Rear wheel horsepower

[Bad Max]

On the Bully Dog monitor, it shows horsepower and torque. Is the horsepower,,rear wheel horsepower or flywheel horsepower?
What about torque?
Bad Max

[More Power]

I'd guess the number is based on some of their dyno work. Generally, power adders add power that adds to some base value, whether that be RW or FW.

Jim

[Mark Rinker]

What numbers are you putting down, according to the BD system?

[Bad Max]

It shows 426 horsepower, it has to be rear wheel horsepower, if it was flywheel horsepower, it should be around 600 flywheel horses or more with Crazy Larry, AFE intake and exhaust. Anyone have the same package on the 07 Duramax LBZ? If you do, what is your readings?
Bad Max

[Mark Rinker]

Are you aware of a handful of LBZ piston failures reported on other diesel websites?

Not to panic, but I think there is a common thread, and today it would appear all these engines were turned up in excess of 150 crankshaft horsepower over stock, or something > 470hp.

If you are truly in the 600hp at the crankshaft realm, you should do some research before continuing. I am all about MORE POWER - but a non-rebuildable engine failure will set you back about 15K in these trucks.

[Bad Max]

Would you direct me to those websites about the LBZ piston failures?
Bad Max

[Mark Rinker]

Try www.google.com and search on the phrase 'LBZ piston failures'.

Is your nearly new LBZ still smoking at idle? Change the oil yet? Remember, Crazy Larry won't get out his checkbook when things go south...and neither should your GM dealer.

[Bad Max]

It does not smoke at stock when I deprogrammed back to stock, it will always smoke a little bit at idle because of the extra fuel from the programmer and the GMAC says to follow exactly when the oil needs to be changed for the first time,,,,at 5,000-6,000 miles or when the oil light comes on.
Bad Max

[JohnC]

... it will always smoke a little bit at idle because of the extra fuel from the programmer and ...

Someone's feeding you bad intel. There's no extra fuel at idle. If there were, it'd idle too fast...

[Bad Max]

Ok, so what would you recommend that I do to stop the smoking at idle?
Bad Max

[Mark Rinker]

My advice would be to return it to stock and drive the truck to 15K miles in that form. Focus on your first lubrication changes, estabishing a regimine of quality synthetics, and regularly changing fuel and spin-on transmission filters.

If the BullyDog module didn't smoke at first, then something has changed with it if the truck doesn't smoke in stock form. Get an RMA#, return it, and get a new one while you are breaking in your truck and setting the stage for 300K miles through good service intervals.

Search the forums here and get the lowdown on break-in fluid change procedures. Read your owner's manual. Get that engine oil and rear differential lube changed...pronto.

[Bad Max]

Rinker, thanks for the advices, let me ask you,,,if the GM owner manual says different from the advices on the forums on the when to change the oil, differential oil, transmission oil, etc,,,,which path do I take?
Why would you want to change the differential oil when the truck has 3200 miles?

What harm would the Bully Dog do if I just have it on the lowest setting(towing setting) and break the motor in?
Bad Max

[Mark Rinker]

There is certainly no harm in changing out oil earlier than the factory recommends. The idea is to get oil that carries fine metallic break-in particles out of the engine as soon as possible.

In the case of the rear-end, there is much more break-in metal as the ring and pinion gears seat against one another. Most here will get the factory fluid out after 500-1000 miles, and again at 5000 miles or so.

It may be overkill, but it certainly can't hurt and its part of the small things you can do to greatly increase longevity of engine and drivetrain.

As for the Bullydog, I am sure that you are safe on a 50hp tow-tune. The smoke at idle bothers me. That is indicative of a leaky or dripping injector. You should be hammering on BD to tell you why this is happening, IMO.

[SoTxPollock]

BADMAX, I suggest you listen to Mark about the fluid changes. Many folks have reported metal particles on the first drain. This is of course up to you and how long you want it to last.
When I built my racing engines, I'd fire the engine and bring it up to the rpm that the cam mfg. recommended and run it for thirty minutes, shut it down and let it cool some time and then drain the oil and change the filter, checking for signs of coolant in the oil or extra fuel etc. I have never gone more than 1000 miles on any new vehicle without changing the engine oil and filter. I know the book doesn't say that, but its good insurance. Fluids are always cheaper than the parts they contact. I believe in changing all the fluids just to be sure everything stays clean. Once you've broken it in you can hammer it all you want and probably not hurt it if you don't boost the power level too high. A side note, I have never yet worn out an engine, with some going well over 300,000 miles and still running strong( but a little noiser).
Keep the fluids clean and you can drive it a long long way even if you do hot rod it. Don't we all?