Alternator or Short?

[robertb6963]

Alright, I'm sure this is a very easy problem I've over looked. but anyways...

I just put new injectors in a few weeks ago and the truck ran great till about a week ago. Then I went to start it and no start. I cranked it till it died (maybe 6-8 times). So I tried it again the next day and jumped it, started after a few trys. Drove off and it started running poorly, then died. My volt read about 9, and dipped lower with the blinker on. Runs great while charging off another truck.

The batteries are about 4 months old but have been drained a few times. However, the lights are bright when the truck acts like its dead. Could this be a short somewhere or the alternator or the PMD? If a short what wire would do this? The truck didn't do this before I replaced the injectors.

Don't know the age of the alternator.
Code 45.

Also what is the trick to getting the clamp on the downpipe?


Thanks for all your great help this forum has saved me time and time again.

[sturgeon-phish]

Pull the alternator and have it tested under load like at AutoZone. To replace the band clamp open it up so it will slip around the pipe easier. Also remove the airbox. it will give more room to work.

[robertb6963]

Tested today....15 volts.

Haven't tested batterys yet.

Still have no clue why the gauge shows 9 volts

[cabletech]

Is it possible your glow plugs are staying on? I have a manual switch on mine and have turned them on when engine was running. The voltage dropped way below 12V.

[robertb6963]

Is it possible your glow plugs are staying on? I have a manual switch on mine and have turned them on when engine was running. The voltage dropped way below 12V.

The glow light comes on and you can hear them click off. Also, the truck is running "open-turbo" right now, which I'm sure isn't good for it. Smoke pours out from under the hood but I can't get the clamp on the downpipe to fix it.

[sailun]

Downpipe - the only way I could do it was with a helper supporting the pipe from underneath. Spent an hour w/o a helper, 5 minutes with a helper.

I'm going through the very same electrical issue. No start one night, put on chrger, started in the morning, just fine, then drive somewhere, and no start. Very difficult to even jump start.

Drivers side battery was a half a volt lower than pass side. Replaced it, just because.

Followed Robyn's advice and checked under the rubber boots of the cable connecting the two battery positives. One (driver side) was the green snowstorm of corrosion. Passenger side not so bad. Cut cables back to shiny copper and put on new ends.

Also, on the driver side, do same repair to the lead going to your main fuse block. No more guage bounce at start-up, headlights are brighter. It's a miracle anything worked.

On passenger side, same repair to alternator lead.

This problem is darn near invisible, the boots looked fine, only a faint whisper of dust showing under only one end.

Checked the lead to the starter, looked so good I didn't bother changing.

Batteries are showing 13.0+ volts in the morning now. However, I am definitely cranking slower/longer. Could still be starter cable, or starter is getting tired. Good advice to get alternator and battery tested. Could be all volts, and not enough amps.

I'll try to put up pictures this weekend.

Let me know how you make out. I haven't had any more no starts, but I'm not totally comfortable with mine, yet.

[robertb6963]

Does your truck start running real rough before it dies? Do you think you may be able to out some up-close pics of your alt, it would really help me!

"Chevy should be paying us."-sailun --------soooo true

Robert

[sailun]

Clarification: Truck didn't die, it wouldn't start, dead batteries. Didn't start too quick with jumpers, either.

Here's why: http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/photopost/data/523/small4.JPG

By the way, my truck began to start slower immediately after changing the injectors. I'm guessing that the old inj's dribbled a bit, priming the cylinders for the next start. There was def'ly a dribble mark on one, and maybe two inj's.

OR, they opened sooner under less pressure, letting motor start easier.

Could not really get any good pics of the alt, too much stuff in the way.

Hope it helps someone.

[robertb6963]

Those looked pretty bad! Found mine also: wire from alt to battery was broken but the coating was fine. The truck still hickups every now and then, if I let off the pedal it stops. Runs pretty rough, but it is running open-turbo.

Anything I can check to find out why it runs like this?: low idle(400rpm), hick-ups, and lack of power