.5TD, step up to the 18:1 compression ratio, marine injectors, stud girdle kit, timing gears, do the porting, finish it up with a strong chip.

Besides engine, you'll want to consider an exhaust system (a must, but don't do the 4" setup, go with 3.5") and free flowing air filter. You have other options, intercooler, different turbo, etc.

It all depends on $.

Contact Avant Engine builders, get a quote, also browse Kennedy's engine offerings.

[asabadin]

NOW THAT WE ARE BACK ON TOPIC MY TRUCK IS A 1995 PLEASE LIST OUT THE MODS YOU GUYS WOULD RECOMMEND. TRYING TO STAY AT UNDER 1000.00 ON EXTRA STUFF ABOVE AND BEYOND THE DROP IN I'TSELF AND LABOR. IF I HAVE AN EXTRA 500-1000.00 TO SPEND HOE WOULD YOU GUYS SPEND IT?

[ees]

When I was changing my headgaskets I got the head sleaved. The 6.5TD heads crack worse than anything I have seen before. The sleaves make sure that cracks don't make it to the water jacket. There is an article somewhere on this site covering how it is done. My machine shop already had a kit to do it. You might shop around to see who has done it before.

-Eric

[CareyWeber]

Balance it

Gear drive

By-pass oil system

[autocrosser]

Cost effective mods are what I am hearing you ask about.

I doubt that balancing the engine would do much for a engine that rarely sees high RPM.

Change the exhaust to a 3.5" and get a replacement down pipe.

Do the cooling mods. Change the fan and you will probably have to change the clutch due to the bolt configuration on the bigger fans. It will still overheat with just the dual thermostat pipe so you need the fan also if you are pulling loads (good size camper etc.) up steep hills.

You probably won't need a intercooler if you do the above cooling mods. You could add water injection or a intercooler if you have money to spend.

Get rid of the vacuum pump usea 93 belt and put a Heath mechanical boost controller on it.

Get a reprogramed chip - big improvement.

Get gauges - boost and exhaust temp at a minimum. If you have the aux transmission cooler you probably don't need to monitor that.

I doubt that you need the high pop injectors - I think they produce wear on the pump and you don't need it unless you are going for max power.

Porting is ok but again not necessary unless you are going for big power at high RPM as air flow isn't that great at normal driving speeds.

If I ever have to tear it down I might go to the 18:1 pistons.

If you do these basic things you'll have a great driving truck. I pull a 8k travel trailer up some pretty big mountains with my 96 and the only thing I haven't done is the fan. I'll be doing it shortly. The biggest improvement was the exhaust and reprogramed computer.

[JoeyD]

What does a drop in complete motor run these days, installed?

[asabadin]

about 5k after the core refund

when you say reprogram the computer does that mean a chip? or something else?

[john8662]

Reprogramming the computer applies to the 96 and up trucks with OBII computers. Your 1995 is OBD1, so you can replace the prom chip in the computer to increase the fuel rate and allowable boost before the computer opens the wastegate on the turbo.

I also forgot earlier about adding the dual thermostat configuration and 180 fan flutch and fan. The new fan clutch that Kennedy sells is awesome, it really cools these engines well.

[JoeyD]

I think you need to get an intercooler 1st for making more reliable power. I know that the chips and reflashes add good power but only till the computer cuts back fuel due to high intake temps.
It will keep you motor cooler while towing and let you fully use the power you have.
5 grand sounds like a deal as far as a new complete motor installed, is that with injection pump and turbo? Where did you get the price?

[CareyWeber]

Originally posted by autocrosser:
Cost effective mods are what I am hearing you ask about.

I doubt that balancing the engine would do much for a engine that rarely sees high RPM.
When Morepower build the Power Project 6.5 he showed some data that showed the amount of power wasted due to vibration. The other benifit is added longevity.

Maybe Morepower still has those numbers and can show them to us again.

Carey

[Arlie]

I'm no expert but have thought a fair bit about this and read a lot here.

If you're serious about durability I would think carefully about using the newly designed block (sometime after 2001?). IMO the primary fundamental flaw of the 6.5 is block cracking, apparently not a problem with the new design. Seems to me stud girdles are a band-aid at best.

The second serious flaw is head cracking. My understanding is this is caused by overheating and not a problem with the cooling upgrade using bigger water pump, dual stats (after 1997?).

From my limited perspective everything else would be secondary to starting with a good foundation.

Just my 2 cents.

Arlie

Edit: Maybe I'm wrong about the head problem being corrected judging by the post by RZRSHARP. Bone stock post '97 engine with cracks between every valve. Not sure if this is common.

[asabadin]

Originally posted by Arlie:
I'm no expert but have thought a fair bit about this and read a lot here.

If you're serious about durability I would think carefully about using the newly designed block (sometime after 2001?). IMO the primary fundamental flaw of the 6.5 is block cracking, apparently not a problem with the new design. Seems to me stud girdles are a band-aid at best.

The second serious flaw is head cracking. My understanding is this is caused by overheating and not a problem with the cooling upgrade using bigger water pump, dual stats (after 1997?).

From my limited perspective everything else would be secondary to starting with a good foundation.

Just my 2 cents.

Arlie

Edit: Maybe I'm wrong about the head problem being corrected judging by the post by RZRSHARP. Bone stock post '97 engine with cracks between every valve. Not sure if this is common. I am instaLLING THE NEWER 97 AND UP ENGINE COMPLETE WITH THE GM-8 TURBO AND DUAL T-STAT SETUP.

DO YOU HAVE THE CASTING NUMBER ON THE BLOCK OF THE 01 AND UP? SINCE IT IS STRONGER FROM WHAT YOU ARE SAYING ANYBODY ELSE HERE SUPPORT THIS IDEA? CASTING NUMBERS WOULD REALLY HELP. I KNOW THE BLOCK I AM GOING TO GET HAS A 509 CASTING NUMBER

[JoeyD]

The best block has the Navistar logo in the valley of the motor. A 97 will not have it. Get a 01 or later.

[rjschoolcraft]

Do a search on block numbers... you'll find a lot of interesting reading.

[john8662]

For using the "new" block, I've noticed Kennedy selling his reman engines using new blocks from AM General for the build.

"Item Name: GM 6.5 Long Block Fully Remanufactured Engine

Category: Engines

Sub-Category: Remanufactured Engines

All engines feature NEW GM/AM General blocks of the absolute latest design! Top quality Mahle pistons and component parts. 12 month, unlimited mileage warranty."

www.kennedydiesel.com (http://www.kennedydiesel.com)

[asabadin]

what does the navistar log look like?

[dstoops]

Hi asabadin,
I was faced with the same dilemma. After 170,000 miles I had a head gasket leak. My son was driving it and didn't realize what the problem was until he had bent a rod trying to restart.
My original block showed some stress cracks in the web area so we found another block that was sound..Just needed a rebore to repair cylinder damage. One head was cracked as well. I'm in agreement with autocrosser on his rec's. I havent removed the vacuum pump yet though. I did go with the 97 cooling (peninsulardiesel.com) and 18-1 pistons. I didnt use the stud girdle though sometimes I wish I had just for peace of mind. My thinking at the time was that the lower compression would reduce stress on the block. I was dealing wih a budget as well. So far I've put 25,000 miles on it. I'm having a minor starting problem (It misses for a few seconds after a cold start) but it runs better than ever. Note other mods on my signature.

[FL_CHEVY]

I was curious where you are finding these blocks. I had a cracked block and I called 38 junk yards, only to find what turned out to be a 6.2block. I wound up boring the 6.2block to a 6.5block.

[Kennedy]

My rebuilder has a contract is the only way. I cannot get just a block, and pretty much anybody who says they can is likely taking them from a scrap bin or something...



Originally posted by FL_CHEVY:
I was curious where you are finding these blocks. I had a cracked block and I called 38 junk yards, only to find what turned out to be a 6.2block. I wound up boring the 6.2block to a 6.5block.